I once asked PE about whether it would make sense taking apart a blix-set to make seperate bleach and fix, and he answered he could not comment on that as he never tested that.
I suggest Flexicolor bleach III and Flexicolor fix. The pH of each of these is about 6.5 or thereabouts, which is optimum for overall stability.
PE
Just a friendly reminder that kodak "canned" bleach III a few months ago. I think B&H has a few in stock if you want to drive there.
The ready-made gallons have been discontinued. Bleach III is still available in larger packs that require mixing and the use of a starter to make 'tank' solution. Yes, it makes it more difficult for small volume home users, but I thoght a clarification was in order.
Bob
I would contemplate doing c-41 at home if I could limit to only buying the developer. I would use E-6 bleach and fix. Alternately, if c-41 came in a convenient kit that did not rely on blix, that too would be an option. Although, as I understand it, E-6 bleach and fix would work, it isn't optimal. So, although I continue to do E-6 at home, $5.50 process only for 1 hour service at a pro-lab that is about a ten minute walk from home means I will not likely do c-41 for a while.
Instead of using the expensive Bleach III, or the expensive Ammonium Ferric EDTA solution to make up a bleach, you might try making it from Ammonium Hydroxide, H4EDTA (the acid form), and Ferric Chloride. This was the original way I made the bleaches and blixes at Kodak before the method to make Ammonium Ferric EDTA was worked out by Surash and Stephen. It is a lot less expensive and a little slower in action, but it does work.
PE
Bleach however is my next issue. Alas, it seems to be the priciest C-41 component; luckily for me bleach keeps forever (and fixer almost as long.) Those who stock it don't ship it (B&H); those who might ship it don't seem to stock it (Adorama, Calumet). I'm going with Trebla for the bleach
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