Kodak Ektar H35 review part 3! And final..

[BigMackCam]

1. No stress on the mechanism with 36 exp rolls. Just make sure when you reach the end you leave it be, and don't try to get one more shot! Pretty much like with any camera.
I have had films that I bought from Ultrafineonline that they wound way too tight, and they were hard to advance but that was a long time before I bought this Kodak, and they are long since gone.
2. No idea. But a good idea re. the ND filter.
3. A couple of times when I use the flash, then turn it off, it will discharge some on the next shot. This is because the moment a shot is taken the camera recharges the flash and it seems the flash on/off switch only is there to charge the flash. Once off, if the flash is already charged it will still fire. it's a quirk but doesn't bother me as the flash is weak but it still can happen. - just tested it - turn the flash on to let it charge. Turn the flash off. Take a pic, flash goes off
4. No idea, but it's a pretty good lens considering. It is sharpest between 8-15 ft it seems.

This camera isn't cheap, even though it is "delicately" made, but honestly there is nothing like it that you can buy new. There are no other new half frame cameras sold.

Edit- to prevent unintentional flash pics, once the ready light for the flash has illuminated, turn the flash off. The flash will still happen when you take the shot, but will not happen on the shot after unless you turn it back on and let it charge up again.

That's good to know re the 36exp rolls, flash behaviour and advice - thank you!

Regarding the lens and "zone" of sharpness / depth-of-field, that makes sense... Assuming the designers aimed to achieve acceptable focus for the widest range of distances, I'm guessing the focal distance is around 8 - 9ft, given the focal length, f/9.5 aperture and format.

I do think it's a little odd they chose f/9.5 as the aperture I've found the Ultra Wide and Slim's f/11 to be pretty much an ideal compromise for a 22mm fixed-focus lens on 35mm format, both for depth-of-field and - with the 1/125s shutter speed - lots of flexibility with just ISO 400 film in all but the brightest situations. An f/9.5 aperture for the same focal length on a smaller format seems a bit of an odd choice... unless they were keen to allow use of lower sensitivity film due to exaggerated grain when half-frame photos are enlarged? Anyway, I'm probably over-thinking this Given what most people - myself included - use half-frame for, it's fine... and the sample photos look great (thanks again).

 

[Huss]

They 'say' f 9.5. Which is very close to F10. Which is pretty close to F11....

It's like with Leica and their v2 current Summarit lenses. They all were f2.5, but in the v2 version miraculously are now f2.4

 

[BigMackCam]

They 'say' f 9.5. Which is very close to F10. Which is pretty close to F11....

It's like with Leica and their v2 current Summarit lenses. They all were f2.5, but in the v2 version miraculously are now f2.4

Indeed

Thanks again for all the information and feedback. I've ordered my H35 for delivery early next week

 

[Huss]

Indeed

Thanks again for all the information and feedback. I've ordered my H35 for delivery early next week

The most delicate part seems to be the rewind knob/shaft. When I load the camera, I don't pull down on the crank, but push down with my thumb (a finger would work too!) on the shaft inside the camera. That way the only time you pull down with the crank is when you unload the camera after rewinding it. I figure this should double the life expectancy!

Also it has plastic door latches - just like a Nikon F100! - and while I am sure there is no issue (unlike the Nikon F100) I still hold the catch up when I close the back. This is just me being goofy as if this thing ever breaks, just grab another... Or tape the back closed.

 

[BigMackCam]

The most delicate part seems to be the rewind knob/shaft. When I load the camera, I don't pull down on the crank, but push down with my thumb (a finger would work too!) on the shaft inside the camera. That way the only time you pull down with the crank is when you unload the camera after rewinding it. I figure this should double the life expectancy!

Good advice! I do this with my Vivitar UW&S (the crank arm and shaft aren't too strong on that one either), so I'll extend the habit to the H35 too. Thanks for the tip

Also it has plastic door latches - just like a Nikon F100! - and while I am sure there is no issue (unlike the Nikon F100) I still hold the catch up when I close the back. This is just me being goofy as if this thing ever breaks, just grab another... Or tape the back closed.

Not goofy at all. I own a few low-end, all-plastic cameras, and - fun as they are - they aren't exactly built to last Any simple and easy steps to avoid potential problems are worthwhile IMHO. Replacing a super-cheap, charity-shop, bargain-bin camera is one thing, but the cost of an H35 ain't peanuts. I don't expect it to last forever, but it'd be nice to get through a few rolls unscathed

 

[_flace]

I just bought my Kodak Ektar H35 in black too! Loving it so far

Filmed an unboxing video here: Unboxing Kodak Ektar H35: The film camera that cuts your film cost in half

 

[xkaes]

... honestly there is nothing like it that you can buy new. There are no other new half frame cameras sold.

For those interested, there are the Superheadz (six models), Diana Mini, Escura Snap 35 Half, Holga 135TIM, Ninoco NF-1 Half, One Shot 35 Half. and probably others:

http://www.subclub.org/shop/halframe.htm

 

[xya]

I own the first 4. They are all fun. If you want it as small as possible, take the Superheadz. The Holga TIM has one more aperture, but needs more attention. And there is the Russian Lomo Agat 18 (k), plenty of apertures and speeds, a good glass lens, the only cheap one in original landscape mode https://www.135compact.com/135_half_agat_18k.htm