Kodak Ektalure.

Keith Tapscott. · Nov 25, 2007

I still have four unopened 10 sheet packets of 11x14 Ektalure GD Lustre paper. I intend trying them sometime next week, but I am wondering about fogging and loss of contrast considering the age of the paper which was the last available stock from Silverprint Ltd some years ago.
I have Ilford Multigrade developer and was wondering if this is OK to use with Ektalure?
I will soon discover if the paper is good or not and I am hoping someone will have some tips to help reduce `fog` if present.

Photo Engineer · Nov 25, 2007

Keith;

There are many posts here about similar problems/concerns with fog on old papers. The developers for paper should all be fine, but may need more bromide or some benzotriazole to reduce fog.

As you note, this may decrease contrast. It also often solves the fog problem at the expense of speed. But since all papers are different, I would not care to even guess how this paper would perform, nor would I want to suggest a level of chemistry to use. Only trial and error will work in this case.

PE

dpurdy · Nov 25, 2007

Benzotriazole. Otherwise known as Kodak anti fog #1. Probably not something you have handy. And is only useful to a point. Otherwise if the paper is just a little fogged you could bleach back the highlights a bit with some farmer's reducer after the print is made.

Keith Tapscott. · Nov 25, 2007

I usually throw away outdated papers if they show loss of contrast, speed and high fog. This stuff has been stored in a cabinet away from heat, so I will find out when I use it if it`s any good. Hopefully it will be OK.
If the problem is minor, would a solution containing Sodium Carbonate and Benzotriazole be suitable to counter fog and some loss of speed?

Keith Tapscott. · Nov 25, 2007

Photo Engineer said:
Keith;

There are many posts here about similar problems/concerns with fog on old papers. The developers for paper should all be fine, but may need more bromide or some benzotriazole to reduce fog.

As you note, this may decrease contrast. It also often solves the fog problem at the expense of speed. But since all papers are different, I would not care to even guess how this paper would perform, nor would I want to suggest a level of chemistry to use. Only trial and error will work in this case.

PE

I did browse for these, but didn`t find an old thread on this topic. Perhaps you could provide a link.

Photo Engineer · Nov 25, 2007

Keith;

Sorry, I don't keep track of them.

PE

pgomena · Nov 25, 2007

Be aware, also, that Ektalure requires a full 5-minute fixing time in order to clear and fix adequately. Maybe PE can shed some light on this as to why, but that was the standard procedure when I used Ektalure in school 20 years ago. Most other papers cleared much more quickly. The point I'm trying to make is that if inadequately fixed, the "fog" you may be see could be due to underfixing rather than age.

Peter Gomena

Vaughn · Nov 25, 2007

I recently used some long-opened Ektalure, K surface (not cold-stored) and it was in remarkably fine shape. But Dpurdy's suggestion of a slight bleaching, if needed, sounds good. That would maintain contrast.

Vaughn

George Papantoniou · Nov 26, 2007

I never had problems with outdated Ektalure either... and I have outdated sheets of it a few times... I hope it'll be the same with yours, it's a great paper.

I wonder if it'll give good results in lith developer, if it's fogged.

Keith Tapscott. · Nov 26, 2007

George Papantoniou said:
I never had problems with outdated Ektalure either... and I have outdated sheets of it a few times... I hope it'll be the same with yours, it's a great paper.

I wonder if it'll give good results in lith developer, if it's fogged.

I bought the paper with lith printing in mind after Kentmere discontinued the old version of Kentona which had Cadmium in the emulsion. I believe that Ektalure was the last Kodak paper to contain Cadmium. I have tried lith-printing, but I actually liked Ektalure processed normally in Bromophen, which used to be my regular print developer before switching to Multigrade.
I have got some good advice from this thread concerning fogging and fixing etc and I would like to thank everyone who has replied.

SeamusARyan · Nov 26, 2007

Ektalure for sale

Hi Keith

I also bought some of that last batch of Ektalure from silverprint, about £6,000 worth, I haven't had a chance to print with it in the last 2 years but have recently sold some to several professional labs here in the UK, Melvin Cambettie-Davies Tony White and Robin Bell to be precise and they are all very happy with it.

If any one is interested I still have some for sale

just to reiterate the point made above about fixing for at least 5 minutes, a definite must, also you can dev it for a long time to help punch up the blacks, but I find that you should turn your safe light off if you want to do this, mind you as you don't have a huge amount to play around with then perhaps this isn't the greatest suggestion.

anyway good luck it's a fab paper

richard littlewood · Nov 26, 2007

Keith
I had the pleasure of using up 40 sheets of well out of date and possibly badly stored 24x20 Ektalure not that long ago. Developed in D-163 1+3 and fixed in a slow fix I really loved this paper, especially giving it some selenium, georgeous reddy browns, long tonal range, yellowy paper base, easy to print with with a 'straight' (G2 ish) negative, possibly a bit flat but I didnt mind as selenium did its trick. Only wish I had more to play with.

Rlibersky · Nov 26, 2007

Cut a sheet into small pieces Then throw it in your favorite developer and time how long it takes to fog if at all. If it takes more then 2 minutes use as normal. Just develope less then that. If Less then 2 minutes slowly add anti-fog agent of your choice, say 25ml per 1000ml, until it takes more then 2 minutes. This should do it. It is suprising how long silver paper lasts.

Have fun.
Randy

Keith Tapscott. · Nov 26, 2007

richard littlewood said:
Keith
I had the pleasure of using up 40 sheets of well out of date and possibly badly stored 24x20 Ektalure not that long ago. Developed in D-163 1+3 and fixed in a slow fix.

That is probably what I will try, D-163 is easy to make and performs very nicely.

Keith Tapscott. · Nov 26, 2007

SeamusARyan said:
Hi Keith

I also bought some of that last batch of Ektalure from silverprint, about £6,000 worth.

anyway good luck it's a fab paper

I guess you like it then.

SeamusARyan · Nov 27, 2007

When I had access to a darkroom I printed on nothing else, having spent about 3 years and a lot of money on other types, oh to have a well paid job so you can waste money like that, alas no more and my life is the better for it.

now that I can produce enlarged negs non-analog (does that get us around the dreaded .... oops nearly said it) that is where my printing is going

Rich Ullsmith · Nov 28, 2007

I'm currently going through a 100sh box of 8X10 that I found to be fogged about 1 stop (2 minutes in Dektol). However the fog is not present in lith printing, possibly because of the high bromide content in the developer.

Also, the fog is not present when developed in Michael and Paula's Amidol forumula. Maybe because of the benzotriazole.

I am not aware of the 5 minute fixing requirement. I have not had problems with the two-bath film strength fix. I imagine if this was insufficient, I would have found out when it went in the selenium.

maxbloom · Nov 28, 2007

I've got a considerable stash from what I believe is one of the last batches (circa 2000). No fog to speak of.

Kodak Ektalure.

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