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Leather question

grat

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Joined
May 8, 2020
Messages
2,049
Location
Gainesville, FL
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So, I'm in the process of fixing up an old ICA "Reflex" camera (quarter plate, "Dominar" f/4.5 1.5 cm lens). The camera's in pretty good shape overall-- a bit filthy, the curtain shutter needs replacing, the mirror is shot, there's some mild corrosion here and there, but mechanically and structurally, it's in good shape, and more importantly, it's easy to work on.



Now to the question-- The leather is 100% complete, but as you can see, is a bit faded, and has more than a few scuffs. Is it better to try to re-dye the scuffed areas, or just treat them as well-earned battle scars? My plan is to use a good leather cleaner followed by treatment, but my understanding is I should try to dye it first before that process.

What's preferable here? "Survivor", or "Restoration"...?
 
Your choice, really. I tend toward leaving the battle scars. But I also admire restoration that looks better than new.
 
Get to the other stuff first and see if you can get that working.

The leather is easy.
First conservative application of thin leather dye with a brush.
Then neatsfoot oil. Again, not too much. It can weaken glue. Apply with a soft toothbrush, to get into every crevice. Wipe it off after an hour or so with a soft cloth.
Gluing lifted leather should contrary to common wisdom, probably be done after oiling and drying. Don't put oil on the surfaces to be glued.
Contact rubber glue can easily become a nightmare, though it is in theory "the correct thing" to use. Using padded rubber bands to clamp down soft rubber erasers, with plastic bag material underneath, on tradition paper or wood glue, is probably better overall.
 
Helge said:
Get to the other stuff first and see if you can get that working.
Click to expand...

Replacement mirror's been ordered, and I may have found a source for shutter curtain material. Replacing it is slightly more complex-- haven't quite figured out how to remove the rollers for the curtain, and I'd rather not try to replace in situ. Tension may need to be adjusted, but the springs seem in good condition.

Fortunately, the camera is far, far simpler to work on than, say, a Graflex RB.
 
You don’t want to shoeshine it, that looks terrible and was never the original look.

Not too much neatsfoot oil. It will weaken some glues and can also cause mold and rotting in the leather.
 
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Nicholas Lindan said:
FWIW, on all the leather covered cameras I have worked on the original glue seems to have been shellac.
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Interesting. How do you know shellac from just old brittle glue?
Solubility in alchohol? Many natural glues will also do that.
 
shutterfinger said:
That liquid polish makes the camera look new not shinny.
Paste shoe polish will clog the pores in the leather, don't use it.
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It’s unoriginal colour on top.
You should match the original colour and texture. For that, thin alcohol based leather colour is better
 
I once (1990's) brushed an Icarette with black Chinese ink. It has stood the test of time well.
 
I would not use ethanol/isopropyl on the leather as it dries and shrinks it and can also dissolve the glue. Gently wipe the leather with a damp cloth and that would be all the cleaning required. As for the treatment, I normally use just a clear leather conditioner and no dyes or shoe polish. A conditioner will preserve the leather. You can always dye it later if you wish to but I like the look of old leather, scuffs and all.
 
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