Oh, Axel, this has been hashed out for decades. This is a 50-year-old argument. The simple answer: not that you are likely to see on film. If you like a certain focal length but it is a retrofocus design, just go get it....The shorter R lenses have to be retro-focus to make room for a mirror box. Does that diminish their performance in any way?
At least for the body the repair costs should be that of the respective Minolta body, leaving aside Leica proprietary spares.Also, any repair costs are astronomical for Leica equipment based on what I've heard.
Thanks all for the recommendations.
Micheal, are you saying that the R lenses don't work with standard threaded filters? They only work with series filters? Also, you mention that certain lenses work well with this or that color filter. I use colored filters not based on the lens, but on the effect that it gives; for example a yellow or red filter to darken a blue sky or a green filter to lighten foliage.
.. Are the R lenses just as good?..
Of all the R series, the R6 or R6.2 should theoretically be the most reliable because all it has is mechanical shutter speed and aperture; the only electronics are the meter and self timer. No program, aperture, or shutter priority electronics of the R4, R5, R7, R8, or R9 cameras.
The R3, of which I owned an olive drab Safari kit briefly, lived up to its reputation of electronic unreliability.
As net legend has it, R4's up to a certain serial number share similar foibles as the R3.
For full aperture metering, you will need 3-cam lenses for an R6 - not a bad thing, just more expensive.
http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/LeicaR6.html
My only reflex Leicas are the R8 and two SL's.
In the UK it is £700 for a 60mm macro
Is the R6 self timer electronic? I would be rather surprised if that is the case.
Thanks Rob. Still mulling it over.I had the R5 and R4M2 years ago when I worked at a paper. I had six lenses 24, 28, 35, 50, 90, 180 f3.4.
I used it professionally for years and never needed service.
I always thought the R6M2 was a great camera and wish I had bought one when I was shooting so much. It would be my choice still.
I think you can get away with four lenses, although it depends what you like 135mm, 90mm, 50mm 28mm. (Maybe you don't need the 90mm if you just want three lenses.)
Lenses longer than the 180mm are a bit of a pain to use and the 180 f3.4 APO that I had was tough to focus.
Maybe this info is useful to you.
-rob
I used to own a couple of R8 bodies with the 35/2, 50/2 and 90/2. The lenses are great but to be honest I can't say that they were any better than the "good stuff", say a Nikon 50/1.2 or a Zeiss 50/1.4 or a Canon 50/1.2L (which I've personally owned as well at various times), especially when you consider the prices. I got a brand new in the box Nikon 50/1.2 for what a 50/2R costs. The old 50/1.4R is what I paid for the Canon 50/1.2 (the new 50/1.4R is just silly money). In the UK it is £700 for a 60mm macro. And so on.
The silly prices make sense for M bodies as you get a lot of tangibles vs SLRs but for the R...I'm not so sure. You can't use the M lenses on them anyway so if you have a comprehensive 35mm SLR system I would say maybe it is better to fill the gaps with the top end lenses for that system vs doing a very expensive switch.
You could also try before you switch, buy an R lens you want and try it on your camera with an adapter. If you like it enough and you notice the difference you can make the switch, otherwise you loose a few dollars on the adapter and whatever you loose on the sale.
It's the same with the Contax SLR stuff.... it's just brand fetishism. If you want a mechanical SLR you can buy a Nikon F/F2/FM/Nikkormat (or similar from others) with lenses for a fraction of the price of a Leica R6 kit. Image quality across all of them is going to be very similar.
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