Kodak Medalist

[1920]

Hi guys- just getting all my analog photo gear out of storage after 12 years…setting up enlargers, looking at cameras (I have a Shen-hao 4x5, an FM, some old folders)…one of the cameras I was planning on getting running but never got around to it is the Kodak Medalist- medium format (620) RF with a (by all accounts excellent) 100mm lens.

Anyone have experience with this camera? Thinking of getting a CLA and feed-side 120 conversion done to it…but its gonna be spendy.

I can't justify the expense for a novelty, but if I can make this my MF workhorse camera- I do love the feel of it, and the RF focussing is great-

Anyone have experience actually trying to shoot various subjects with one of these old Kodak Medalists? Thoughts?

 

[Hatchetman]

well.....re-roll or buy some 620 film and see if you like using it. Assuming the shutter works at all.

I have mixed feelings about my Medalist II. It is compact and the lens is very good. But it is hard to hold while shooting and there is no stop at infinity: you have carefully focus at infinity. crazy. unless there is some trick I don't know.

 

[1920]

Hmm- that is weird, I had no idea- playing around with the camera now…..the shutter is pretty sticky but I might be able to get a roll through it

 

[snapguy]

no net

You are doing a trapeze act without a net under you. But that's why it's fun, isn't it? Any idjut can buy a boring new camera and snap away. Good luck.

 

[macfred]

One of my flickr friends got a Medalist II (120 conversion) - really like the results :
https://www.flickr.com/photos/daiku_san/sets/72157645017522831/

 

[Trask]

I've successfully re-rolled 120 film onto a 620 core -- not hard to do, but I do find that I have to untape the film from the backing paper because in re-rolling the film bunches up into a little bump at the tape point. So I untape, flatten the film and retape, and everything works fine. The Medalist lens is very sharp, but I agree it can feel odd in the hand.

 

[JW PHOTO]

The Medalist I and II are the best of the best. Built very well and built to last. No cheap plastic on this baby and the lens is worth the weight in gold of the camera. Of course, like has been said already, "It's a pain in the butt to hold and shoot hand-held". I don't know how those Navy and especially Marine combat photographers could shoot it while somebody was shooting back. I think it has more to do with the very smooth leather covering on the camera and I actually would recover mine with a covering of more grip if I used it more. Re-spooling is not hard and once you get used to it a roll is only a two minute job. I also loosen and reapply the tape. The old Supermatic shutter usually response very well to a flush with lighter fluid or Naphtha. The front lens group unscrews right out of the shutter body. You might have to use a small strap wrench on it, but it will come out. The rear is removed with a spanner. I have flushed them by just taking out the front group, tilting the camera(lens/shutter down) and using a hypo full of Naphtha or even a lighter fluid can to shoot a stream into the slots on the shutter. Then, with the camera still tilted down, keep working the shutter through the slow speeds and it should free up. If not, it will need a service job. You might get a little fluid sprayed on the inside element of the rear lens, but this can be cleaned off very carefully with lens cleaning fluid and tissue. If you really want to get into it you can get a Military repair manual of the auction site, but be prepared for hours of fun figuring this baby out. It's a much more complicated camera than it looks, but I still love it. Kodak did make PRO cameras at one time, that's for sure. John W

 

[removed account4]

ken ruth at bald mountain photography does a spectacular job
you might contact him if you want to have someone who is an expert
do the job
http://www.baldmtn.com

 

[JW PHOTO]

ken ruth at bald mountain photography does a spectacular job
you might contact him if you want to have someone who is an expert
do the job
http://www.baldmtn.com

+2

 

[Hatchetman]

When re-spooling, I use two 620 spools and never have issues with the tape. roll on, roll off.

 

[1920]

hmmm

Guys thanks you so much for all the responses-

I dunno, I kinda feel like I am steadier hand holding with heavier cameras- I admit, this is a weird one- for lack of a better term the thing just feels dense. A high quality piece of gear for sure.I have some Tri-x and 2 of the metal 620 spools- I will try and respell and run a roll through- maybe try and work the shutter with some lighter fluid as someone suggested.

I have been in touch with Ken Ruth- thats the conversion I was thinking of having done (I would do feed side only)- along with a CLA rangefinder cal.

One thing that struck me looking at the Flicker shots from the Medalist0 this is a pretty long lens- I wonder what the min focus distance is with this puppy- thats one of the things I need to play with. This thing might not even be practical for portraits.

Anyway thanks again for all the great feedback- glad I signed up for this forum

 

[MattKing]

Manuals for the Kodak Medalist: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak/kodak_medalist_ii/kodak_medalist_ii.htm

Closest focusing distance without closeup filters: 3.5 feet.

Notice the suggested method of holding the camera.

If you have read any of the Farley Mowat books about the Arctic, the photos therein were taken by the author with a Medalist.

 

[Jeff Bradford]

I have a Medalist II. In the bag with it are a hand-held light meter, a tripod-foot, a #2 shutter-release cable, a tape-measure, and some Series VI hoods & filters. I'm not 100% certain of my range-finder skills with the tiny window on this old beast, so the tape-measure comes in handy for verifying the focus distance marked on the lens barrel. I managed to shoot a roll of Ilford Pan-F Plus hand-held without too much trouble, but I find a tripod makes the Medalist a whole lot more friendly.

Run a roll through it first. If you like it, consider a CLA. Ken Ruth comes highly recommended. I intend to send mine out to him before he is no-longer available. I don't know if I would consider a conversion. With re-rolling 120 onto 620 spools, my biggest concern is getting my 620 spools back from the lab, so I mostly shoot b&w with it and process in the tool-shed. One of the big NY stores stocks 620 that they have re-rolled in-house. Its about the price of a 120 roll plus what a spool costs on the auction site.

 

[BrianShaw]

Jeff, after shooting re-rolled 620 I generally re-re-roll it back to 120 spools for send-out processing. More handling increases risk of problems but no worry about spool return.

 

[choiliefan]

I've used a pair of nail clippers to trim fresh rolls of 120 down a bit to fit into the Medalist body. Engage the leader into the 620 spool on the wind side and start shooting. Shot many rolls this way without any problems.

 

[GaryFlorida]

well.....re-roll or buy some 620 film and see if you like using it. Assuming the shutter works at all.

I have mixed feelings about my Medalist II. It is compact and the lens is very good. But it is hard to hold while shooting and there is no stop at infinity: you have carefully focus at infinity. crazy. unless there is some trick I don't know.

There is an infinity stop shown in the repair manual for that camera. How many are still in existence I dont know. I want one for my camera as well.

 

[Dan Fromm]

Jeff, after shooting re-rolled 620 I generally re-re-roll it back to 120 spools for send-out processing. More handling increases risk of problems but no worry about spool return.

Hmm. I use Adapt-A-Roll 620 roll holders with my 2x3 Graphics. These will feed from a 120 spool but must take up on a 620 spool. I re-roll exposed film back to a 120 spool before sending it to the lab. That's what changing bags are for.

 

[removed account4]

from what i understand after a conversation with mr ruth
the 620 film wasn't the same thickness ( paper was different or film was different ?)
so sometimes rerolling the film could cause trouble with the camera by putting
added stress on the wind mechanism and the pressure plate ...
i've only re-rolled film to be used in a tourist camera and box camera
nothing as nice as a medalist ... ( and it worked fine )

 

[BrianShaw]

I'm talking about re-rolling exposed film using changing bag, not the camera. I should have been more specific... Like Dan was.

My 620 camera - Kodak Duo - won't feed from 120 spools, even clipped, so I spool from 120 to 620 in changing bag, shoot, and spool the exposed film from 620 back to 120 in the changing bag.

 

[Dan Fromm]

from what i understand after a conversation with mr ruth
the 620 film wasn't the same thickness ( paper was different or film was different ?)
so sometimes rerolling the film could cause trouble with the camera by putting
added stress on the wind mechanism and the pressure plate ...

No, the only difference between 120 and 620 is the spools. 620 spools have a narrower axle and narrower end plates. And the two types of spools have different slots for the winding key. The film and backing paper were, when EKCo sold both, identical.

 

[removed account4]

thanks for setting me straight dan
mr ruth mentioned there were differences
maybe i just confused the spool-stuff with ... the media.

 

[1920]

Camera is on the way to Mr. Ken Ruth- I'm getting the complete "CLA" (he's gonna call me if he finds any issues that need repair) and the 120 conversion for the feed-side only. I'm going to be developing in my basement darkroom (almost done!) so carrying a few 620 take-up spools shouldn't be a big deal. I have 2, so I'll need to buy some more. I have a family party on March 29, hoping to surprise my granddad who used a Kodak rangefinder that (he thinks) may have been a Medalist in Korea- Mr. Ruth advised me to keep in touch with him and he will try and get it back to me on time. Thanks for all the links to sample photos guys, this lens certainly looks very capable! Depth of field for portraits is gonna be razor thin tho.
Can't wait to get it back now--