No. How far the bellows are extended beyond infinity focus can effect your exposure times. This is called “bellows compensation”. But for tilts and shifts, you generally don’t have to worry about that because you’re not moving the lensboard all that far in comparison to when you focus. The angle you view on the ground glass can sometimes give you the illusion of certain areas being brighter than others, especially if there’s a fresnel lens attached. Once you get the camera, spend some time with these movements viewing them on the ground glass to familiarize yourself with how it all works.
One thing I had problems with when I first began with large format was loading the film holders. The first two times I did it, I did it wrong. On the first time, I didn’t seat them down far enough, so after pulling the dark slide to make an exposure, I couldn’t get it back in without popping the film out. The second time, I loaded all of the film in backwards. Eventually, I figured it out. It might be worth it to sacrifice one sheet of film so you can practice loading it in the daylight before having to do it blind.
Another problem I’ve had is not closing the shutter before inserting the film. You have to open the shutter to compose and focus your shot, and then close it back down before pulling the dark slide or Elise you’ll get super long exposure times. Also, you have to close the aperture before taking your shot. You need it wide open to focus (usually) but don’t often shoot that way. The whole process is very slow, so take your time. I’d practice at home without film a bunch before actually taking your shots to get used to the process, so you don’t skip a step and waste film.
Lastly, take a notepad out with you and lots of notes. Mine has stuff like actual shutter speeds of various shutters (the old ones can be off by a good bit), bellows compensation charts, filter factors, and anything else I might need in the field. It also has room for taking notes of the shots I’m taking for later use. I also always have a dry erase marker with me. I write down any important information on each film holder for later use. It’s often stuff like if I need to add or subtract development times to this shot, and what kind of film is in it. Plus I label each film holder with a number in case I find a light leak appearing in my shots. It makes narrowing down the source much easier.