Consider, also, the need to keep facial features in proportion. With the Hasselblad, a great head and shoulders lens would be the 150mm f/4. However, as 3x magnification, you could start to gain distance compression.I have a plan for tomorrow. I have found an old navy blue blanket that I can hang for a backdrop. It will be as good as black with B&W film. I'm going to lull my subjects into a false sense of security with lots of half-frame stuff first, and then use the Hasselblad. Kentmere 400 @640 in the Pen-FV, and HP5+ at 640 in the 503cx. Both can develop in Diafine at that EI. One high strobe placed high and no softbox, just as for the d*g*t*l photo above. If I can keep myself organised I will try both the 60mm/f1.5 and a new (to me) 100mm/f3.5 on the Pen-FV, and divide the 6x6 photos between the tried and trusted 150/f4 and the newer but stunning 250/f5.6.
The only blot on it all is that I have started my third episode of shingles today (a common accompaniment to CLL/BMTs and immunosuppression). Maybe tomorrow I will be as grouchy and evil as the average long-term member here and will fit right in. Maybe I'll have to delay it till I can move a bit more comfortably. My sense is to do it while I can as it distracts nicely from too much reality.
it songs like you already have the book Hollywood portraits, which is a great place to start. In addition, YouTube is full oh great lighting videos. The rest is practice, practice and practice.Since I rather hate digital cameras I am only able to learn very slowly about artificial lighting. I am aware that during some supposed 'golden age' photographers would check their lighting with a Polaroid back on the Hasselblad before committing rolls of film to a set-up that was going to be a disaster. Very sensible too.
Lately I have been re-reading Hicks and Nisperos book about the lighting of classic Hollywood portraits, which is really a remarkable piece of work. I was inspired to try something out, using a high-mounted strobe as key, and a right of camera CFT fill. I got a set of photos that were OK, but were absolutely nothing like I envisaged. It was clear to me that the softbox on the strobe was a large part of the problem, and that I had not done anything to check what the results might have been like before using a whole roll of film. As I am working my way, perhaps painfully, with an obsession with Olympus half-frame SLRs, there certainly isn't the option of using a Polaroid back, even if either the back or the film were available. Having occasionally used an ancient Canon G9 as a kind of exposure meter before exposing an expensive piece of 10x8 film, I decided to go a bit further down that road. Maybe a bit further than this forum allows, so I will post only a link to the result, not the image.
My first film used a strobe set very high and pointing down, with a CFT fill light from the right of the camera. I used a corded flash meter to set the exposure, and it all worked exactly as it ought, but nothing like the way I had envisaged! This is a half-frame picture (you'll just have to cope with my current obsession with half-frame Olympus SLRs, so sorry about that!):
A perfectly nice photo, but nothing like what I had in mind. I could see that the softbox on the strobe was destroying the harsh shadows I wanted. So today I took it off and set up another experimental exposure with the same strobe, no fill light (laziness being my only excuse), and exposure measured with a corded flash meter on the better-lit nose, rather than the usual chin and lips (wanting to keep them dark). Here comes the forbidden part: I took a digital camera, and spent at least as much time in its menus as would normally develop and dry a film, so that it was set to the same fixed ISO as the film I wanted to use (640, being Kentmere 400 developed in Diafine), manual exposure set to f16 and 1/60 as my trusty flash meter prescribed, and to auto-focus on a half-press of the shutter button along with a remote release cable. I may need therapy for the time spent in those menus! Being at home alone under house arrest as prescribed by a recent bone marrow transplant, despite triple vaccination, you will have to put up with a nearly hairless and ugly subject. It's tough being a reader of Photrio, but there we are. I took one shot, being bored already by all the set up. It came out much more like the result I had wanted, and I shall expend a roll of film doing it this way next weekend when the family (poor devils!) are home.
So what's the message here? Perhaps it is not to be afraid to use digital as a modern Polaroid test shot. Perhaps it's just that I'm not very good at this as yet. If so, I don't care, as long as I have enough fun doing it to keep me entertained. Anyway, I may end up taking a selfie in which I look like Cary Grant (or more likely Bela Lugosi) - it doesn't matter as long as I have fun doing it and perhaps inspire someone else to have some fun too!
If Matt is saying it is allowed (and I may be over-generously interpreting his words), this what the single strobe 'butterfly light 'produced:
Why not a softer light on his left side? You have no shadow detail and beard is uneven.
Whether or not you intended this image, I think it is a brilliant photograph. And there is some fill anyway; note the catchlights in his eyes and the light under his chin. Well done.Well, thank you, but along comes real life. I had planned to do much the same today, with my two (near) captive subjects, two films exposed at the same EI and developed in the same developer. Just to be difficult, I wanted also to compare the Sonnar 150/4 and the Sonnar 250/5.6 (which looks very clearly better to me). Since I was going to soften them up with dozen or so shots with the Pen-FV, why not compare the classic half-frame 60mm/f1.5 with the 100mm/f3.5 that arrived yesterday?
At that point, as usual, real life came along, as mentioned, and effed everything up. The first issue of no relevance to this forum was my third episode of shingles, which appears to be an occupational hazard of those with CLL, BMTs and immunosuppression. Eventually, I decided distraction was better than pain. Second problem, which I admit surprised me, was that the roll of HP5+ did not co-operate with the Rondinax 60. Lots of frames stuck together and few of any use. So at the end of it all, I got two frames of my son looking entirely evil on the half-frame film. I'm not sure whether he looks more like Peter Paul Rubens' satyr:
View attachment 291973
or the classic portrait of Jimmy Cagney and his massive eyebrow shadows:
View attachment 291974
But what I got, in half-frame as my 120 film got messed up, was this:
(Yes, that is half-frame cropped down to square! I'm told sharpness is a bourgeois concept.) Tomorrow, we are agreed, that if I can I shall do it all over again with the Hasselblad.
If it is of interest to anyone, exposure measured with an incident meter was around half to two-thirds of a stop different with the planned fill light turned on. Looking on the back of the D850, I decided straight away I did not want the fill light. So you will not see any photos with a camera-right fill light. It was just too strong.
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