Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent

Bob Carnie

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Ralph - I ordered some Sodium Hexametaphosphate today after seeing your post , I will follow your formula, basically same as what Ian Grant proposed, but I think
the hard water in my town lately may be giving me this result and the SH will soften it a bit if I am reading between the lines correctly.
I can only attribute the white scum to the clearing bath as all my other chem's are tried and true for over a large amount of printing sessions.
 

Bob Carnie

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Ralph - added 10 grams of Sodium Hexametaphosphate and problem solved... Ok so what just happened I assume my water in August took a turn??

Also I added the SH in hot water and part of it did not dissolve and turned into a hard gooy mass.. should this stuff not be mixed with hot water??
hca is about the simplest chmical to mix from scratchand a great way to get into mixing your own process solutions, just give it a try.all you need is a scale and some measuring cups.
 

madgardener

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I use the Legacy Pro brand at Freestyle. Its a good product and not that expensive.

I don't want to get into a money argument with the members here, but for some of us, even a penny can make a huge difference.
 

Roger Cole

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I've used the Legacy Pro brown toner and Rapid Fixer. It's fine. But for many of their items the price difference is, well, quite small. If that matters to you it's a fine alternative. But if price really matters on hypo clear, but a bulk jar of sodium sulfite and mix your own. You probably won't get the scum Bob does. If you do, add other ingredients per above.
 

Dave Krueger

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In comment #21 Ralph os talking about 20g per liter of water, whereas Bob Carnie, in comment #23 is talking about 200g/liter. That's a 10 to 1 difference in concentration. Which one is correct? It seems to me like the 20g/liter is correct for the working solution.

Maybe Bob's experience with the white scum is due to his using a much higher concentration.

I know this is an old thread, but I've been researching the idea of mixing my own HCA and throwing it away after the printing session whenever I do fiber prints.
 

Vlad Soare

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20 grams per liter is correct.
It doesn't have to be very precise. Two tablespoons per liter will be just fine.
 

Tim Moore

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thanks very much for this !
 

RalphLambrecht

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is there possibly a mistake? My formula calls for only 20g of sodium sulfite!
 

tezzasmall

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is there possibly a mistake? My formula calls for only 20g of sodium sulfite!
The formula you show Ralph, is for a concentrate that has to be diluted 1:9, as mentioned in the formula as 'Dilute 1:9 for use'.

As for the 20g of sodium sulfite per litre that you use, I don't weigh mine but use a one tablespoon measure, which gives me the 20g per litre of working solution.

In fact, in this much read link, it is quoted as a heaped teaspoon per litre being used, which having just weighed some, it is 16.5g, so not far off of what we use.

http://www.film-and-darkroom-user.org.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=296&garpg=5

(Second paragraph from the bottom = under 'Hypo Clearing'.)

The link quotes, 'For scratch mixers, a 2% solution of sodium sulphite (about a heaped teaspoon in a litre of water – measurement accuracy is not critical) works well.'

Terry S
 
Last edited:

JPD

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What times do you use for your Sodium sulphite solution? I use 3 minutes for film and 3-4 minutes for fibre based paper.
 
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