Rocketcheese
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A pretty good substitute for the punch is making 3/4" x 1.5" tabs out of scrap film, punching a 1/4" hole in the ends and taping them to the edge of a negative. An office paper punch works. I do not know if you can still buy individual pins from a printers supply.
Only the punching pattern is different
It isn't, the main difference (I think) is that one is Eastman Kodak and the other Kodak Ltd (and there are others from Billows Protocol etc on the same spacing).
Depends on how small you need to go, Bob. All my own micro-pin sheet film-sized (up to 8X10) registration gear was either made by Condit or myself. My mid sized gear came from Ternes Burton in the US Midwest - excellent service. They can also make pin bars for almost any punch system if you submit them a dimensionally stable punched sample, preferably on thin brass shim stock, or else thick mylar.
Larger diam. punch patterns generally have a combination of round and oval indexing pins, anywhere from 3 to 12 or more. Generally, tolerances need to be within .002 inch. But certain processes, like gum printing, simply can't hold that tightness of detail anyway.
One day I'll think of a satisfactory way to get hold of or make a bunch of appropriate pins
I have used the Billows Protocol system but it was much larger and had some automation if I remember correctly. A foot control for the punching part. Used for B1 sized plates for very large 7 colour machines and mostly for SRA1 sheets but also B1.
Well, it's not something I think they've ever listed on their website. I've been purchasing paper from them for >10 years.Polymetaal would be as good a first port-of-call as any.
For that purpose, you'd ideally use a negative carrier with in-built registration system and the accompanying punch. The kind of Kodak punch I've got here seems more suited for assembly of layered prints; work like dye transfer etc.The main use for such a punch that I've read about is for masking: combining a negative and a positive film in the enlarger.
Well, it's not something I think they've ever listed on their website.
For that purpose, you'd ideally use a negative carrier with in-built registration system and the accompanying punch. The kind of Kodak punch I've got here seems more suited for assembly of layered prints; work like dye transfer etc.
I might, although I don't expect I will anytime soon. I have to admit that my willingness to pay would be less than what I paid for the punch. I don't think it's realistic to expect anyone to do a custom job at that rate, so for now I'm mostly interested in DIY solutions.I'd still ask them.
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