Kowa Six help

campy51 · Aug 28, 2017

I received a Kowa Six from a ebay auction and the cosmetics are near mint but when I put a roll of film in and start shooting the winder locks up after just a couple of shots. If I open the film door and close it will release the winding knob. If I take the film out it works every time. It also seems to work with film in it but the lens off. Is it the lens or the body? It breaks my heart to have to send it back because of the condition of the body and lens being near mint.

Paul Howell · Aug 28, 2017

What film? I cannot shoot HP5 as it will not cock the shutter, have no issues with Tmax or Foma, just Ilford.

Barry Kirsten · Aug 28, 2017

Hi Campy, I've had a Kowa 6 and also have a Super 66 at the moment. That doesn't make me an expert, and I'm not sure I have the answer for you here. But firstly I'd check very carefully that the lens is securely locked in place, with the locking ring all the way home. For the lens to mount correctly the two pins have to be rotated around to the index marks, and I assume you do this. Also it's important with these cameras to wind on completely, because if not the button will not 'fire' for the next exposure. I'm not sure this is the answer to your problem, but from past experience I feel that it has something to do with the correct mating of the lens with the body. I hope this helps, and if I can think or anything else I'll let you know.

Sirius Glass · Aug 28, 2017

Sounds like it needs a CLA. Return it. Unfortunately if a camera sits for many years thing get gummed up by the lubrication. You do not know what it will cost to have it clean and adjusted. Get one from KEH.com.

campy51 · Aug 28, 2017

I am using old outdated film and here's what I did. I put a roll in and fired off 2 shots and then the knob locked and won't rotate, so I opened up the back and closed it and the rest of the roll fired normal. I am very confused that it won't work with film loaded but works fine without it. Fires and winds every time.

btaylor · Aug 28, 2017

Old cameras are always a shot in the dark. I always budget for a CLA even when the ad says "works perfectly, no CLA needed!" because they usually do anyway. Even if you get one that works great today, it may not next week. There is a guy in Los Angeles that is a former Kowa factory service tech. I suspect about $200-250 would be needed to get things back to new. It's a really nice camera, I used to own a few.

paul ron · Aug 29, 2017

it could be the frame counter mechanism. seems when you open the door, it resets the counter back to zero n works again.

it would be worth fixing.
but fixing cost vs what you paid for it is something you must decide. but when purchasing kowas that are known for a few flaws, the price of the repair should always be considered to bring your camera up to par. once repaired, it should extend the life of the camera for reliable service for a good long time. when sending it in for repair, be sure to ask to have the winding mechanism upgraded... that's their major Achilles problem.

campy51 · Aug 29, 2017

I paid $175 and it is a conservative 9 condition cosmetically and it was supposedly a back up camera. My problem is I will use it very rarely and will mostly display it in my small old camera collection I have. I would hate to have to spend another couple of hundred to have Ross Yerkes overhaul it.

paul ron · Aug 29, 2017

that's a great price, you could probably recoup most if not all of that on resale down the road, especially in a 9 condition for an overhauled camera.

I'll tell ya, once you get to use it, it has a way of growing on ya.

otherwise... sell it for what you paid for it... OR... return it for a refund n lose the postage costs?

I know its a tough spot to be in... been there.

campy51 · Aug 31, 2017

I am sending it back for a refund. Didn't want to put the money into considering all the Bronica and Mamiya's out there. I also have my eye on a Tachihara 4x5, just waitng to hear back on my offer.

btaylor · Aug 31, 2017

I think you made the right decision.

For me, I found the ergonomics with the side grip to be just about perfect and it was wonderfully compact. To be honest I thought the Six handled better than my Hasselblad. But it didn't light your fire, so move on.

Sirius Glass · Aug 31, 2017

You made the best decision.

hungvantran · Jan 2, 2026

Paul Howell said:
What film? I cannot shoot HP5 as it will not cock the shutter, have no issues with Tmax or Foma, just Ilford.

Why does it matter what film type that you use?

Paul Howell · Jan 2, 2026

hungvantran said:
Why does it matter what film type that you use?

I think it is the thickness of the paper backing, the HP 5 I used seems to be thinner, so the shutter is not cocked as the film is advanced. I have not used HP 5 or PF 4 in a very long time, have never used Delta in 120, might get a roll of 120 next to I buy film to see if it is still an issue.

Daybreak135 · Jan 2, 2026

campy51 said:
I am sending it back for a refund. Didn't want to put the money into considering all the Bronica and Mamiya's out there. I also have my eye on a Tachihara 4x5, just waitng to hear back on my offer.

Honestly I would have done the same as well. Sometimes it’s not worth the trouble to fix or troubleshoot.

Paul Howell · Jan 3, 2026

This thread is now 8 years old, wonder if OP found a replacement.

campy51 · Jan 4, 2026

Paul Howell said:
This thread is now 8 years old, wonder if OP found a replacement.

I have found two, but only need one body if anyone is interested.

OAPOli · Jan 4, 2026

@Paul Howell I think something else is going on with your Kowa. Mine will work fine even if I load a roll of only backing paper.

PS. The difference between Kodak and Ilford paper is 0.01mm.

Paul Howell · Jan 4, 2026

I need to check to see if I have same issue with my Super, not sure why I did not check at the time, just stopped using ILford as I had a lot of Ultrfine at the time.

Kino · Jan 4, 2026

Paul Howell said:
I need to check to see if I have same issue with my Super, not sure why I did not check at the time, just stopped using ILford as I had a lot of Ultrfine at the time.

Don't mean to be insulting but the Kowa 6 has an adjustable pressure plate for 120 vs 220; can you confirm it is in the 120 position?

You might be able to run the HP5 in the 220 plate position, but leave the frame counter in the 120 position.

Sirius Glass · Jan 4, 2026

hungvantran said:
Why does it matter what film type that you use?

Welcome to Photrio!

hungvantran · Jan 4, 2026

OAPOli said:
@Paul Howell I think something else is going on with your Kowa. Mine will work fine even if I load a roll of only backing paper.

PS. The difference between Kodak and Ilford paper is 0.01mm.

I have tried both Ilford and Kodak and it jammed in both instances: sometimes on the first frame, other times around the forth frame. I have seen so many different theories about this problem. I decided to leave it to the service man. He reckoned it's the mirror box spring needed a replacement. For my lenses 135, 85, and 50, the cocking of the lens is quite stiff, and when it is uncocked manually the two pins moved away from the index dots just a little. The repair man is just going to clean and lube only the hellicoid of the lens. I questioned him if he does that only does that service fix the stiffness of the lens cocking. He said that he will check and test. What are your thoughts/experiences?

OAPOli · Jan 4, 2026

@hungvantran I've only worked on the Kowa lenses/shutters so I don't know what would jam the advance.

The cocking plate rides on ball bearings so it should be smooth. The problem could be inside the shutter. It's normal for the pins to move just a little when releasing manually; the body will drive them properly. Servicing the helicoid can address stiffness in the focusing but is unrelated to the shutter mechanism.

Kino · Jan 4, 2026

hungvantran said:
I have tried both Ilford and Kodak and it jammed in both instances: sometimes on the first frame, other times around the forth frame. I have seen so many different theories about this problem. I decided to leave it to the service man. He reckoned it's the mirror box spring needed a replacement. For my lenses 135, 85, and 50, the cocking of the lens is quite stiff, and when it is uncocked manually the two pins moved away from the index dots just a little. The repair man is just going to clean and lube only the hellicoid of the lens. I questioned him if he does that only does that service fix the stiffness of the lens cocking. He said that he will check and test. What are your thoughts/experiences?

If the lens is sticky and the cocking ring pins that mate to the camera body, do not fully return to their open position, then the camera refuses to advance.

Try dismounting the lens and pushing the pins to seat them fully open (check mating ring as well and turn to full open), remount the lens and then see if the camera will advance. if this proves to be the case, you might be able to exercise the lens shutter off of the camera body by manually cocking the shutter with the pin ring and pressing the small release pin on the edge of the mount. You might have to push the ring through it's range, but that won't hurt the lens.

I think you are on the right path; try getting the lens cocking mechanism serviced and hopefully you won't have to have the lenses serviced as well. It is a combination of the spring power of the camera body and the lens shutter release mechanism that returns the plate to the proper position. If either one is weak, it may jam the camera.

Paul Howell · Jan 4, 2026

Kino said:
Don't mean to be insulting but the Kowa 6 has an adjustable pressure plate for 120 vs 220; can you confirm it is in the 120 position?

You might be able to run the HP5 in the 220 plate position, but leave the frame counter in the 120 position.

It is in the 120 position, the issue came about 10 years ago, I never got around to checking the Super as I shot Ultrafine and Tmax now Foma without issues. 80% of the time I take the Kowa SS as it is bit lighter than the Super with the interchangeable backs.

Kowa Six help

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