This is what Ive used for many years. Meets all criteria except #7, which might be unrealistic in context of the other criteria. I write on the wrap with a sharpie for identifying what’s inside. The wrapped lenses get stored and transported in either camera bag or a camera storage box… so maybe all 7 criteria are possible.
Domke Color Coded Protective Wrap - 722-11y
The Domke Color Coded Protective Wraps are constructed of padded knit nylon with a non-scratch nylon backing. These squares can be wrapped around small cameras, lenses, electronic flashes, tools, or anything else that will fit inside a bag or case. Touch fastener tabs on all four corners allow...tiffen.com
This might fit your bill, if you can locate one. I didn't see it on the Mountainsmith website just now, and the B&H entry says out-of-stock. I had a need much like yours, and the Mountainsmith bag works perfectly for me. I see similar items elsewhere, but they may not be of the same quality as the Mountainsmith bag.I have about a dozen lesser-used Nikon lenses and am looking for appropriate storage options. My criteria are:
1. protective storage for occasional transport.
2. easy access and overview( don't want to open many individual boxes or wraps to find that one lens).
3.no foam(that's what I have now; it crumbles and makes a mess).
4. breathing material to avoid mold.
5. handle to carry them around.
6. reasonable attractive look.
7. waterproof to take the occasional rain shower.
I use photo back packs which I set up the equipment partitions to meet my needs.
RalphLambrecht mentions "breathable material to avoid mold."
I have just discovered mold behind the front element of one of my cameras.
I always leave a UV filter on my lenses for protection.
I am now thinking it might be a good idea to remove the filters when storing cameras and fitting the lens cap on loosely.
That way I am not creating an airtight compartment around the front elements that holds in any humidity that was in the air when the filter was attached.
There are cases with divider sections, so that you can place things at the spacings you need. The cases are semi-hard exterior (e.g. Vangaard) or hard exterior (e.g. Pelican).
Lenses sitting in divided sections means nothing interferes with identifying which lens is which simply with a glance, rather than individually zippered lens cases. I have used one semi-hard case with divider sections for my medium format gear, taking it with me in the past for wedding jobs.
I label all my lens caps (top & bottom) with the focal length so I can easily identify them when stored vertically. Sometimes after a busy day of shooting, the caps can become mixed up so I put them back on their proper lenses.You can choose to either put lens in vertically (as divided) so lenses are not readily identified, or place them horizontally so you can readily see which lens is in which compartment.
Here is a photo of the Tenba Air Case interior, which is what I use and referenced in my earlier post
You can choose to either put lens in vertically (as divided) so lenses are not readily identified, or place them horizontally so you can readily see which lens is in which compartment.
I have two pelican 1510 roller cases with padded dividers. I bought them to check some cameras for air travel. I now mostly use them for storage of lesser used lenses and cameras. Since they are air tight I add a rechargeable desiccant pack to avoid mold issues, checking it each time I open the case. But like others I most store my lens in photoback packs in my basement office. I do run a dehumidifier during the summer months to keep the humidity around 50%. So far no mold with either option, though it's a constant worry for lenses and prints.
Buy an inexpensive Circuit accessory that'll cut a circle out of self adhesive vinyl, the non-permanent type, in the colour system you want, for example green for wide angled primes, yellow for medium length focual distance primes and orange for long telephotographical primes.
Use a bright red for zoom lenses and use some of the same vinyl colour for caps or even lens barrels; I'm strips or circles.
A Big_Black_Sharpie, for marking the lens data, will be wanted, for certain.
I write non-permanent self adhesive vinyl but if you're certain of your markings, go ahead and use the longer lasting material.
I think these circle cutters, press down to cookie cut, are less than $10U.S., and can be found in Michael's, Amazon.com and other places where Circuit machines and tools are sold.
Cheers.
I make large sections for large lenses and short sections for short lenses. I have never had a problem figuring out which lens to put where.
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