Kodak HC110 Shelf Life

I am thinking of trying a bit of this with my Arista Premium 400 and Kodak TriX but I have a couple questions.

1. I notice it comes as a liquid concentrate, which makes it easier to mix, but how long is the shelf life.
2. Are there other sources for this developer such as Photographer's Formulary, etc.

Thanks

HC-110 is quite a common developer. I can get it at the photo store and the lab I use here in Portland, and you should be able to get it at any of the on-line photo retailers (B&H, Adorama, Calumet, etc.) Not sure where you're located, but...

As for shelf life, when I open a new bottle, I re-package it into 4 smaller bottles, full to the brim (no air). The last of the un-opened ones lasted me about 5 years (yeah, I don't develop much, that's why I like HC-110). The partial bottle I had sitting around lost most, but not all of its strength over that time.

If the syrup is still pure yellow or very light amber or orange, it's still good. If it's turned dark orange, brown or red, you'd best test it before you commit your negatives to it.

If you hadn't already found this site, it's got some great info about hc-110:
Kodak HC-110 Developer - Unofficial Resource Page

--Greg

Thanks for the link Greg. I have glanced at it quickly but there is certainly a lot of info there to go through.

I will frequently develop several rolls of film over a week or so, then not develop anything for a month or more. I started out developing with Arista Premium 1+9 developer, but the shelf life is not very long. I have been using Rodinal almost exclusively for the past year because of the shelf life and because I can mix small amounts for a roll or two.

At this point I have been shooting a lot of Efke 25 and Arista EDU 100 films, and Rodinal works well with those two. But right now I don't have a good higher speed film in my selection. As I mentioned, I want to do some work with Tri-X and I have read that HC110 is a great developer with this film.

But before I start working with it and with Tri-X, doing the necessary work to establish my film speed and developing times, I want to know that it will last for awhile on the shelf.

Again, thanks a lot for your information.

Just to be clear...it's the concentrate that has a long shelf life. Many people using HC-110 mix working solution directly from the concentrate, using the method described in the link I gave you...with an oral medication syringe and stopper for measuring.

The stock solution will most likely not have nearly the shelf life that the concentrate does. Like Rodinal.

--Greg

Yeah. I gathered that reading the information in your link. It appears that it is also a good idea to decant it into smaller glass bottles to help increase the shelf life.

Right now I mix my Rodinal for single use right whenever I need it and have never had a problem with shelf life. I don't keep stock solutions around. The bottle I am working on now is almost out but it has lasted almost 2 years. I would expect that it will take me about that long to work through a bottle of HC110. Since I will likely use it when I develop my Double X (5222) and my Plus X (5231.)

5222

5222 is mushy when developed in HC110. Try a high acutance version of DK 50. If I remember correctly you take 1 part DK 50, 3 parts water, and 1 part kodalk solution(add 100g kodalk to 1000ml water....if I remember correctly?) Use as one-shot. I found this formula in a late 60's British Journal of Photography.

5 or 6 minutes at 70 degrees should get you in the ball park for 5222 or Tri-x.

I have made clear, sharp 30x40 enlargements with 5222. It is like no other film I have used. The grain is there but you do not really notice it as the values are so clearly separated.

Thanks for the advice and I will look into it. I am always looking for good suggestions.

Do you mix your own dk50 or do you buy it from somewhere like the formulary?

It lasts forever if kept as a syrup/concentrate. It lasts a long time as a stock solution too, but not forever.

I mix up small amounts (8 oz.) of stock at a time, not the whole bottle. I don't like mixing straight to the working solution, unless I am making at least one quart of working solution. Then the measuring becomes easier to nail spot on, and any minor pouring errors aren't that big of a deal.

In all cases (concentrate, stock, or working), I decant the stuff into bottles with minimum air space in them.

The closest equivalent is Ilfotec HC, but it is more expensive. I'd just get the HC-110.

I mix my own DK50 from scratch. Some day I may try substituting phenidone for elon and ascorbic acid for hydroquinone and see how it works and have a greener developer.

Add an once or two of triethanolamine to a gallon of DK 50 and it should last like HC110.

DK50 and HC110 were the Kodak recommended developers for Super Double X separation negatives.

I've never used Arista Premium 400 and if fact, never heard of it until recently. I can say the best developers I've used over a 30+ year duration with Tri-X has been ID-11, D76, FG-7 and HC-110. Dilution B of HC-110 was always the hands down best of the lot whether 35mm or 120 film. A quart of it will last till Armageddon.