Limitations of Non-Movment Camera

removed account4 · May 15, 2012

get a baby speed graphic
and a roll film back
you can do rise on the front,
instead of drop on the back ..
they don't sell for much,
and the roll film holders appear
often as well, or u can just dremmel
a 4x5 one to fit ...

cjbecker · May 15, 2012

I was thinking that or getting a vh-r or vh. And using the horseman or baby speed as both the portrait and walk around medium format camera. Or I could just get a 150 for 6x6 and accept the difference. Women would appreciate the affects of a 150 over an 80 for portraits on a 6x6. But still I still have the problem with wide angles on the 6x6.

Mainecoonmaniac · May 15, 2012

I cheap solution is to have a tripod with a rise and fall crank. If you want to get really fancy, you can use a camera stand with lateral capabilities. The Cadillac of camera stands are Swiss made Fobas. They have wheels that you can roll, a smooth operating column a ball bearing arm too. They cost as much as a car.

Old-N-Feeble · May 15, 2012

cjbecker said:
Ok so I have a problem and I need some help with it. Here is a little back ground first. I shoot medium format and large format camera. The medium format camera has no movements and the large format has full movements. This question is geared towards shooting portraits, with a tripod. 3/4 to full body portraits.

For portraits I prefer to shoot eye level, and with the camera Level so I do not get any weird changes in proportions (not sure if thats the right word to use). I’m talking about like the equivalent of tilting a wide angle up and down.

With the large format camera I put the lens at eye level, with the camera level, then drop the back down so it’s composed with the head at the top of the frame.

With the medium format that does not have movements, I put the camera at eye level, and also with the camera level, but then it’s not composed the way that I prefer. The subject is in the bottom of the frame with lots of room above there head. The only way to correct that is but tilting the camera down or lowering the whole camera, but that either makes the proportions wrong, or makes the subject look down at you. Neither that I like.

Is there any way around the problem of framing without a camera with movements?

No, not if you want to... (rightfully, usually)... keep the lens at eye level and parallel to the subject. It's physically impossible without rear rise or front fall. Using a longer lens will deemphasize the distortion you mentioned but worsens compression distortion.

ETA: For 3/4 length portraits I'd prefer a lens focal length of approximately 1.5x the diagonal of the usable (uncropped) area of the film and for full length I'd probably use a normal lens. Actually, a normal lens should work okay for either.

Bill Burk · May 15, 2012

cjbecker said:
Then again the camera is looking up at them.

Yes, the subject's eyes will be aiming over the top of the camera.

I agree with the solution: Rise or fall to change the composition without visually distorting the perspective.

removed account4 · May 15, 2012

do they sell a pc lens for your camera ?
it will solve all your problems,

either that, or make something like
lensbaby with a aux bellows/macro attachment
and remove the rod.

cjbecker · May 15, 2012

jnanian said:
do they sell a pc lens for your camera ?
it will solve all your problems,

either that, or make something like
lensbaby with a aux bellows/macro attachment
and remove the rod.

500cm.

cjbecker · May 15, 2012

Mainecoonmaniac said:
I cheap solution is to have a tripod with a rise and fall crank. If you want to get really fancy, you can use a camera stand with lateral capabilities. The Cadillac of camera stands are Swiss made Fobas. They have wheels that you can roll, a smooth operating column a ball bearing arm too. They cost as much as a car.

Dont see how that would help.

ic-racer · May 15, 2012

This is a common problem with an easy answer. When making the photograph, tilt the camera down and then correct the converging verticals when enlarging. You need an enlarger that has a tilting lensboard, but that should cost much less than a 'shift lens' for your medium format camera.

removed account4 · May 15, 2012

cjbecker said:
500cm.

5000mm lens ???

thats crazy ...

get a lensbaby ... or make your own

Mainecoonmaniac · May 15, 2012

I might have misunderstood you problem

cjbecker said:
Dont see how that would help.

Sounds like you need a view camera with a roll back or a 2 1/4 camera with a PC lens.

cjbecker · May 15, 2012

Hasselblad 500cm

cjbecker · May 15, 2012

I could use my arca swiss model a but it could not use any wider then a 150 with out using recessed lens board. But even then i wont have very much movements.

cjbecker · May 19, 2012

Well through my search, i found the rb67 and also the 75 shift lens. I think it would work but also it looks like it would be hard to find one.

EKDobbs · May 19, 2012

I would consider the GX680 again. I have the RB67 and I feel that even with a shift lens, your movements will be more limited limited. They're also about the same price used if you go for the original GX, and there's no need to go looking for a rare and pricey 75 shift. That, and you can have movements with all available focal lengths. The only reason I wouldn't go for one is the weight (I have no heavy tripods) and the fact that I kinda despise motorized/automatic functions.

cjbecker · May 19, 2012

I have read about them and liked the fuji but i have heard that the batteries and hard to get and the camera is not the strongest, ie electrical.

EKDobbs · May 19, 2012

Understandable. I make a point not to use anything which I think will put me out of commission due to an electrical issue.

Andrew Forrester · May 20, 2012

The Fuji 680 has a full set of movements, so you can use tilt, rise and fall etc and it would solve your problem. There is a 115mm f3.2 lens which is the equivalent of a 50mm lens in 35mm. I prefer the 125mm f3.2 and the 180mm f3.2, oh and they are great optics. It is a beast of a camera but it can be used handheld but I prefer a tripod. I have a pentaprism finder and a Beattie screen and when used in conjunction with Acros I get 5x4 quality. The last model Fuji produced the mkIII is the version to get, its built like a tank and such a versatile camera. I have used it almost exclusively over the past 2 years in preference to my LF cameras.

Limitations of Non-Movment Camera

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency