Kodak Tri-X Exposure Question

Hello,

I recently exposed a few rolls of Tri-x in 35mm, rated at 400 ISO, in a brightish room with a TTL metering flash unit. For what it’s worth, I used a Contax SLR with their TLA 30 flash.

Now, on reflection, I think I strayed a little too close to my subject in relation to the aperture settings. I shot at f5.6 and f8 for a while and, having checked the flash guide for that model, I should have set the aperture to f11 for the distance I was shooting from.

My question is this:

Will the flash have automatically shut itself off when it produced enough light for an exposure at 400ISO, or will it have over-exposed as I was too close to the subject?

I’m now unsure whether to develop the film at 200 ISO or 400. Due to my indecision, I’m planning to develop with ID-11 as opposed to Rodinal, as I think it may be more forgiving if I’m a bit out.

Any advice most gratefully received.

Peter

I don't know the details of your equipment but if it is TTL or any other kind of auto mode flash then you need to estimate the distance you were from the subject when you strayed too close, and look at the exposure table/graph for your strobe. The TTL/Auto works (meaning, shuts downthe flash when proper exposure is achieved) within specific distance ranges for each aperture. If you are not within that range then you'll possible not get proper exposure. Too close and the strobe might not be able to shut down fast enough and expose too much; too far away and the strobe will give it al it has then shut down without properly exposing.

The automatic exposure ranges often overlap considerably... so thats why it is important for you to look at the data table/graph for your specific equipment.

B&W film is rather forgiving so hopefully you can get usable negs without too much processing adjustments.

Hello Peter;
Yes you have overexposed your film. Seeing how you are located in England I would use Ilford Perceptol. This is a developer simular to Kodak Microdol-X and will give you a loss of speed with normal development. The other plus is smaller grain size. I used this combination when I shot Tri-X. Good luck, Steven.

At 1 stop overexposure you are well within the film's latitude. I would develop the film normally as ISO 400. Even at 2 stops overexposure you can still easily print through the extra density. I wouldn't change the recommended development time as this also changes contrast.

Peter - if over exposed, you might take 20 - 30% off the normal development time to hold back the highlights (especially the ones you "created" by the hot flash) no matter what developer you choose. The lower values won't be a problem if they come up a stop or so, but the highlights would be a bear to print.
In the old days of B&W wedding photography, 80% of normal development was common practice, and that's with correct exposure. Plus, you can always increase the contrast in printing.

Well, Gerald and I double teamed you - with different advice. Don't you love it?