I hate theorists, especially when their theories are off-base. I gave a well-proven recipe.Claire Senft said:I have done no aquarium work. I am assuming that one will be photographing in a fairly small aquarium, as opposed, to say, the Shedd Aquarium. If you have mono lights or flash head and pack that have modeling lights, you could darken the room and I think that you would be able to judge reflection problems and get a feel for the modeling quality of your lights. I imagine that you should be able to employ top light, also, if desired. If you have an incident flash meter that can be used w/o a cord You could seal it in a plastic lunch bag put it into the wate to take an exposure reading. You could also set your lighting ratios. Of course these same techniques could be used with tungsten lighting. If you wish to confine a fish to a small area you could use insert a piece of glass behind the fish.
Here is a good application for a digicam: Use it in the same position as your film camera, I am assuming a tripod here, as an electronic polaroid.
If you can stand the expense, a polarizer on the camera and polarizing filters on the lights will allow very flexible control of reflections. It will also allow much increased saturation with color film. The polarization will also cause a light loss of approximately 4 stops.
I hate theorists, especially when their theories are ill-considered, and I gave a well-proven recipe.JBrunner said:In regard to reflective surfaces and lighting, light always reflects (given a uniform surface) at the exact opposite angle it arrives. If the lens is in this zone it will "see" the light source. One thing that is done is to make the reflection bigger than the object being photographed, and is accomplished with larger light sources like soft boxes etc. This would not be appropriate for your intention, and would in fact exacerbate the reflection problems. The other solution is to position the lighting to send the reflections else where than the lens. The point of the 45 is to send the reflected light off at the opposite 45 and therefore miss the lens. This is a good starting point. If you position your head where the lens will be you will be able to see what will be reflected in the field of view for the focal length you choose. If you can make the room dark, do so, and you will be dealing with a smaller set of light sources. Pushing the lens up against the glass will in effect flag the light from the lens. A Pola as stated before will help as well but can only phase half the light from a point source, and as such will be most useful for reducing ambient reflection. The proper exposure compensation for a pola is 1 1/2 stops or less depending on how far it is rotated in. Schneider makes a Pola called a Tru Pol that requires a 2 stop compensation at its strongest.
(addendum- in re-reading the previous post I see that the 4 stop figure was
given in regard to polarizing the lights as well. I do not believe polarizing both the lights and lens would serve any purpose except to make it very dark, as far as the camera was concerned
Dan Fromm said:I hate theorists, especially when their theories are ill-considered, and I gave a well-proven recipe.
If you read it a little more carefully you will see that it's experience, not theory. I find your comments insulting.
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