I've often wondered about that with respect to some of my flash meters.
It may be because you can use them with flash bulbs as well.
Studio flash duration can be much longer than the flash duration of handheld "strobes" this may also be part of the reason as might the lower powered systems of the past, e.g. the 200ws Studiomasters, where the modeling light may also affect exposure slightly.
I have never used a handheld flash meter before and have a basic question.
I just purchased an older Minolta IV F flash-capable light meter in mint condition for a good price. I noticed in the manual, a shutter speed can be set for the corded on non-corded flash modes.
Since the flash is of a very short fixed duration, the camera shutter speed should have no effect on the flash exposure if set longer than the duration of the flash. If there is significant ambient light present as well, the shutter speed would affect that part of the exposure only until the shutter speed became shorter than the flash duration. Correct?
My question is why a flash meter has a shutter speed setting in the flash modes. Does the meter use that setting to measure the ambient light at that shutter speed before firing the flash and adding the detected flash illumination to the ambient value?
My Minolta IV F doesn't have a % flash indication, but does it still calculate and sum the contributions of both ambient and flash separately?? If not, the reason for the shutter speed setting is a mystery to me.
Does the meter also measure actual flash duration and use the shutter speed setting to calculate a reduced light value for the flash if the shutter speed is set to a duration less than the detect flash duration?
Thanks for any help.
Regards,
Don
ALL shots consist of TWO portions...1) the fraction which is due to flash, and 2) the fraction which is due to ambient.
Usually we choose X-sync (or slower) speed for focal plane shutter cameras, but there are some leaf shuttered cameras that can sync with electronic flash with shutters as fast as 1/1000! So in using a flashmeter like your Autometer IVf , it always considers the two fractions to a single exposure -- even though it does not have the analyze capability, to tell you what fraction of the total is due to flash vs. due to ambient light.
Old flashmeter only measured the peak intensity of the flash and thus those didn't have shutter speed setting. I believe Minolta was first to introduce the type of integration flash meter. It measures light for the duration of the shutter speed set and taken into account that the light intensity isn't a constant during that duration. So the result is an integral of the light for the measurement period which is the shutter speed setting.
In the example that some studio flash can have duration as long as 1/240 sec or so and if the meter is set at 1/500 and the camera also at 1/500 it will indicate a lower reading which is the correct reading.
If you are shooting in the studio why would you need to shoot at a speed faster than flash duration? You are actually "chopping off" part of your flash exposure. AND (big and) most studio cameras have shutter speeds only up to 1/100th-ish to about 1/250-ish until you get to the MF systems. Slower shutter speeds are fine, too, depending on the ambient and modeling light contributions to exposure.Thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know. That means I can use a shutter speed faster than my studio strobes' flash duration and the meter should still give me a correct f/stop setting, as it will only measure the part of the flash discharge active when the shutter is open. That's good information to know. Also that the contribution of ambient light to the total reading is properly calculated.
If you are shooting in the studio why would you need to shoot at a speed faster than flash duration? You are actually "chopping off" part of your flash exposure. AND (big and) most studio cameras have shutter speeds only up to 1/100th-ish to about 1/250-ish until you get to the MF systems. Slower shutter speeds are fine, too, depending on the ambient and modeling light contributions to exposure.
So if I understand correctly, in flash mode the shutter speed setting on the meter controls how long the meter measures light, as on a camera. If only the flash is providing light, as in a darkened room, the meter would read the same regardless of the shutter speed setting (up to the duration of the flash). If the ambient light is higher, the meter will sum the same light from the flash plus the ambient light detected during whatever the shutter speed is set to.
Yes, but it would be an extreme rare combination of events that allows the combination of flash duration > 1/100 and shutter speed needed is < 1/200...the shortest flash duriation one generation sees is about 1/400 at full power output, and even the film SLRs of the 1990s generally are limited to 1/200 to be fully open curtains compatible with flash.Thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know. That means I can use a shutter speed faster than my studio strobes' flash duration and the meter should still give me a correct f/stop setting, as it will only measure the part of the flash discharge active when the shutter is open. That's good information to know. Also that the contribution of ambient light to the total reading is properly calculated.
If you are shooting in the studio why would you need to shoot at a speed faster than flash duration? You are actually "chopping off" part of your flash exposure. AND (big and) most studio cameras have shutter speeds only up to 1/100th-ish to about 1/250-ish until you get to the MF systems. Slower shutter speeds are fine, too, depending on the ambient and modeling light contributions to exposure.
Wondering how you define a "studio camera"? when I shoot commercially in the studio:
Nikon film SLRs or DSLRs: 1/8000th shutter.
Cambo 4x5 Monorail: 1/400th
Mamiya 6x7: 1/400th
Leaf backs: whatever you have 'em attached to.
My only cameras that max at 1/100th or 200th are folders from the 1940's.
Wondering how you define a "studio camera"? when I shoot commercially in the studio:
Nikon film SLRs or DSLRs: 1/8000th shutter.
Cambo 4x5 Monorail: 1/400th
Mamiya 6x7: 1/400th
Leaf backs: whatever you have 'em attached to.
My only cameras that max at 1/100th or 200th are folders from the 1940's.
The quote I was questioning was "most studio cameras have shutter speeds only up to 1/100th-ish to about 1/250-ish".
- Your Nikon DSLR and SLR's have a top speed of 1/4000th (true) but will not sync with studio flash at those speeds. And so called FP flash is not very effective
- If your flash duration is 1/250 with your Cambo and you set shutter to 1/400th your flash duration is longer you are chopping off some light again.
- Ditto Mamiya.
- Don't know what a leaf back is this is the analog forum.
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