Is there a difference, especially determining personal EI, between contact printing the step tablet onto the film and loading the step tablet into a film holder and shooting a white target at Zone X ? This is assuming that the camera lens, shutter, etc are all up to spec.
I am oversimplifying a lot. There’s a specified Corning blue glass. But I think it’s pretty close to 80B.
Remember that’s the filter you use on daylight balanced color film when shooting under Tungsten. So if it will make color film look good, it must be pretty close to the difference between daylight and tungsten
I have made the personal experience, that even good enlarger lenses produce quite a bit of flare, and that contact printing is the only way I was able to get reliable H&D curves. Even multi coated lenses have about 0.5% flare, and you can only imagine, what that does with a step wedge that goes all the way to D=3.0.