Liquid emulsion recommendations?

I've become interested in trying to make silver gelatin prints using hand-coated liquid emulsion on paper and am looking for suggestions for the best emulsion to begin with (Note: I'm looking for a commercially available emulsion, I'm not currently interested in making my own).

The most popular commercial products seem to be Liquid Light, Rolei Black Magic, and Adox Polywarmtone. Prices for these products seem to vary widely, from about $50 for Liquid Light and Polywarmtone to $80 for Rolei Black Magic (all approx. 300ml). The Rolei looks interesting because it's the only one that seems to be available in a variable contrast formula, but of course it's the most expensive.

Is one of these products more appropriate for someone trying hand-coating for the first time? Do they all require the paper to be coated with a gelatin first? Are hardeners required to make the emulsion as durable as a manufactured paper like Ilford Multigrade? Paper recommendations would be appreciated as well.

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I have used Liquid Light and Rollei. Liquid light used to not be so great but they improved it when they did away with a premium option named AG+. They all behave the same way coating-wise. You may be deeper blacks with the Rollei. I used a bunch on glass and the darks never really got that dark. They say you can apply two coats but then it takes a long time to fix. You don't have to coat the paper with gelatin first but it will absorb less emulsion if you don't. I used to coat on fabric and it turned out but soaked up a ton. I'm about to coat black paper and am researching how to size, that's why I'm nosing around here.

Pro tips: Only melt what emulsion you are going to use as every time you heat it, you increase risk of fogging. Don't heat emulsion higher than 120 degrees F, 115 is good. Use a double boiler type of set up - make sure the heating element does not directly touch the bottom of the vessel that contains the emulsion because that zone of contact will end up being hotter than 120 degrees. Don't have the safelight too close. Have air circulation when drying and make sure there is no safelight or any light leaks into the drying area during the hours of drying.

When I am about to coat, I cut open the whole plastic container and cut off what I think I'll need. You can try to dig it out of the wider containers, but not the tall Liquid light one. I store the rest in a metal reel tank with lid, in the fridge, taped shut with a sign on it to keep curious people away.

Coating on paper or fabric is the easiest way to get started. Probably sizing will be best. I usually do glass and metal which are more challenging. Good luck!

@seanphotoart on instagram if you are curious

I have started with Foma's emulsion and will stay with it.
Found it a good way to start with success.



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the polywarmtone emulsion tones beautifully in selenium. much prefer anything to liquid liqht due to narrow opening of the bottle. it's so much easier and preferable to scoop out only the emulsion you need and will be melting.

Reginald S said:

I have started with Foma's emulsion and will stay with it.
Found it a good way to start with success.

FOTOEMULSE FOMASPEED N 1 KG | Foto Emulsion |FOMA BOHEMIA e-shop

Fotografische Positivemulsion Verwendung: Holz, Textil, Glas, Porzellan, Metall, Leder, Beton, Putz u.ä. Produktetikett

fomaobchod.cz

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I haven't had a good experience with Foma fiber paper - the emulsion seems very delicate. Not sure I trust their bottled emulsion for the same reason.

bambiwallace said:

much prefer anything to liquid liqht due to narrow opening of the bottle.

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Thanks for mentioning that! Not something I would have otherwise known about before purchasing.

You can squeeze the Liquid Light right emulsion out of the bottle like tooth paste, stick a plastic knife up there and cut it up and squeeze it out, It will be OK. If you use a thin smooth paper like Borden and Reilly found on the pad it will be easy to coat (and cheeper to coat) compared to some sort of fancy shag rug watercolor paper. Use plain old fixer (sodium hyposulfate ) works best. Keep things simple.

logan2z said:

I haven't had a good experience with Foma fiber paper - the emulsion seems very delicate. Not sure I trust their bottled emulsion for the same reason.

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I don't see the connection, really. Nor do I see the problem with Foma fiber paper; I've used many boxes of it of various types, esp. Fomabrom Variant FB glossy and Fomatone MG. Both perfectly fine papers in my experience.

I do recall that some people have complained about problems with staining and/or emulsion flaking around the edges of Foma FB papers. While I've never seen this in person, even if it does occur (I'm not in a position to deny someone else's problem evidently), I don't think it says anything about a liquid emulsion product. In the use of a liquid emulsion, you're entirely in control of hardening, application and hence the robustness of the end result.

koraks said:

In the use of a liquid emulsion, you're entirely in control of hardening, application and hence the robustness of the end result.

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I suppose you’re right, but given my experience with their paper and a friend’s poor experience with the quality of their film, I don’t have much confidence in their products. Maybe it’s worth a try, though.

I'm with Bryan, and with Emil Schildt as an exquisite example, but it's your decision.
Don't expect Rollei's stuff being different, because some years ago it has been Foma emulsion, too.

logan2z if you go to freestyle's short-date-expired-clearance section there are containers of liquid emulsion being sold for very little money. Most likely it is in good condition and will work well and will save you a little money.

ezphotolessons said:

logan2z if you go to freestyle's short-date-expired-clearance section there are containers of liquid emulsion being sold for very little money. Most likely it is in good condition and will work well and will save you a little money.

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Thanks for the suggestion.

One quick question about drying the coated paper:

I don't have a permanent dark space currently setup in my home. My enlarger/dry space is set up in a windowless walk-in closet, but it's a dual purpose space that won't be guaranteed light safe while I'm not working in there. So, I was planning on drying my coated paper in a paper safe, but I see that some emulsion manufacturers warn against drying the paper in a 'box'. The paper safe is light safe but I'm pretty sure it isn't air tight, so I think the paper would dry ok in there. Wondering if it's ok to use a paper safe for this purpose, or if there are better ways to accomplish the drying phase without a permanent darkroom.

I hang up my pop prints on a clothes line in my bathroom...don't overthink this please...don't forget to close the lights and black out the windows!

Peter Schrager said:

I hang up my pop prints on a clothes line in my bathroom...don't overthink this please...don't forget to close the lights and black out the windows!

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Not overthinking it, just trying to figure out something practical for my situation. Both of my bathrooms have large skylights in the ceiling so not so easy to black out. And someone may actually need to use the bathroom while my paper is drying