Kodak HIE Development

timbo10ca · Jun 26, 2006

Can somebody please direct me to development, stop and fix times using Ilfosol, Ilfostop and Rapid Fixer on Kodak HIE? Do development times vary depending on what I rated the film at (iso 200 +/- 1 stop), and what filter I used (red #25)?

Thanks, Tim

metod · Jun 27, 2006

Hi Tim, you will find great source for developing different types of films on Massive dev chart web site. Unfortunately, there is no info on Ilfosol and Kodak HIE, which means that they probably don't go well together, or nobody tried this combo yet. I recently developed this film in Tmax developer just because I happened to have it at that time, but if you don't mind mixing powder, D-76 is quite cheap and excellent choice . As for the stop bath and fixer, pretty much any available will do, as long as you follow mixing directions.

Good luck.

dolande · Jun 27, 2006

Hi Tim, I, kind of experimenting with HIE myself theses days. I used Aculux 2 with the recommended time but found that the great challenge of infrared is to get the exposure right. Very hard, for me, to judge development times when the exposure is all over the place. I started rating HIE at iso200 in my Nikon F3 measuring with a red filter in place. Now Im testing at iso 800. Ill use Diafine next time bases in some suggestion from this forum. Sorry I didnt address your question, I just wanted to share my experience FWIW.

Rafael

Gerald Koch · Jun 27, 2006

As far as Ilford's stop and fixer are concerned, there is nothing especially different about HIE, just follow Ilford's general instructions for these products.

terri · Jun 27, 2006

I can't really address the specific question, either - but I will say I stand by TMax 1:4 in distilled water for HIE, 6 minutes. And I agitate very gently, no more than a single inversion per minute. I was getting pinholes using D76, and now it's a rarity.

I'm certain there are several other good developers for HIE, but the stuff seems to demand gentle development in my experience, so I just stick with what's been giving good results. Hope this helps.

Andy K · Jun 27, 2006

I agree with the gentle agitation. I developed mine in Rodinal. Came out very nicely!

timbo10ca · Jun 27, 2006

Thanks for the advice- I think I'll pick up something that people seem to have had good experiences with- as far as I'm concerned, never having used Rodianl or Tmax yet, it's a flip of the coin. terri- I'm assuming 6 min at 20 degrees C?

Ole · Jun 6, 2007

Resurrecting an old thread...

Yesterday was a bright sunny day with a few decorative clouds, so I loaded my Pentax Mz-5n with HIE and put a Zenitar 18mm fisheye on - with an unspecified red filter on the rear end of the lens.

shot the whole roll in my garden in no time at all. Exposed as EI 50 by "sunny 16".

Just finished developing it in Ilfotec Hd 1+31, 6.5 minutes.

The negatives look fine (still drying), but next time I'll try a stop less exposure and maybe two minutes more development.

blokeman · Jun 6, 2007

KODAK HIE

I'm presuming HIE is the Infra-red Kodak film? If so .... I have probably put about 50-60 rolls thru my camera in the 1980's + 1990's and for the last 75% of them I began to rate them at 800 ASA, anything lower & the frames were always far too dense. I used Microphen undiluted, can't remember the time, but it was around 10 or 12 minutes & dev was up around 24 degrees. These days I would go for Rodinal 1:50. This is an old thread but maybe someone will benefit from my experience, it worked very well for me.

Renato Tonelli · Jun 6, 2007

I would like to add one important note to the responses so far. Avoid using an acetic stop bath as it could cause pinholes in the emulsion. Use water for two minutes as an alternative.

htmlguru4242 · Jun 6, 2007

Good that you mentioned the acetic acid part, Renato. I was just going to mention that.

I've had good results with HIE in D-76 1+1 (don't remember the time). Straight D-76 always produced a little bit of fog for me. I've seen it come out well in TMax developer as well.

This is a wonderful film, but its too bad that its so damn expensive. Last time I checked it was somewhere north of $11 / roll. Its really too bad, because it is definetely the fastest of the IR films out there (well, now there are only 3 left), and is probably one of the most unique films in current production.

timbo10ca · Jun 6, 2007

Renato Tonelli said:
I would like to add one important note to the responses so far. Avoid using an acetic stop bath as it could cause pinholes in the emulsion. Use water for two minutes as an alternative.

I've had quite good success using terri's method- 6 min in Tmax 1:4, inverting once per minute. I haven't developed many rolls yet (about 5 or 6), but I seem to get good results rated at ISO 200 with a #25 filter. I *do* add an additional 3 stops for filter factor, realizing it's not truly 3 stops, but it makes more sense to me and gives me printable negs. I think the short development with minimal agitation makes up for what others have done with ISO 800 to 1600 and longer development. I'll try some different things when I'm confident with current technique, but I suspect they will be similar, judging from examples I've seen of others' work. This is definitely a film where there are many ways to skin the cat! Just a note- I don't know if I've just been lucky with no pinholes, but I've been using Ilfostop with success.

Ole · Jun 8, 2007

So here's one of the first ones. Yikes, it's grainy!

PeterB · Jun 8, 2007

don't spread myths...

Renato Tonelli said:
Avoid using an acetic stop bath as it could cause pinholes in the emulsion. Use water for two minutes as an alternative.

Hi Renato,
before this myth about acid versus water stop bath is incorrectly propagated, can you please point to an authorative source to back up your claim ?

I found information to the contrary here.

"Some people claim that acid stop bath will cause pinholes. This idea comes from old books, written in the days that some developers contained chemicals with a carbonate. Acid and carbonate produces carbon dioxide. If an emulsion has absorbed enough carbonate from the developer, when the acid stop bath hits it, carbon dioxide formation might damage the emulsion. But I don't know of any commercial developer today that uses a chemical with carbonate, so unless you are scratch mixing an unusual developer, this should not be an issue. D-76 doesn't have carbonate."

regards
Peter

Murray@uptowngallery · Jun 8, 2007

acid/water

There are alot of people who claim there negative pinholes went away on old-tech films like J&C & Foma & possibly some Chinese films. Fact or imagination I can't say.

HIE has no anti-halation layer...could this make it more sensitive to any processing (other than the known light issues)?

terri · Jun 8, 2007

timbo10ca said:
I've had quite good success using terri's method- 6 min in Tmax 1:4, inverting once per minute. I haven't developed many rolls yet (about 5 or 6), but I seem to get good results rated at ISO 200 with a #25 filter. I *do* add an additional 3 stops for filter factor, realizing it's not truly 3 stops, but it makes more sense to me and gives me printable negs. I think the short development with minimal agitation makes up for what others have done with ISO 800 to 1600 and longer development. I'll try some different things when I'm confident with current technique, but I suspect they will be similar, judging from examples I've seen of others' work. This is definitely a film where there are many ways to skin the cat! Just a note- I don't know if I've just been lucky with no pinholes, but I've been using Ilfostop with success.

Tim - I feel terrible that I didn't return to this thread last year and missed your question regarding the temperature! However, from the sound of it you found your own way and I am glad to read the TMax method I described has worked for you. I did neglect to mention that I used the distilled water straight from the jug and went with "room temperature" when mixing 1:4. As utterly finicky as we all know the film can be, I do have a pretty relaxed development approach. I've come to appreciate that the 1-per-minute inversion is more critical here than the temp - seems so easy to over-agitate the stuff!

timbo10ca · Jun 9, 2007

terri said:
Tim - I feel terrible that I didn't return to this thread last year and missed your question regarding the temperature! However, from the sound of it you found your own way and I am glad to read the TMax method I described has worked for you. I did neglect to mention that I used the distilled water straight from the jug and went with "room temperature" when mixing 1:4. As utterly finicky as we all know the film can be, I do have a pretty relaxed development approach. I've come to appreciate that the 1-per-minute inversion is more critical here than the temp - seems so easy to over-agitate the stuff!

Terri- no worries. The process is sound- now I just gotta take a decent photo

terri · Jun 10, 2007

Terri- no worries. The process is sound- now I just gotta take a decent photo

Ha! You and me both, Tim. At least our crap is well processed; isn't that half the battle?

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