- while a leader can be trimmed manually, looks like having a template is the way to get this in a repeatable fashion, I don't think I'm going for the original (unless a reasonably priced one comes along), any suggestions which template works well?
I figured manual trimming is not a high science project, and TBH I don't think I'm going to need a lot of it to start (unless a Barnack gets me going and moves my "loyalty" away from others). But that's main reason original Leitz template is not a consideration at current calling prices.I simply pull out the leader until 23 sprocket holes are exposed and then trim with small scissors. With a little practice you'll find whether you prefer to trim from the free ot the cassette end.
Sadly that link appears dead.
Sadly that link appears dead.
You have to register for that forum in order to see the file. I'll try attaching it (though the template needs to be made from materials that aren't in every household).
I've just been tearing with my fingers.
You can cut it easily, but if you want there is a 3D printed ALBON, works great:
Leica ABLON style film leader trimming guide. by PariahProps
This film leader trimming guide is my take on the original Leica ABLON metal version. Old bottom loading Leicas need a much longer film leader than is cut into modern 35mm film, the guide helps to get the right shape to prevent things going awry in your camera.Some people will sneer and say...www.thingiverse.com
or this simple one:
Leica III film cutting tool by diygallery
A super-simple tool to cut film for old Leica screwmount camerawww.thingiverse.com
So I have a Leica IIIC with Summitar arriving shortly, and possibly will get one of the earlier M's at some point, and the questions are:
- are all these cameras take in same leader length, or is there a variation? I have read a post somewhere last night where a guy had to play around with leader length before he got one of his LTM bodies to accept the film as properly loaded. I find this whole thing strange, to say the least, but all I know is what I read, yet there are a lot Leica users here, so am hoping for some consensus on this issue (BTW, I have read and understood official film loading instructions, am yet to do first roll anyways, just saying), and to add, I am planning to add at least one or two more LTM bodies, "If" being one of them
- while a leader can be trimmed manually, looks like having a template is the way to get this in a repeatable fashion, I don't think I'm going for the original (unless a reasonably priced one comes along), any suggestions which template works well?
I have always used a template with my IIIf. When I got an M2 - which loads very similarly to the IIIf - I tried it without cutting a long leader and it worked just fine. Of course, the M2 has a back door to make sure everything is seating properly, but I wonder if you really need the long leader or can just carefully use a normal one on the III body...
Story I read yesterday was that the guy was messing around with leader length, because he could not get one of his III's to take film up properly and said: needed 2 extra sprocket holes from Leica suggested length in order to get things corrected. I still fail to understand how.
I can see when film is not cut for leader to only have sprocket holes on one side, to ease engagement/alignment with sprocket wheel, until camera is closed and can be wound to first frame, and I guess that's how going through front end to wiggle film around inside the film chamber came about.
On the other hand, I suppose if you want to shoot a Leica "correctly" you've got to load it as Leica said you should, otherwise what comes out is not a 100% Leica photograph
I just tried loading a roll of 24 exposure out of date Tri-X into the IIIf without cutting a leader. It worked just fine. You just have to make sure that everything is seated properly before you close up the camera.
I wonder why Leica ever recommended the longer leader cut...
To be able to clear the innards of the camera when loading. You have to clear the sprockets.
Possibly Leica was worried that not having long leader would potentially damage top edge of film when being moved into the camera over the sprockets, which might lead to small chunks of film breaking off and eventually causing other problems inside. Just guessing.
The sprocket at the top of the camera does not allow the film to slip over it - it has to feed onto the sprocket holes laterally. There is also the possibility that a short leader could have the point of the film (where it becomes full width again) pierce the shutter cloth. Which would you rather cut? Film leaders or shutter curtains?
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