Labeling Paper Before Exposure

[piffey]

Still working out my printing processes, but when I do I tend to go in with 10+ negatives and work through them, making several prints with varying levels of contrast so I can see them in different lights then will go back and make a final (read, heavy learning and development stage as a printer still). When I do this I'll build up a lot on the drying rack since I like to save everything and go over it later to determine why I made the decisions I did and so I can recreate that decision making process when thinking about the final print months down the road.

I have enough build up now though that it's hard to remember settings, MG filter used and dodge/burn by the time the print dries and I'd like to record that on the back of the paper. Since I utilize a shared darkroom I can't rely on a lot of labeling on the drying racks (my prints may get moved off once dried if there isn't enough space for others and I'm unable to come back by to pick them up in time) and I've tried in a notebook, but there is often times 100+ prints at the end of a session and going back through it's hard to make sure I got them in sequence (especially if someone moved some closer together on the rack to make space).

Long story short: Is there anything I can use to label the back of the paper before I expose it that won't taint my chemicals and won't wash off? And out of curiosity -- since I've learned from some of you already that I just need to change my approach -- what is your method for labeling prints so you can reproduce in the future? Do you label at all?

As always, thanks for the good advice Artists Formally Known As APUG.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Still working out my printing processes, but when I do I tend to go in with 10+ negatives and work through them, making several prints with varying levels of contrast so I can see them in different lights then will go back and make a final (read, heavy learning and development stage as a printer still). When I do this I'll build up a lot on the drying rack since I like to save everything and go over it later to determine why I made the decisions I did and so I can recreate that decision making process when thinking about the final print months down the road.

I have enough build up now though that it's hard to remember settings, MG filter used and dodge/burn by the time the print dries and I'd like to record that on the back of the paper. Since I utilize a shared darkroom I can't rely on a lot of labeling on the drying racks (my prints may get moved off once dried if there isn't enough space for others and I'm unable to come back by to pick them up in time) and I've tried in a notebook, but there is often times 100+ prints at the end of a session and going back through it's hard to make sure I got them in sequence (especially if someone moved some closer together on the rack to make space).

Long story short: Is there anything I can use to label the back of the paper before I expose it that won't taint my chemicals and won't wash off? And out of curiosity -- since I've learned from some of you already that I just need to change my approach -- what is your method for labeling prints so you can reproduce in the future? Do you label at all?

As always, thanks for the good advice Artists Formally Known As APUG.

One of the books on printing that I have recommends using a carpenter's pencil. The lead is soft and so will not leave an indentation and being flat will not roll of the counter.

 

[Svenedin]

I use a soft pencil (6B) and write on the back. I record:

1) The reference for the film (I number my films by the year e.g 1/2017, 2/2017 etc).

2) The frame number (if not completely obvious)

3) Type of paper e.g MGIV

4) Contrast filter setting

5) Printing exposure time, f stop and dodge/burn

6) The print developer used

The aim is to be able to compare easily when the prints are dry and to be able to reproduce the print years later with no fuss.

My film negative sleeves also state the film developer used (and time), camera used, location.

You can develop your own shorthand. It only takes a few seconds.

 

[Molli]

Exactly as Svenedin, although I also include the enlarger height and if I've had to warm or cool my chemicals and how long the print has been in each solution. As a complete overkill, all of that information is in a notebook, also, along with a description of the scene so I have more than just a negative number to remind me of which print I'm referring to. I label as I go (prior to the paper going beneath the enlarger light). I've also found a 6B better for RC paper, 3B being fine for fibre based.
When I make copies for others (I'm talking primarily family photo albums here) only the negative reference number goes on the back - no other 'technical' information - but with the who, where and when if that applies.

All of the above takes far less time to do than it did to type out just then!

 

[cornflower2]

A softish lead pencil for the back of FB prints and a Parker biro for the back of RC prints, both written lightly. I think about the only reproducible info that’s worth noting is the contrast filter selection, the brand/version of paper and perhaps the paper developer used, the latter which may influence the brown/neutral/blue image tone of the print.

 

[faberryman]

My process is iterative, so the early unsuccesful prints tend to go from the initial wash bath straight to the trash can. I do write down specifics of the final print in my exposure log.

 

[tedr1]

I also use a soft pencil, 6B, it works with all paper types I have found, doesn't wash off, and doesn't contaminate the chemistry.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

You don't need a soft pencil as long as you write on something hard. I have never had anything show through. I use mechanical pencils with regular lead in them which works great. The lead will break if you press too hard. I usually just write exposure information on the back. I split print with blue/green, so usually the only markings I use are b7s g8s. Any dodging or burning is noted with a + or - with a small rectangle shaded for location. Simple. I keep a notebook as well with all the info for the print in it including developer and paper type, etc. I write the page # of the notebook over the neg on the neg sleeve with a china marker.

At this point if you are trying to learn, you should write everything down on the back of the print. You can even write why you did what you did. I would also recommend you number the order you make them. You will learn much faster that way.

Hope that helps and good luck!

 

[jim10219]

I'll use a pen, pencil, whatever. I've never noticed an issue with any of them so long as you don't write with a heavy hand. Though, I usually mark my papers with an identifier during the first step. Just something like 1A, 1B, 2A, 0037, etc. Just something unique. Then I keep a notepad of all of the relevant information for each print listed under the identifier. That way I can write down information as I go, and don't have to worry about remembering information while I wait for paper to dry and such.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Is there anything I can use to label the back of the paper before I expose it that won't taint my chemicals and won't wash off? And out of curiosity -- since I've learned from some of you already that I just need to change my approach -- what is your method for labeling prints so you can reproduce in the future?

You can use a pencil. I make notations on filter, time and f/stop with a pencil on the back of my prints.

 

[MattKing]

I'll use a pen, pencil, whatever. I've never noticed an issue with any of them so long as you don't write with a heavy hand. Though, I usually mark my papers with an identifier during the first step. Just something like 1A, 1B, 2A, 0037, etc. Just something unique. Then I keep a notepad of all of the relevant information for each print listed under the identifier. That way I can write down information as I go, and don't have to worry about remembering information while I wait for paper to dry and such.

+1 about the identifier.
Just the date and a sequential number.
Put all the details on something that is much easier to write on - could even be a computer screen.

 

[winger]

I use a pencil on fiber paper and a Sharpie (fine point) on RC. My RC prints rarely get framed and I'm not worried about lasting implications of the ink. My fiber prints are my good ones (well, better usually).
A notation like "F2 f8 13 vsld R" would mean #2 filter, exposed for 13 seconds at f8 and very slightly dodged the right side. Just enough to keep track and know which print is which and be able to reproduce it. I tried writing a number on each print and writing the info separately, but then I kept having re-find the notebook and the right page. Having it on the print is easier for me.

 

[M Carter]

I keep a sheet of paper on the enlarger table and sketch print maps and masking info on it. As the print gets dialed in, I'll make changes to the print map and sometimes label prints (like A, B, C) if I try different things. For filters, I write the filter number in a little square box - "looks" like a filter I guess. I do all this at 5x7 or 8x10 to get exposure dialed in, so when I want to make larger final/finals, it's all the same so no need to label prints.

When I'm done, I trim the neg from the strip (6x6 or 6x7) and it goes in a glassine envelope, and any masks used go into labeled envelopes. Print maps and film and test prints go into standard job jackets, and I usually staple a 4x5 print from my very first tests to the front - it won't be near the final but at-a-glance I know which image is in which folder. I sometimes save any custom burn cards if they fit in the folder.

 

[mpirie]

Chinagraph (wax) pencil. $5 for 10......last for ages, don't wash off and resists moderate heat.

Used them for years and would be lost without one.

Mike

 

[piffey]

Wow! Thanks for the responses everyone. I figured there would be some special pencil or pen I had to buy if I was going to throw the print right into the chemicals afterward without tainting chemistry -- good to know that's not the case and kind of mad my darkroom teacher in high school never mentioned that. Appreciate all your responses and your labeling systems/shorthand. I'm definitely going to be stealing some to expand my own.

 

[mshchem]

Chinagraph (wax) pencil. $5 for 10......last for ages, don't wash off and resists moderate heat.

Used them for years and would be lost without one.

Mike

That's a good idea! Would work on RC as well. I've got red lab markers...... Hmmn, I impulse bought 2 dozen Kodak NOS Negative pencils, pretty sure they are basically a black wax pencil.
Best Mike

 

[Arklatexian]

Wow! Thanks for the responses everyone. I figured there would be some special pencil or pen I had to buy if I was going to throw the print right into the chemicals afterward without tainting chemistry -- good to know that's not the case and kind of mad my darkroom teacher in high school never mentioned that. Appreciate all your responses and your labeling systems/shorthand. I'm definitely going to be stealing some to expand my own.

Pity the poor darkroom teacher. Many years ago I read in a fine magazine published by Linhof, an article by a German Darkroom master describing how to make a good B&W print (burning -in, holding back, all that). He did not mention burning- in the corners of the print which all his prints showed. In a later issue he was asked why he did not mention burning-in the corners. His answer "I did not think that was necessary, why everyone knows to do that". Do any of you burn-in the corners of your prints?.....regards!

 

[faberryman]

Do any of you burn-in the corners of your prints?

If needed, but not as a matter of course.

 

[bdial]

For proof sheets and test prints I use a fine point sharpie, withstands the chemistry, but doesn't affect it, and doesn't rub off of RC, which I use a lot for tests and proof sheets.
Otherwise, if I need to mark a print with settings I use a pencil as described. Generally the info I record is the filter setting and exposure time, f/stop if it's something different from my normal two stops from the max aperture. + the developer, if I'm using something other than my normal brew.

 

[CMoore]

If it is going to be A Lot of info...I just write on mine with a sharpie.....#1 #2 #3 #4
Then i take notes in a notebook and write what i did it to the prints with those numbers.
If i just want to note 19" @ f/8.....i simply write that on the back of the paper.
Is that bad.?

 

[Svenedin]

If it is going to be A Lot of info...I just write on mine with a sharpie.....#1 #2 #3 #4
Then i take notes in a notebook and write what i did it to the prints with those numbers.
If i just want to note 19" @ f/8.....i simply write that on the back of the paper.
Is that bad.?

Is that bad? Not at all. Whatever works for you. I write the details I need to reproduce the print in the future without scratching my head about how I did it. I only write the type of paper and the developer because I sometimes use different combinations that I would not be able to identify later on. If you always use the same paper and developer then that information is not very relevant.