Lazy AZO question

Nige said:

Considering a piece of paper cost me from $0.70 (8x10 RC) up to about $3.00 (12x16 FB), film, other chemicals and not to mention the $ in petrol, accomodation, gear and time to get the photos in the 1st place, the price of the Amidol is not looking to bad (it being cheaper is always better though!).

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You forgot the fixer (plain hypo aka sodium thiosulfate prismatic rice crystals - ammonium thiosulfate fixers usually turn the prints pink) and it's damned expensive.

But since you are spending so much on other materials and giving photogaphy so much of your precious time, the most valuable commodity of all, why not make absolutely the best prints you can possibly make? Personally, if I'm going to do this, I'm unwilling to make compromises. No prisoners. That means Amidol. And of course Azo. (BTW, my Azo cost me approx. US$0.62/sheet for 8 x 10).

Often the difference in contrast and/or tone between a pretty good print and a superb one is quite subtle. Sometimes that last 1% of effort or quality of materials can take you from 'Ok' to 'Magnificent!'. I want every unfair advantage I can get.

Nige said:

Good point Charles.

... however it's about to run out and buying it new here is $27 (all $ quoted as AUD... $1 AUD about 75cents US) bottle which makes 8 litres of working developer (1:7) that makes it $3.38/litre.

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Boy, that stuff is expensive down there. That's getting into amidol territory. I pay about $55.00 to Artcraft for 100 grams, which makes 12 liters of working solution, so it's only $4.50 or so per printing session.

Greg's bulk purchase makes it much cheaper for you to use Amidol. ($0.97 US/liter of working solution.)

Mark,
If my intention had been to scold you I would have done so! I guarantee that if you take my post as a scolding one something in it must have struck a nerve elsewise you would not have tried to read something into my comments that was not there.

You in no way have ruffled my feathers, I simply considered the source of the (your) wise A-- remarks, that is all that is necessary.

Have a great day/life Mark!

Mark,
Artcraft chemicals will prepackage the Amidol developer components in packages to make 1 liter of developer. Last time I ordered it cost about $8 per liter. Sounds expensive, but consider that your 8x10 film cost $3 per sheet, AZO almost a dollar. Amidol is notably superior to any other developer you can use. I believe that you shouldn't skimp on your materials. The print is the be all and end all of the process. Use each of best components possible. Amidol lasts for a long printing session. I make sure I have enough negatives saved up to print for 4-6 hours straight. I makes the cost per print quite reasonable.
Take care,
Tom

Tom,
If I had the time to devote 4-6 hours to printing I would be in heaven. It is not the number of negatives. As it is, If I find myself with lots of time I look at the chemicals I need to mix and then blow it off and go take pictures. SO far my printing is done is short sputs on POP. No chemicals to waste time mixing, just dump, dilute. It takes me five minutes to be completely set up to print on POP. It took a long time to get one litre of Amidol developer ready. Where, in my small printing window, I can do three maybe four final prints on POP, I get one done in Amidol. That is not very economical because I may not be able to print for a couple of days or even weeks.

Unless I am missing something about the mixing of Amidol, I see no way to speed up the process.

mark said:

It takes me five minutes to be completely set up to print on POP.

Unless I am missing something about the mixing of Amidol, I see no way to speed up the process.

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4 to 5 minutes is about how long it takes me to mix up a liter of Amidol working solution. It would only take about 3 minutes, but it takes me 2 minutes or so to weigh out and dissolve the sulfite.

You must be missing something if it takes you any more than 5 minutes.

5 minutes even seems like a long time for mixing a liter of amidol, with only 30g or so of sulfite to disolve. OTOH, mixing D-72 takes much longer and must be left to sit while it cools.