Kowa Six repair/restoration/overhaul

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Ronny H

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Hello Forum,

I bought a Kowa Six on eBay, which was sold as being in need of repair.

The small tooth on the claw that moves the gear wheel for the mirror mechanism was broken. I also cleaned the mirror damper.

I repaired that, but unfortunately I didn't take a photo of it. Everything is now working well again.

Now I'm replacing the light seals and have also removed the old leatherette and the adhesive.

The new leatherette is already there, but I want to polish the chrome-plated parts first.

Does anyone have any tips on how to stick the new leatherette on so that it is in the right position?

The groundscreen has large dust particles between the panes, can I dismantle it or should I leave it as it is?

Regards
 

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bernard_L

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Does anyone have any tips on how to stick the new leatherette on so that it is in the right position?

The pitfall here is if you use contact glue. If you start from one side just slightly misaligned, it will only get worse as you progress, with no way to adjust. My suggestion is as follows. First do a "dry" positioning of the leatherette, and secure it at both ends and near the middle with adhesive tape on the outside. Then undo the tapes at one end, and glue that side, in agreement with the rest still positioned by the adhesive tape. When that is done, and the start is securely glued, proceed to the rest of the leatherette.

This complication can be avoided if you use a glue that can be re-positioned during a minute or so. There has been a thread recently on the topic of leatherette fastening. Some favor Pliobond, others shellac, still others...
I have used shellac (old school, period correct) and also had good results with a glue made by SADER/BOSTIK called "High performance" "Special vibrations and high temperatures". Seems to be destined for, e.g. gluing the rubber gasket of a microwave oven or a fridge.

Goof luck!
 

OAPOli

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@Ronny H how did you repair the tooth? Braze a new one?

The condenser lens on the focus screen is held by paper shims on two sides (one the one I cleaned). You need a thin tool to wiggle them out. I found it difficult to reinsert one of the two shims afterwards so I made a slightly thinner one to properly hold the lens.
 

Paul Howell

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The small tooth on the claw that moves the gear wheel for the mirror mechanism was broken.

Where did you find the replacement gear wheel?
 
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Ronny H

Ronny H

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The pitfall here is if you use contact glue. If you start from one side just slightly misaligned, it will only get worse as you progress, with no way to adjust. My suggestion is as follows. First do a "dry" positioning of the leatherette, and secure it at both ends and near the middle with adhesive tape on the outside. Then undo the tapes at one end, and glue that side, in agreement with the rest still positioned by the adhesive tape. When that is done, and the start is securely glued, proceed to the rest of the leatherette.

This complication can be avoided if you use a glue that can be re-positioned during a minute or so. There has been a thread recently on the topic of leatherette fastening. Some favor Pliobond, others shellac, still others...
I have used shellac (old school, period correct) and also had good results with a glue made by SADER/BOSTIK called "High performance" "Special vibrations and high temperatures". Seems to be destined for, e.g. gluing the rubber gasket of a microwave oven or a fridge.

Goof luck!
I bought pre-cut, self-adhesive leatherette. But the tip about the adhesive tape is very good. Thank you.


@Ronny H how did you repair the tooth? Braze a new one?

The condenser lens on the focus screen is held by paper shims on two sides (one the one I cleaned). You need a thin tool to wiggle them out. I found it difficult to reinsert one of the two shims afterwards so I made a slightly thinner one to properly hold the lens.
Yes, I had a blop welded onto it and ground it into shape.
Alex Varas had already described this in a thread.

I'll probably leave the screen as it is for now. If it bothers me too much, I'll clean it. Thanks to you too.
 
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Ronny H

Ronny H

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The small tooth on the claw that moves the gear wheel for the mirror mechanism was broken.

Where did you find the replacement gear wheel?
It was not the gear that was broken but the tooth of the claw.
I have not yet found any spare parts for the camera.

Here is the link to the topic:

 
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Ronny H

Ronny H

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Re: the Fresnel: No solvent. No ultra-sound. Just warm (not hot) de-mineralized water a mild detergent.
How do I know? 😣
I think you destroyed one.🙈

I read very often that you have to be very careful with the ground glass, but I cleaned the ground glass from my Flexaret with isopropyl alcohol (something 60 years of cigarette smoke). Nothing happened, just clean.
 

Paul Howell

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It was not the gear that was broken but the tooth of the claw.
I have not yet found any spare parts for the camera.

Here is the link to the topic:


The claw needs to replaced, what is the likelihood that a generic claw can be found, or will you need to buy another parts camera? Here in the U.S Ross Yerkes in LA obaine a large number of Kowa parts and was an authorized repair center before Kowa left the market. He might a replacement, but be warned he often included racist and sexist literature when he returns cameras. I last used Ross about 15 years ago, had my SL66 overhauled along with a 55mm lens, did a good job, decent rates and only the invoice. If you are go inclined to contact him:

 
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Ronny H

Ronny H

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The claw needs to replaced, what is the likelihood that a generic claw can be found, or will you need to buy another parts camera? Here in the U.S Ross Yerkes in LA obaine a large number of Kowa parts and was an authorized repair center before Kowa left the market. He might a replacement, but be warned he often included racist and sexist literature when he returns cameras. I last used Ross about 15 years ago, had my SL66 overhauled along with a 55mm lens, did a good job, decent rates and only the invoice. If you are go inclined to contact him:

Thank you for your answer.
In my case, the claw did not have to be replaced, it could be repaired.
I did it the way Alex Varas described it in his thread (which I linked to).
It works very well. I ran an old film through about twenty times with no problems.


For those who also need to redo the tooth: it must not be too big. You have to work very precisely, otherwise the claw will get stuck on a catch. See pic
 

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Ronny H

Ronny H

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It's almost done. The only thing missing is a handle for the left side. Maybe I can find a cheap one.
Now I hope that I have done everything right with the light seal and that there is no light incidence.
I'm going to expose some film this weekend.
I can't wait to see how it turns out.

A few pictures of the camera:
 

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Ronny H

Ronny H

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It looks really nice! Where did you get the new skin from?
Yes, the left handle is super helpful for this camera. Watch out the cable is there and it works.
Thanks Alex.
I got the leatherette from eBay. The seller is lou2008. When buying, leave the number of the desired color as a comment

I chose "peacock green", but "dark cyan" would also have been nice.
I have 2, a 66 and a super 66, the 85 2.8 is a very good lens.
I hope I can use the potential. I need to get used to analog photography again, I haven't done that for over 20 years.
 

Philippe-Georges

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To stick (back) the leatherette I use Industrial grade Pressure Sensitive Double Tape from 3M. It is very thin, transparent, stick very (to-) good and can be removed rather easily by rubbing it off, but it can't be repositioned so you will have to stick the pieces right away on the correct place...
 
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Ronny H

Ronny H

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To stick (back) the leatherette I use Industrial grade Pressure Sensitive Double Tape from 3M. It is very thin, transparent, stick very (to-) good and can be removed rather easily by rubbing it off, but it can't be repositioned so you will have to stick the pieces right away on the correct place...

Is there an exact name for it to find the right one?
My wife has a cutting machine and I'm thinking of having her cut me a new skin for my Flexaret.
Thanks in advance
 

Philippe-Georges

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Is there an exact name for it to find the right one?
My wife has a cutting machine and I'm thinking of having her cut me a new skin for my Flexaret.
Thanks in advance

Hallo Ronny,

I bought it long time ago, when I was shooting aeroplanes (*) and a saw a mechanic repairing a linnen covering with it, so I thought it must be good, strong and safe.
I found a roll and it was wrapped in shrink foil with a label with ref. codes on it, which I don't have anymore. So here is a picture of the inner side of the coil, that's all I can give.


3M TAPE.jpg


(*) http://www.photoeil.be/commercial-work/aeroplanes.html
 
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Ronny H

Ronny H

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Thanks for the picture. Let's see if I can still find something like that. It is the case with many good things that production is discontinued and the subsequent product is worse or doesn't exist.

By the way, very nice pictures!
 
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Ronny H

Ronny H

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@Ronny H I have a grip for sale in the classifieds. The threads on my Kowa body are damaged so I can't use a release cable.
Thank you for the offer. Unfortunately, I am not yet allowed to write private messages or reply in the classifieds.
I have to write 20 posts before I can do this(I think).
Not so easy for me, either I can help, but there were quite a few faster than me or I have no idea.🤔

I think you destroyed one.🙈

I read very often that you have to be very careful with the ground glass, but I cleaned the ground glass from my Flexaret with isopropyl alcohol (something 60 years of cigarette smoke). Nothing happened, just clean.
Update: since the screen of the Kowa is made of plastic and not glass like the Flexaret, I didn't use isopropyl alcohol but lighter fluid and a sensor cleaning swab.🙈
 

Alex Varas

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I will keep and eye on this, usually I check from time to time about Kowa parts and some customers warn me when something pops up all over EU. Since you are in Germany it shouldn’t be a problem with shipping and/or customs.
 
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