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Kodak Polymax Fine Art

Joe Dahlgren

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Medium Format
Has anyone that used to print with Kodak Polymax Fine Art, fiber paper found a suitable replacement?
Thanks
 
Joe,
After my supply of Polymax Fine Art ran out, I went back to using Oriental Seagull VC. However, they seem to keep changing the "formula" -- it seems different every time I buy it (I generally buy about 200-400 sheets at a time).

At this time, I've settled on using the new Adox MCC 110, available from Freestyle. It's a re-introduced version of Agfa Multicontrast Classic, only on a bright white paper base rather than the original's natural white base. It's a very, very fine paper -- check out other threads.

John Clark
www.johndclark.com
 
I have yet to find anything to replace it. But as already posted I have heard good things about the new MCC 110. I plan to try it soon.
 

That probably depends on who's paper they are re-branding at the time

Ian
 
I went to Kentmere Fineprint glossy VCFB and have been very happy for 3-4 years. I use it for 7x17 contact prints and 8x10 enlargements to 20x24 the limit I can comfortably handle in my darkroom.

I just ordered some 16x20 for a series and discovered that B&H ships that size free to Ohio. You will have to see if other vendors are doing that and if your location (not mentioned) is covered.

John Powers
 
You might want to give Adorama's house brand papers a try. I've gone through a couple of sample packs and I'm very pleased with the product. If you're on a budget, and spending big bucks on "boutique" brands isn't your thing, this might be the solution you're looking for.

Dead Link Removed
 
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Kentmere FR VC is the closest match. I used to use Polymax and then tested most of the papers available at Freestyle. The Adox paper mentioned is visibly warmer than Kentmere.
 
The Adox MCC 110 before toning is considerably warmer (although not as warm as a warmtone paper) than Polymax, however, when toned in selenium toner 1:19 for 3-5 minutes it is much more neutral. In 1:9 selenium toner beyond about 3-4 minutes it has the appearance of being split toned, and more than 5 it turns an unpleasant (to me) reddish brown.

John Clark
www.johndclark.com
 
Thank you everyone for the recommendations. I will have to get over to Freestyle and check out what they have.

John, what developer are you using with the Adox?

Sal, is Neutol NE, the same dev as Neutol Plus?
Thanks again to all
 
Joe Dahlgren said:
...Sal, is Neutol NE, the same dev as Neutol Plus?...
Click to expand...
No, they're completely different. Neutol Plus (apparently now discontinued) was ascorbic-based and had a reputation for poor shelf life. Neutol NE seems very similar to Neutol WA in keeping and capacity, but provides an extremely neutral image tone with MCC 110.
 
Joe Dahlgren said:
John, what developer are you using with the Adox?
Click to expand...

Joe, I have been using Zone VI developer, available (at least, the last time I looked) from Calumet. I generally mix several gallons at a time, and store it in quart-sized (one serving for a gallon of working developer) brown glass bottles.

Let me say this, I wouldn't call MCC 110 a warmtone paper, but when compared side-by-side with Polymax, Oriental Seagull VC, and several other papers, it's more on the brownish side rather than blue or greenish. Without toning, the brownish appearance of the paper is quite appealing, and in other threads some are not toning the paper.

John Clark
www.johndclark.com
 
Victors intensifier. Look up the formula and you can get the chemicals from ARTCRAFT.

This boosts contrast many grades and you can wash off with fix.

One ingredient is hardardous so mix outside and keep bare fingers out. Marvelous stuff guaranteed.
 
Oriental Seagull Grade 2 looks very similar when developed in Dektol and toned. I know this isn't a polygrade paper, but for aesthetic similarity it's close.
 
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