Check with LTI Lightside in nyc.
North Coast in Carlsbad CA
I own and operate a lab and an do darkroom contact prints if you want that. My default is digital prints, but if you want darkroom prints you can request them. https://www.simplephotographyservices.com/
Thanks, Adrian.
I own and operate a lab and an do darkroom contact prints if you want that. My default is digital prints, but if you want darkroom prints you can request them. https://www.simplephotographyservices.com/
Hi Adrian, what is your process for black and white processing? (Dip and dunk, Jobo, machine process, etc).
Thanks,
Dale
I'm going to post this in medium format film forum. Might be more people there who use labs. Thanks for comments here so far.
You should check ahead to be sure, but I believe Panopticon Imaging in Massachusetts still does contact sheets the old-fashioned way:
https://www.panopticonimaging.com/#/film-services/
JOBO at 24C with replenished Ilford Ilfotec DD. I used to run replenished XTOL, but given the recent Kodak XTOL problems, I just can’t rely on it right now. Once Kodak gets things straightened out, and can show that they have the situation under control, and can keep it under control, I might consider switching back, but for the foreseeable future, it’s Ilford DD. So far for the film I’ve run through it, I’m pretty happy with what I’m seeing. I bought enough DD that I’m set for a while. That being said, I really like replenished XTOL, so when Kodak gets things straightened out, it’ll warrant coming back under consideration.
for C-41, it’s all Kodak flexicolor chemistry. If Kodak ever gets around to making E-6 chemistry again, my E-6 would be that, but for the time being, I’ve been having good success with Tetenal E-6 chemistry.
I believe that Photolab in Berkeley CA does contact prints. I use them for processing.
Dale
Hi Oren. Panopticon looks good from their web site. Do you use them?
What is the current problem with Xtol?
Some of my b&w negs come back with pinkish tint. I've read that this is caused by inadequate fixing. Have also read this means the negs will degrade over time, which is upsetting to me, of course.
I'm going to post this in medium format film forum. Might be more people there who use labs. Thanks for comments here so far.
Please do not double post. There is no need. It just confuses everybody. (hint: hit the 'new posts' or 'today's post' buttons).
Click on the "Report post" link below your post, and then include your request for help with this in the window that opens up. That Report goes to the moderators, who will most likely have to involve the site owner Sean.Also -- I have chosen to NOT have my online status show in my privacy settings. But my online status does show. Can you fix that? Thanks.
Click on the "Report post" link below your post, and then include your request for help with this in the window that opens up. That Report goes to the moderators, who will most likely have to involve the site owner Sean.
kodak has recalled it multiple times in the past year or so. I’ve personally ended up with multiple purchases that had product that they’ve ended up replacing, and then the replacement product got recalled. Not good. I have a business to run and that sort of thing is extremely disruptive, and I sure as heck am not going to run customer film through product that has been recalled.
if they have a pinkish tint, it can only be two things. Either it wasn’t fixed long enough, or it wasn’t washed long enough. Which one it is depends on the fixer they use and what film you sent in. You can rewash them for 20-30 minutes in running water to see if it goes away. If it doesn’t, then a simple refix and rewash should do it. It’s not uncommon for a lab to cut the wash time down to the minimum, but if you find that the pink doesn’t go away from a rewash, that’s not a good sign. They should be leaving it in the fix long enough to completely fix it and get rid of the pink tinge for the films that behave that way. Some films need more time in the fixer than others, however all that being said, that doesn’t necessarily mean that the film wasn’t adequately fixed and will fade over time, it just means that it wasn’t left in long enough to clear the pink tinge. I’ve seen films come out of the fix that I know have been fixed long enough that are still pink, but after the wash, the pink is gone, and other films that come out of the fix that have no color at all. It just depends on the film.
turned out to be the hardener they were using
Thank you for the detailed explanation about the pinkish tint to negs. Sounds like there is hope that the negs are not necessarily going to degrade over time if they are pink. I would have to look into how to wash or refix if I wanted to do that.
I was involved in another thread here about the Ilford 120 mottling problem, and it sounds like film manufacturers have to constantly deal with materials changing or not being available these days. Apparently the mottling is related to the paper backing of the 120 film.
New Tri-X has pink cast to the base depending on developer used. Rodinal and xtol pretty much get rid of it. Alkaline fixer will also do better. Last step that always works is letting film soak. After washing just let it sit in plain water for 30 mins and watch all the dye come out. It’s crazy.kodak has recalled it multiple times in the past year or so. I’ve personally ended up with multiple purchases that had product that they’ve ended up replacing, and then the replacement product got recalled. Not good. I have a business to run and that sort of thing is extremely disruptive, and I sure as heck am not going to run customer film through product that has been recalled.
if they have a pinkish tint, it can only be two things. Either it wasn’t fixed long enough, or it wasn’t washed long enough. Which one it is depends on the fixer they use and what film you sent in. You can rewash them for 20-30 minutes in running water to see if it goes away. If it doesn’t, then a simple refix and rewash should do it. It’s not uncommon for a lab to cut the wash time down to the minimum, but if you find that the pink doesn’t go away from a rewash, that’s not a good sign. They should be leaving it in the fix long enough to completely fix it and get rid of the pink tinge for the films that behave that way. Some films need more time in the fixer than others, however all that being said, that doesn’t necessarily mean that the film wasn’t adequately fixed and will fade over time, it just means that it wasn’t left in long enough to clear the pink tinge. I’ve seen films come out of the fix that I know have been fixed long enough that are still pink, but after the wash, the pink is gone, and other films that come out of the fix that have no color at all. It just depends on the film.
We already have the forum "Availability"Suggest you add a forum about photo labs.
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