Lab for b&w that makes real darkroom contacts

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calico

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I didn't see a forum where this would fit, so I'm posting here. Maybe some of you who do your own developing have info.

I send my b&w film (35mm and medium format) off for developing and contacts. I'm considering leaving my current lab for various reasons. Looking for a good lab that makes real darkroom contact sheets. I don't want digital contacts made from scans which so many labs do. I don't want scans at all. Location doesn't matter, just so it's in the U.S.

So far, I've found online:

— Blue Moon Camera in Portland, Oregon.

— Silver Image in Chicago, IL.
Looks like an individual; you send the film to Printlab who gives the film to him.

— Praus Productions in Rochester, NY.
I used them many years ago, and the negs/contacts had a lot of dust. Could be different now.

— B&W Photo Lab in Portland, Maine.

— Dalmation Lab in Greensboro, NC.

If anyone has experience with any of these labs or if you have other recommendations, I'd love to hear.

Thanks.
 
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calico

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I'm going to post this in medium format film forum. Might be more people there who use labs. Thanks for comments here so far.
 

images39

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I believe that Photolab in Berkeley CA does contact prints. I use them for processing.

Dale
 

Adrian Bacon

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Hi Adrian, what is your process for black and white processing? (Dip and dunk, Jobo, machine process, etc).

Thanks,
Dale

JOBO at 24C with replenished Ilford Ilfotec DD. I used to run replenished XTOL, but given the recent Kodak XTOL problems, I just can’t rely on it right now. Once Kodak gets things straightened out, and can show that they have the situation under control, and can keep it under control, I might consider switching back, but for the foreseeable future, it’s Ilford DD. So far for the film I’ve run through it, I’m pretty happy with what I’m seeing. I bought enough DD that I’m set for a while. That being said, I really like replenished XTOL, so when Kodak gets things straightened out, it’ll warrant coming back under consideration.

for C-41, it’s all Kodak flexicolor chemistry. If Kodak ever gets around to making E-6 chemistry again, my E-6 would be that, but for the time being, I’ve been having good success with Tetenal E-6 chemistry.
 
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calico

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I'm going to post this in medium format film forum. Might be more people there who use labs. Thanks for comments here so far.

Post taken down there because duplicate post.
 
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calico

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JOBO at 24C with replenished Ilford Ilfotec DD. I used to run replenished XTOL, but given the recent Kodak XTOL problems, I just can’t rely on it right now. Once Kodak gets things straightened out, and can show that they have the situation under control, and can keep it under control, I might consider switching back, but for the foreseeable future, it’s Ilford DD. So far for the film I’ve run through it, I’m pretty happy with what I’m seeing. I bought enough DD that I’m set for a while. That being said, I really like replenished XTOL, so when Kodak gets things straightened out, it’ll warrant coming back under consideration.

for C-41, it’s all Kodak flexicolor chemistry. If Kodak ever gets around to making E-6 chemistry again, my E-6 would be that, but for the time being, I’ve been having good success with Tetenal E-6 chemistry.

Hi Adrian. What is the current problem with Xtol? That's what my current lab uses (LTI in NYC).

On another subject....and maybe I should create separate post about this, but......

Some of my b&w negs come back with pinkish tint. I've read that this is caused by inadequate fixing. Have also read this means the negs will degrade over time, which is upsetting to me, of course.

Do you (and others here who do their own developing) agree that the negs will degrade unless I refix them?

P.S. The recent negs with pinkish tint were Trix 400. But I seem to remember it happening with Tmax 400 in the past, too.

Thanks.
 
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Oren Grad

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Hi Oren. Panopticon looks good from their web site. Do you use them?

Last time I used them was about 30 years ago - yes, that's not a typo, I do mean thirty - when they were in a different location under different ownership, though the current owner was part of the staff back then. IIRC they have always positioned themselves as a high-end specialty lab that serves institutions and professional artists but is also open to the public. The owner also operates a small gallery in Boston: https://www.panopticongallery.com/. While that doesn't tell you how good their execution is today, it does at least speak to their aspirations.
 

Adrian Bacon

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What is the current problem with Xtol?

kodak has recalled it multiple times in the past year or so. I’ve personally ended up with multiple purchases that had product that they’ve ended up replacing, and then the replacement product got recalled. Not good. I have a business to run and that sort of thing is extremely disruptive, and I sure as heck am not going to run customer film through product that has been recalled.

Some of my b&w negs come back with pinkish tint. I've read that this is caused by inadequate fixing. Have also read this means the negs will degrade over time, which is upsetting to me, of course.

if they have a pinkish tint, it can only be two things. Either it wasn’t fixed long enough, or it wasn’t washed long enough. Which one it is depends on the fixer they use and what film you sent in. You can rewash them for 20-30 minutes in running water to see if it goes away. If it doesn’t, then a simple refix and rewash should do it. It’s not uncommon for a lab to cut the wash time down to the minimum, but if you find that the pink doesn’t go away from a rewash, that’s not a good sign. They should be leaving it in the fix long enough to completely fix it and get rid of the pink tinge for the films that behave that way. Some films need more time in the fixer than others, however all that being said, that doesn’t necessarily mean that the film wasn’t adequately fixed and will fade over time, it just means that it wasn’t left in long enough to clear the pink tinge. I’ve seen films come out of the fix that I know have been fixed long enough that are still pink, but after the wash, the pink is gone, and other films that come out of the fix that have no color at all. It just depends on the film.
 

BradS

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I'm going to post this in medium format film forum. Might be more people there who use labs. Thanks for comments here so far.


Please do not double post. There is no need. It just confuses everybody. (hint: hit the 'new posts' or 'today's post' buttons).
 
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calico

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Please do not double post. There is no need. It just confuses everybody. (hint: hit the 'new posts' or 'today's post' buttons).

Okay, no problem. I just thought I had chosen wrong forum for the question.
Suggest you add a forum about photo labs.

Also -- In my privacy settings, I chose to NOT have my online status show. But my online status does show. Can you fix that? Thanks.
 
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MattKing

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Also -- I have chosen to NOT have my online status show in my privacy settings. But my online status does show. Can you fix that? Thanks.
Click on the "Report post" link below your post, and then include your request for help with this in the window that opens up. That Report goes to the moderators, who will most likely have to involve the site owner Sean.
 
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calico

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Click on the "Report post" link below your post, and then include your request for help with this in the window that opens up. That Report goes to the moderators, who will most likely have to involve the site owner Sean.

Thanks, I just did that.
 
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calico

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kodak has recalled it multiple times in the past year or so. I’ve personally ended up with multiple purchases that had product that they’ve ended up replacing, and then the replacement product got recalled. Not good. I have a business to run and that sort of thing is extremely disruptive, and I sure as heck am not going to run customer film through product that has been recalled.

if they have a pinkish tint, it can only be two things. Either it wasn’t fixed long enough, or it wasn’t washed long enough. Which one it is depends on the fixer they use and what film you sent in. You can rewash them for 20-30 minutes in running water to see if it goes away. If it doesn’t, then a simple refix and rewash should do it. It’s not uncommon for a lab to cut the wash time down to the minimum, but if you find that the pink doesn’t go away from a rewash, that’s not a good sign. They should be leaving it in the fix long enough to completely fix it and get rid of the pink tinge for the films that behave that way. Some films need more time in the fixer than others, however all that being said, that doesn’t necessarily mean that the film wasn’t adequately fixed and will fade over time, it just means that it wasn’t left in long enough to clear the pink tinge. I’ve seen films come out of the fix that I know have been fixed long enough that are still pink, but after the wash, the pink is gone, and other films that come out of the fix that have no color at all. It just depends on the film.

Hi Adrian.

Interesting about Xtol. I wonder if the problems have affected the developing of any of my film (if my lab used the recalled Xtol unknowingly).

I did have huge problem with their developing of FP4, but that turned out to be the hardener they were using. Caused horrible residue on non-emulsion side of the film which could not be removed. Ruined 5 rolls of my 120 film. The residue was extreme. I spent a lot of time communicating with the lab and Ilford about it -- long emails, photos of the negs, phone calls. The lab was blaming Ilford, which seemed weird because it sure looked like a processing problem. Ilford was blaming the lab. The lab finally figured out it was related to a hardener. They were in touch with Ilford, so I guess Ilford helped them figure it out. The Kodak film they developed for me (and in same order) was fine. It was just the FP4 that had the residue.

At the same time, I was dealing with the Ilford 120 film mottling problem in my FP4 -- specs in emulsion side of film which look dark grey in the film and whitish in scans, which you may have heard about. Ilford has an announcement at their site about it from early last year. They say it can happen if film exposed to extreme temperatures or humidity or is expired. I was using expired film at times, but I care for my film very well (no humidity, let warm to room temp before using, etc).

So I thought I would be relieved of the problem if I did not use expired film. But I shot a roll of current film and still got the mottling. I sent it to a different lab, because I hadn't heard that previous lab had figured out their processing problem with FP4 (they never contacted me; I eventually contacted them).

I was involved in another thread here about the Ilford 120 mottling problem, and it sounds like film manufacturers have to constantly deal with materials changing or not being available these days. Apparently the mottling is related to the paper backing of the 120 film.

Now, though the residue issue has been explained, I'm afraid to use FP4 because of this mottling issue. Too bad, it's my favorite film.

Sorry, I digressed.....

Thank you for the detailed explanation about the pinkish tint to negs. Sounds like there is hope that the negs are not necessarily going to degrade over time if they are pink. I would have to look into how to wash or refix if I wanted to do that.
 
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Adrian Bacon

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turned out to be the hardener they were using

Waaaa?!?!?!?! There's no need for a hardener with modern films. They can either use a standard rapid fix (like Ilford Rapid Fixer), or if they want to, Ilford Hypam, but for any film that's been manufactured recently, there's no real need to use a hardener with the fix. That just complicates things. I use Ilford Rapid Fixer, and generally fix for the same amount of time as the development time as the minimum time to fix, though often go longer than that.

Thank you for the detailed explanation about the pinkish tint to negs. Sounds like there is hope that the negs are not necessarily going to degrade over time if they are pink. I would have to look into how to wash or refix if I wanted to do that.

Given what you said about the fix hardener issue with this particular lab, I'd be worried about the quality of the fix, but would still first just do a test wash with one roll to see if that makes a difference. You can do that by putting the roll (or a cut section of it if it's already cut) into a little pot or pan and put it under a water facet with the water turned on to a dribble. Once every 5 minutes or so, dump the water out, refill it, then put it back under the dribble of water. If you see little to no change after 20-30 minutes, it probably wasn't fixed long enough. To dry it back out with no spots, you can put a small drop of baby shampoo in the water at the end and mix it up. That will help with the spotting. Alternatively, if you determine you want to just get them re-fixed and re-washed, I'd be willing to do that if you didn't want to do it yourself. Just use the contact form on my website and we can work out how many rolls you need to have this done on and about what it'd cost to do. It's not difficult, but does use chemistry and does take time.

I was involved in another thread here about the Ilford 120 mottling problem, and it sounds like film manufacturers have to constantly deal with materials changing or not being available these days. Apparently the mottling is related to the paper backing of the 120 film.

Kodak has been putting what looks like a clear plastic coating on both sides of the backing paper and that seems to have fixed the issue. Ilford hasn't seemed to do that, but it looks like in order to completely get rid of it, they need to completely separate any printing on the paper from the emulsion via some barrier similar to what Kodak has done.
 

ericdan

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kodak has recalled it multiple times in the past year or so. I’ve personally ended up with multiple purchases that had product that they’ve ended up replacing, and then the replacement product got recalled. Not good. I have a business to run and that sort of thing is extremely disruptive, and I sure as heck am not going to run customer film through product that has been recalled.



if they have a pinkish tint, it can only be two things. Either it wasn’t fixed long enough, or it wasn’t washed long enough. Which one it is depends on the fixer they use and what film you sent in. You can rewash them for 20-30 minutes in running water to see if it goes away. If it doesn’t, then a simple refix and rewash should do it. It’s not uncommon for a lab to cut the wash time down to the minimum, but if you find that the pink doesn’t go away from a rewash, that’s not a good sign. They should be leaving it in the fix long enough to completely fix it and get rid of the pink tinge for the films that behave that way. Some films need more time in the fixer than others, however all that being said, that doesn’t necessarily mean that the film wasn’t adequately fixed and will fade over time, it just means that it wasn’t left in long enough to clear the pink tinge. I’ve seen films come out of the fix that I know have been fixed long enough that are still pink, but after the wash, the pink is gone, and other films that come out of the fix that have no color at all. It just depends on the film.
New Tri-X has pink cast to the base depending on developer used. Rodinal and xtol pretty much get rid of it. Alkaline fixer will also do better. Last step that always works is letting film soak. After washing just let it sit in plain water for 30 mins and watch all the dye come out. It’s crazy.
 
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