Not a Kodak machine but I've used large Pako machines, and on occasion, table-top units.
They are effective, its about the most painless way to get a good glossy surface (Fiber paper only!!). Much easier than using a ferrotype tin.
The print will not be flat, it will be curved in the shape of the drum after drying. Since its the emulsion side that promotes the curve, you get a double effect. OTH if you like a semi-mat surface drying the prints face out will have them about as flat as a fiber print ever is.
Putting prints on the dryer cross-ways to the paper grain will help make the flatter.
Sometimes a print will stick if the drum isn't clean.
If you are looking at a used one, (seems likely) then you will want to examine it carefully for scratches which will mar the surface of your print.
The apron on any drier is probably the biggest problem area, as they need to be washed periodically, otherwise they could contaminate the prints. Though, in theory, only fully washed prints ever contact it. The apron will typically shrink a bit in washing, so putting it back on is sometimes a challenge.
