My worst nightmare was having TMAX-100 in the camera when shooting Maria Muldaur on stage at an intimate venue where there wasn't enough light for that film and getting called out for it. "
For 35mm I prefer to have my nature photography shot on fine grain film so I keep TMAX-100 handy. For 4x5 the additional sharpness of TMAX-400 gives me just what I want so that is all I use. For 35mm, I feel my prints lose out on some of the detail I like when I shoot TMAX-400. The gamble I have to take is, what kind of light and will I have a tripod. My worst nightmare was having TMAX-100 in the camera when shooting Maria Muldaur on stage at an intimate venue where there wasn't enough light for that film and getting called out for it. Now in my dreams I still see the glaring scowl and hear the contemptuous "What are you doing?"
It needs to be metered more carefully than the other two films you mentioned, esp for shadow placement. But then you get far better shadow gradation in high contrast scenes, because TMY has a steeper toe and overall longer straight line. It's also a higher acutance film. I shoot it in all formats from 35mm to 8X10, and develop in PMK pyro. HP5 has lovely "watercolor"grain in modest enlagement, but this starts looking mushy around 4X, so I never shoot it in any format other than 8x10, and only for modest-contrast scenes, unless I mask it, which I have often done. I've never cared much for the gritiness of Tri-X, but did print a little of it last week. I think TMY is far more versatle if you have a spotmeter.
Who called you out and why?
TMAX is so smooth and clean
I like Tmax400 for its smooth skin tones and high density range.Hi APUG,
I'm thinking of switching my daily film to Kodak T-Max 400. Can anyone comment or link me to a site that sums up its characteristics/tonality (aside from the finer grain)? (I was/am a regular HP5+ and Tri-X 400 shooter.)
Thanks!
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