Lightsphere clones any good??

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Chris Nielsen

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I was looking longingly at the Gary Fong Lightsphere to whack on my SB26 but they're hideously expensive - the local auction site has plenty of clones for sale for 1/4 of the price..

Has anyone tried one of those?? Wondering if they're any good or a total waste of money

Cheers
 

AlexG

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NEVER waste your time and money with a gary fong thing.

They are just pieces of over=priced shit molded plastic.

I spent more than one hundred dollars to get one of his scam domes and it is completely not worth it. The dome does add a ~little~ extra diffusion in the foreground and background but the piece of crap plastic is definitely not worth 150$.

Do yourself a favor and go to ebay and get a cheap imitation. There the same damn things anyways.
 
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Chris Nielsen

Chris Nielsen

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Thanks bro, I will buy a cheapy and see how we go!

Personally though, I can't see how diffused light no matter how diffused could ever be better than getting the flash off the camera and over to the side
 

markbarendt

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Thanks bro, I will buy a cheapy and see how we go!

Personally though, I can't see how diffused light no matter how diffused could ever be better than getting the flash off the camera and over to the side

I'm not a fan of the big diffusers of any brand.

IMHO the magic is the bounce, not the diffuser.

Bouncing, "lights up" a large spot on a wall or ceiling that in turn becomes the light source for your subject rather than any/much light coming directly from the strobe.

The bounce creates "light source" that can be measured in feet rather than inches.
 

removed account4

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I'm not a fan of the big diffusers of any brand.

IMHO the magic is the bounce, not the diffuser.

Bouncing, "lights up" a large spot on a wall or ceiling that in turn becomes the light source for your subject rather than any/much light coming directly from the strobe.

The bounce creates "light source" that can be measured in feet rather than inches.

i agree bouncing is great because it spreads the light like a giant soft box ...
but bouncing works well only in certain situations ---
where the ceiling is low enough or the "bounce-wall/surface" is close enough
or isn't dark or black so it will absorb the light
instead of bouncing it. if you have a TON of light it is good, i suppose.
i switched from a sunpack to lumedyne for location portraits work years ago
because it gave me a lot more light so i could bounce "better", it was less
compact/portable because i had a battery pack around my neck/shoulder
but it worked and didn't give the impression of a flash on camera pointed at my subject
... a lot of the portraits in my gallery ( here and on my website )
were shot using a bounce .. it is as if the flash wasn't there, which sometimes is the point ...

the flash globes are OK ... i have one that lumedyne made for
their 244 flash heads, it is a simple ball, nothing else ...
in a certain situation it works ok, but i always wish i had a pair of big sheet of foam core to bounce both my flashes off of ...

i can't speak of the fong-thingy, but i know people who use and swear by them ...

i guess as they say YMMV

john
 

JBrunner

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Flash diffusers don't actually diffuse anything, they just lower output and create a slightly larger source. Light is light. What persons call "diffused" light is actually just a bigger light source that provides illumination from more directions. If your flash swivels just point it away from the subject towards where you wish a nice big window would be, if the situation is favorable for it.

I have a couple of "diffuser" gadgets. I don't even bring them with me on shoots anymore. The little square ones that stick up about an inch, or the big round ones can be handy for making an even bounce from four walls and a ceiling, but mostly a waste of money aimed at the gadget crowd. Pocket wizards or similar and a light disk to shoot the flash through (making the source larger and off camera) are a much more flexible and better investment.
 
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Chris Nielsen

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I want to get one of those Sto-fen kits I've seen on ebay with white, green and orange versions for shooting under tungsten/fluoro lights, I think that could be handy
 

donbga

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I was looking longingly at the Gary Fong Lightsphere to whack on my SB26 but they're hideously expensive - the local auction site has plenty of clones for sale for 1/4 of the price..

Has anyone tried one of those?? Wondering if they're any good or a total waste of money

Cheers

Don't waste your money on the GF Lightsphere or the clones.
 

mgb74

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...What persons call "diffused" light is actually just a bigger light source that provides illumination from more directions...

Very true, but I think the "just" gives a misleading perception. I don't have the GF light sphere (or a clone), but I believe their primary market is wedding and similar event photography, not fine art portraiture. In those situations, you don't have the flexibility of controlling your environment. A consistent diffusion source provides control and the diffused look is apparently pleasing to that wedding market.

Gary Fong represents a style and brand. There are those willing to pay the price for that. Just as some are willing to pay for a Rolex. Whether the GF plastic is better than the clone plastic is anyone's guess. That you're paying a significant premium for the name is very, very, very likely.

Personally, I was not content with the old time solution of the rubber band and index card. So I chose to upgrade to a larger piece of white foamcore and rubber band.
 
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Chris Nielsen

Chris Nielsen

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Don't waste your money on the GF Lightsphere or the clones.

Righto, I'll avoid them.

Apart from bouncing, is there much else we can do to soften the light? I suppose without getting the light off the camera there ain't much... A friend with a mini softbox reckons they're a waste of time as well
 

benjiboy

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Righto, I'll avoid them.

Apart from bouncing, is there much else we can do to soften the light? I suppose without getting the light off the camera there ain't much... A friend with a mini softbox reckons they're a waste of time as well
In the olden days before Garry Fong was born, and softboxes hadn't been thought of yet I used to carry a clean white cotton handkerchief and a couple of rubber bands in my pocket and to diffuse the flash I would fasten the handkerchief over the flashhead with a rubber band and found that 1 thickness of hankerchief caused 1 stop of light loss and two thicknesses 2 stops, this idea is also very useful for reducing the power for fill in flash in sunlight.
 
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Chris Nielsen

Chris Nielsen

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In the olden days before Garry Fong was born, and softboxes hadn't been thought of yet I used to carry a clean white cotton handkerchief and a couple of rubber bands in my pocket and to diffuse the flash I would fasten the handkerchief over the flashhead with a rubber band and found that 1 thickness of hankerchief caused 1 stop of light loss and two thicknesses 2 stops, this idea is also very useful for reducing the power for fill in flash in sunlight.

Interesting...

I should probably have a crack with the built in bounce card on my (new to me) SB26 but I'll keep your idea in mind
 

markbarendt

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In those situations, you don't have the flexibility of controlling your environment.

You do have the ability to use good strobes and cameras. An N90s with balanced ttl and an SB80 strobe is plenty for most any interior space.

Outdoors, well short of a movie lighting set or stadium lights it's tough to light anything but the subject.

A consistent diffusion source provides control and the diffused look is apparently pleasing to that wedding market.

I think the reality is that wedding shooters just get tired of aiming their strobes and a diffuser used with a whopper of a strobe can reduce the need for aiming the head.
 

jongcelebes

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My thing is:
- Available light first (exclusive class);
- If it isn't enough then bounce to ceiling/wall(business class); and
- If bounce isn't possible then bounce-card (economy class). I bring my velcro-strap and notes with me.

I never expect, any light modifier output become as great as available light - but somehow I need to cooperate with my lens and situation. Flash sometimes is the answer.
 

2F/2F

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Of course what J. Brunner said is true ("What persons call "diffused" light...), because that is what diffusion is. It does not mean that there is no use for flash diffusers, however. I use them when there is just no alternative, like a nice ceiling (e.g. most weddings). They are certainly better than nothing. If in studio, there are better options, but if you find yourself in a situation in which you must use on-camera flash, anything is better than nothing. Just think about the size and shape of your light if you want to decide between diffusers.

I normally use the dedicated diffusers on my Sunpak 555, but just borrowed a Canon 580 with a Gary Fong Photojournalist thingy on it. Results are actually quite like a Speed Graphic with the 5 inch right angle reflector, but with slightly softer edges on the shadows. The size and shape of the light source of the two are about the same, but the Gary Fong thingy is frosted, not chrome. Shooting it in the dark, it still looks like a flash. Outside for fill, it is better than nothing if you are working hand held and quickly.

I do find the Gary Fong thing is unwieldy (and ridiculous looking).

Also, it is $40. I know because I lost the one I borrowed (because it was unwieldy and got knocked off) and had to replace it for my friend. The $150 thingy the other fellow talked about must be ultra fancy or something.

As for generics, I would feel OK trying one, especially at ten bucks. They are very simple gadgets. There is not a whole lot to screw up, or even skimp on, with a reverse-engineered version...except, of course, labor, employee benefits, taxes, insurance, and other costs. The Gary Fong versions are made in the U.S.A., however, so for only $30 more, you are helping someone here keep a job, helping to keep a U.S. business alive, and contributing to the amount of income our governments receive.

An example:

3914003864_9c50459a7a_o.jpg


Still looks like a flash, but looks notably better than a bare flash. What were my options to get this pic? Set up a light stands, perfect the lighting with the ideal modifiers, and meter the flash? I think not. On-camera flash was the only way, and the diffuser helped make the compromise a little easier to stomach.

Personally, a lot of the time I use flash, I want the light to look like flash. Actually, the look of this particular flash rig that I was using was just perfect for the mood I wanted to create with my dance floor shots. For everything else that night, I used fast lenses, high ISOs, and the overhead tungsten lamps.
 
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Chris Nielsen

Chris Nielsen

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Interesting, thanks.. I like this part: "you are helping someone here keep a job, helping to keep a U.S. business alive, and contributing to the amount of income our governments receive."

Umm, I live in the south Pacific so you guys are all foreigners to me :smile:
 

2F/2F

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Interesting, thanks.. I like this part: "you are helping someone here keep a job, helping to keep a U.S. business alive, and contributing to the amount of income our governments receive."

Umm, I live in the south Pacific so you guys are all foreigners to me :smile:

No matter where you live, you are still doing all of the above for the U.S., so I encourage it, especially with such a low-cost item. I suppose you could look for a New Zealand manufacturer of speed light modifiers....:D
 

removed account4

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Righto, I'll avoid them.

Apart from bouncing, is there much else we can do to soften the light? I suppose without getting the light off the camera there ain't much... A friend with a mini softbox reckons they're a waste of time as well

as mgb74 said
Personally, I was not content with the old time solution of the rubber band and index card. So I chose to upgrade to a larger piece of white foamcore and rubber band.

... works well too ...
i usually use a the cardboard from a box of film ..

( it works well enough that some of the nikon speed flashes come with a built in white card :smile: )

john
 

DWThomas

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I found myself in a situation last weekend where I was at an outdoor wedding (as a guest and unofficial photographer) where I had been asked by the mother of the bride (my sister!) to take some black and white. The wedding was outdoors and due to some rescheduling and some transportation glitches, it was near pitch black by the time the ceremony started. The only illumination was a few oil torches on poles. I have to tell ya, bounce was not an option -- the sky is pretty far away!

On one camera I had one of those Sto-Fen bits of Tupperware which I'm not convinced do much; I finally took it off, deciding what I needed most was more light output. I shot plain old high range auto with my ancient Canon 188A on my Perkeo II and am relatively happy with what I got. If I had it to do over, I think I'd move toward one of those mini-softbox gizmos to try to create a broader source, or at least get a bracket that would move the flash farther from the lens axis. The official photographer had one of those GF things -- looks like something that fell off a street lamp. I hope some day soon to see what he got with that -- I'll have some stuff of my own to compare.

It's sort of weird, the previous weekend I spent some time playing with fill flash for some tests, something I've done very little of. In the end, after worrying how I would handle it, I didn't need fill anyway -- there was no other light to add fill to. :sad:

DaveT
 
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