How about one of your windows at home?
Seriously, that is what soft boxes are designed to mimic and the effect is easy to see before you shoot.
Studio lighting is fun, and I don't want to discourage your experimentation, but there is a significant learning curve and a lot of ways to do it as evidenced by the tools (lights and meters) available.
One question: if the studio lights are on the subject, why can't you no longer use camera's metering to set the exposure? Isn't the in camera meter measuring light reflected off the subject still?
I'd also very highly recommend any edition of the book Light, Science, and Magic by Hunter and Fuqua (and Biver in later editions). If you read it, you'll be well on your way to understanding working with light, and know more about what you'll need for your purposes. A used one from Amazon for about $18 would do perfectly well. The behavior and physics of light hasn't changed much in the last couple of years.
I wouldn't make any specific recommendations though, unless I could sit down and ask you a lot of questions. There are just too many variables involved to answer such a generic question. How old are your kids? Will they sit still to pose? Do you want to spend a good deal of money on multiple lights up front, or are you willing to get one good brighter light source and build a larger kit as you need it?
... and many more
Lee
Chris Grey's book is good too. Lots of comparison shots of light sources and placement, and it's good on building off the key light without overdoing it.Thanks Lee, I just ordered that book and also Master Lighting Guide for Portrait Photographers by Chris Grey from Amazon.
Currently, my children are 17, 13 and 7. The 7 year old, if you can believe it, is the most amenable to posing but I can also bribe her with candy. They will sit grudgingly for portraits but I don't think they would tolerate flashes.
My "studio" is my library where I have a white couch that is just under a set of downward pointing spotlights.
I would prefer to get several lights initially as a kit and learn to work with them slowly, initially one light and then adding another as I learn more.
Hot lights (continuous tungsten sources) are great for seeing exactly how your lighting is working, but they are often underpowered for use with slower portrait films, and if you get hot lights that are bright enough to stop motion and use middle apertures, it often becomes painfully hot and bright for the subject. You can give models a 'sunburn' pretty easily with a quartz light and no scrim or diffusion. You might find that you quickly outgrow a beginner's SV three light starter kit unless you keep your project small and only shoot one person with lights pretty close in to the subject.
Good point. That's one of the questions I'd ask. B&W, or color? You can shoot color under tungsten light and balance in printing, but it's not recommended for good color, with film. I've even seen some recommendations to use color balancing filters with digital, but that's definitely not my area. An 80A filter that loses about 1.25 stops is needed to correct the 3200K of these lights to 5500K daylight color film. Or Rosco or Lee gels with a similar light loss and a designation of full CTB (color temperature blue) placed over the lights would work for daylight color film.With tungsten film in short supply these days, does this sort of kit even apply to film anymore? With digital you can just dial the white balance to tungsten but I can't find any 160T portrait film these days. Using a blue filter to try and correct it makes the lights seem even dimmer.
I'm not trying to be alarmist here, but I just looked more closely at the specific light kit mentioned. A word of warning, that kilowatt main light should never be pointed open-faced at anyone, nor should the 600W units. Always use a protective wire mesh screen over them. I can't tell of one is provided from the photos. The last thing you want is hot shards of glass exploding into your kids' eyes, and these quartz lamps do sometimes explode. But even if that's a rare occurrence, you don't want to take that risk.
A kilowatt of quartz light in the face from a few feet will definitely bring on the squints from your subjects and give them a sunburn in a few minutes. It's like a tanning booth, especially at just a few feet. Bounce it or scrim it. Quartz halogen is about 3.5% efficient, so as much light as it's putting out, it's putting out more than 25 times that much heat and other energy, including IR and UV.
Also never touch the bulbs bare-handed. The oils from your skin will stick to the glass, and can sometimes cause differential heat build up in the glass where the oils are that causes the bulb to explode. Use gloves or a lintless cloth or the plastic wrap that the bulb comes in to handle the bulb.
The upside of quartz is that the lamps have a sort of self-cleaning action that prevents tungsten build up on the interior glass of the lamp. The cheaper tungsten photofloods have this problem, and a resulting usable life of only a few hours before going off in color balance.
Lee
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