Kodak RA4 Dev/Blix Replenisher - Smaller batch measurements

[lilserenity]

Hiya,

I have been using the RA4 replinisher from Kodak for Dev and Blix to process Supra Endura (what I have left) at cooler temps (20-24 deg C) but have had to make up the full 5litre Dev and Blix each time.

I have some Tetenal Protectan so I am hoping to mix up a smaller batch tonight of 1l Dev and 1l Blix. Only problem is the bottles for each bit don't actually say how much in millitres of fl. oz is in each bottle to be able to pair each constituent part of the dev/blix down to 1/5th the amount easily.

Does anyone have the measurements for each part as it were to make up 1L of working solution?

Thanks,
Vicky

 

[Mike Wilde]

I dont have my notes here with me at work, but the Kodak RA-4 developer sets I have worked with the developer replenisher concentrates comes in A, B and C bottles, with B being the colour developer.

I worked out the ratios when the bottles were full. I am pretty sure the A and C use 50mL/L and the B was something likel 23.5mL/L. This gives you replenisher, which can be used directly, or it can be diluted somewhat and a bit of starter added to '-pre season it'. I go the starter route and add in the replenisher at a rate of 20mL per 8x10.

Blix replensiher is also the working strength.

Both dev and blix can be replenished at a rate of 20mL per litre.

If you are just deevloping in a tray or tube for a small number of prints, not replenishing will not be a big deal, particularly if you are using the dev replenisher undiluted.

 

[brucemuir]

Here are my numbers and per usual Mike is pretty spot on:

Ektacolor RA Developer Replenisher RT
#841 5580

To make 1 L repleniser working solution:
650ml water@ 70-90F
A 50ml
B 22.2ml
C 50ml

water to 1 litre



Ektacolor RA Bleach Fix
Kodak # 830 9031

To make 1 litre

650ml water @ 70-100F

A 140ml
B 200ml


Water to 1 litre

These have worked well for me.
My Ra4 workflow is at room temp in trays (64f-70f depending) and I'm not using any starter at all.

 

[Tom Taylor]

You can also download a 10 page pdf: cis 49 "Preparing Smaller-Than-Package-Size Amounts of KODAK Processing Chemicals" from the Kodak website. It gives mixing instructions for making 1-Liter of replenisher solution for each of their chemicals.

Keep in mind that when you make a replenisher you must then make a working solution from that replenisher. So if you're aiming or 1-liter of working solution, you'll have to do the math to determine how much replenisher you need to mix. I keep a printed copy with the correct amounts penciled in.

Thomas

 

[Photo Engineer]

You can use the RA-RT developer replenisher without dilution or without starter.

The blix does not need starter.

PE

 

[lilserenity]

Many thanks for the replies, very helpful indeed. Indeed I can use these solutions 'neat' without any need for a starter etc. It was just a bit hard to work out what would be 1/5th of the bottle contents without measuring each one and as I am a wuss considering some of these things have a very acidic pH I thought I'd ask if anyone had gone to the trouble before.

Many many thanks, I should now be able to make much more economical use of the chemicals, and much easier to store too!

Thanks again, really really indebted as ever!

Vicky

 

[hrst]

In my experience the opened developer concentrate may die in less time than the diluted solution. To be more specific: when I mixed the last batch, I found out that the developer concentrate was dead. It was about 6-9 month old. I still had some diluted solution that was the first batch from the same concentrates, thus being same age, and it was perfectly ok.

This is probably because it's almost impossible to displace all the air in the small concentrate bottle. You may need a nitrogen cabinet. But it is very easy to displace most of the air from a big PET soda bottle.

I started mixing full 5 liters at a time since then. Using distilled water and storing them at a little cooler place would probably extend the life even more, I'd guess. I have found out by methodical testing that storing XTOL in refrigerator extends its life by many times, and I'd guess this would apply to all developers, provided that you make sure you don't precipitate them by too cold storage.

 

[Mike Wilde]

You may want to move the B concentrate into a small glass bottle (or series of bottles) to cut the amount of gas being pulled in though the plastic containers.

I have used 32mL amber and blues glass left overs from essential oils that I have bought and used up in soap making, another hobby.

Thanks for the usually right comment, Bruce.

 

[brucemuir]

Can you use canned air (dust off) type for the solution B component?

My kit is getting towards 3-4 months old and I am getting nervous. The mixed developer does seem to be robust.

How do you know you got enough dust off in there...does it just need to form a barrier. I've tried squirting dust off in bottles before but was unsure the best way, seems it tough to cap it fast enough.

 

[fotch]

If the gas is heavier than air, as long as you get enough in the bottle, it doesn't matter if some air is on top when you cap it. The gas is a barrier.