The vibration is caused by the impact of the mirror slapping into the frame of the body when you release the shutter. It is present in the Hassy, obvious in a Pentax 67, and non-existent in a Rolleiflex (or any other TLR). It is most problematic at the slow end of the hand-holdable shutter speed continuum- between say 1 second and 1/15th, maybe up to 1/30th. Faster than that, there isn't enough time for the vibrations to record. Slower, and they fail to record as well because they don't last long enough. Oddly, the lack of sharpness they cause will be more noticeable when the camera is on a tripod. Hand-held, your hand is more likely to induce softness by its inherent instability than the mirror slap is.
... Oddly, the lack of sharpness they cause will be more noticeable when the camera is on a tripod. Hand-held, your hand is more likely to induce softness by its inherent instability than the mirror slap is.
Interestingly (or not), my experience has been just the opposite. The Hassy "vibration" is mitigated somewhat for me with a monopod and entirely with a tripod. When handheld I'm never really sure if the unsharpness is due to mirror slap or regular hand tremor. I find that when shooting lower speeds handheld it is easier to be successful with a TLR than a Hassy SLR, but that may be partly due to weight and shutter release design differences.
Edit: or in other words... what JW just said.
RE: Quick loading. it's certainly quicker to change the magazine on a Hasselblad than to load a Rollei, but re-loading that magazine with film is another matter. My Rolleiflex 2.8E is the easiest-loading medium format camera I own and the only one I can load while it's hanging from a neck strap.
Harry Fleenor (and possibly others - I don't know how difficult it is) can fit a much brighter screen to a Rollei TLR.
That's one area where my Yashicamat 124 probably beats the German machine it was emulating - the screen is nice and bright.
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I just bought a 3.5F from KEH in "Ugly" condition for $199.00. It doesn't have the waist level finder and the meter is not working, but the camera looked pretty darn nice from the picture. I'm curious to see what it looks like when I get it. I have a few parts for the body and a meter+cell, but if the lens it bad I might think of a polish job also. What does a front cell polish usually run cost wise? JohnW
Roger,
Actually the camera is only a "light tight box" it's the lens that's magic. JohnW
Roger,
We're talking all this fancy German - Swedish stuff and you inject something from Japan? Just kidding! Like I said earlier, if I want a fun, fast, easy, great picture taking machine then I grab my 124G. Plus, if I dropped that or somebody swiped it while I wasn't looking, I could live with it. One of the other "good" cameras has that happen and I might commit Hara-kiri. Whoops, I guess I'd just do that for the Japanese Yashica. Actually the camera is only a "light tight box" it's the lens that's magic. JohnW
I think I have to disagree. The camera is a light tight box for sure, but not just "only". The camera is also "magic" as it is the interface between you and that lens.
I really wanted a Rolleicord that was on here but talked myself out of spending the money because I had the Yadhica.
It's actually amazing that in this digital age, we can fill 6 pages comparing Hasselblads and Rolleis. I love my Rollei (an oldie from the 50's) but I gotta admit, it is getting damn hard to focus on that silky-smooth focusing screen. The Hasselblad is no easier, but I have the option of my 45-degree finder. Wish I had a split-image thing on the focusing screen of the Rollei.
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