I scan the print file page and make a print of that, filing it with the negative page. This way I have both a physical contact sheet and a digital one that I can refer to on the computer.
When I solo-bicycled in NZ for 5 months with my 4x5, I took a collection of my favorite 4x5 contact prints -- as many as I could fit into a 25 sheet box of 4x5 film. A traveling portfolio I could share. Images of the Redwoods, other National Parks, and some closer to home. I spent a week in my tent in the heavy rain with the flu on the west coast of the South Island. I kept semi-sane by going thru that box of prints, looking at the composing of the light and such. I had already printed them all at 16x20, and knew how far I had taken them in the darkroom, so the straight contacts gave me an opportunity to approach them anew.I like contact proof sheets because I can peruse them and mark them up while sitting outside sipping a cappuccino or a glass of wine.
After decades of studying my negatives (up to 11x14), I sort of see them as positives...my brain just accepts that less silver means less light in the print.
I make proper proofs of all my negatives (except those that are never, ever going to be printed because of damage, not closing the preview, etc.). All my negs are 4x5 these days, so proofs are big enough to view easily without magnification.
Proper proofs (min exposure time to max black for the film rebate) help me keep an eye on my exposure and development as well as other process variables. I also use the proofs for deciding which negative to actually print and the cropping (I use a pair of cropping Ls).
Proofs are filed in binders along with the negatives and the exposure information sheets. When looking for a negative from years ago, the proofs help a lot as well.
Best,
Doremus
I make proper proofs of all my negatives (except those that are never, ever going to be printed because of damage, not closing the preview, etc.). All my negs are 4x5 these days, so proofs are big enough to view easily without magnification.
Proper proofs (min exposure time to max black for the film rebate) help me keep an eye on my exposure and development as well as other process variables. I also use the proofs for deciding which negative to actually print and the cropping (I use a pair of cropping Ls).
Proofs are filed in binders along with the negatives and the exposure information sheets. When looking for a negative from years ago, the proofs help a lot as well.
Best,
Doremus
In the long run, I find that it saves more time than it takes!
I have further thoughts on this subject, recently, which I will add to the thread on FADU, Jonathan.
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