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Kodak Ektar H35 review part 3! And final..


That's good to know re the 36exp rolls, flash behaviour and advice - thank you!

Regarding the lens and "zone" of sharpness / depth-of-field, that makes sense... Assuming the designers aimed to achieve acceptable focus for the widest range of distances, I'm guessing the focal distance is around 8 - 9ft, given the focal length, f/9.5 aperture and format.

I do think it's a little odd they chose f/9.5 as the aperture I've found the Ultra Wide and Slim's f/11 to be pretty much an ideal compromise for a 22mm fixed-focus lens on 35mm format, both for depth-of-field and - with the 1/125s shutter speed - lots of flexibility with just ISO 400 film in all but the brightest situations. An f/9.5 aperture for the same focal length on a smaller format seems a bit of an odd choice... unless they were keen to allow use of lower sensitivity film due to exaggerated grain when half-frame photos are enlarged? Anyway, I'm probably over-thinking this Given what most people - myself included - use half-frame for, it's fine... and the sample photos look great (thanks again).
 
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They 'say' f 9.5. Which is very close to F10. Which is pretty close to F11....

It's like with Leica and their v2 current Summarit lenses. They all were f2.5, but in the v2 version miraculously are now f2.4
 
Huss said:
They 'say' f 9.5. Which is very close to F10. Which is pretty close to F11....

It's like with Leica and their v2 current Summarit lenses. They all were f2.5, but in the v2 version miraculously are now f2.4
Click to expand...

Indeed

Thanks again for all the information and feedback. I've ordered my H35 for delivery early next week
 
BigMackCam said:
Indeed

Thanks again for all the information and feedback. I've ordered my H35 for delivery early next week
Click to expand...

The most delicate part seems to be the rewind knob/shaft. When I load the camera, I don't pull down on the crank, but push down with my thumb (a finger would work too!) on the shaft inside the camera. That way the only time you pull down with the crank is when you unload the camera after rewinding it. I figure this should double the life expectancy!

Also it has plastic door latches - just like a Nikon F100! - and while I am sure there is no issue (unlike the Nikon F100) I still hold the catch up when I close the back. This is just me being goofy as if this thing ever breaks, just grab another... Or tape the back closed.
 

Good advice! I do this with my Vivitar UW&S (the crank arm and shaft aren't too strong on that one either), so I'll extend the habit to the H35 too. Thanks for the tip


Not goofy at all. I own a few low-end, all-plastic cameras, and - fun as they are - they aren't exactly built to last Any simple and easy steps to avoid potential problems are worthwhile IMHO. Replacing a super-cheap, charity-shop, bargain-bin camera is one thing, but the cost of an H35 ain't peanuts. I don't expect it to last forever, but it'd be nice to get through a few rolls unscathed
 
I own the first 4. They are all fun. If you want it as small as possible, take the Superheadz. The Holga TIM has one more aperture, but needs more attention. And there is the Russian Lomo Agat 18 (k), plenty of apertures and speeds, a good glass lens, the only cheap one in original landscape mode https://www.135compact.com/135_half_agat_18k.htm
 
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