Kodak Ektalure

I have an unopened 25 sheet package of 8x10 double-weight Kodak Ektalure (K) paper that's been stored in my freezer after I purchased it at a camera show a few years ago. I have no idea how the paper was stored prior to my purchase.

According to the package, the paper was manufactured in January 1981.

Do you think the paper will still be printable? (I suppose the easiest thing for me to do is just use the paper to find out, but I wanted to get some expert opinions.)

Also, is this a graded paper? (I don't see any reference to paper grade on the package.) I always print on a multigrade paper.

Thanks!

It's a graded paper that was made in only one grade. See

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Thanks!

It was gorgeous paper to print on it. It had very significant dry down effect, stronger than any other paper I ever printed on. It should be still fine to use it.

Most old graded papers kept very well. It is the newer papers that don't keep. At least that is my experience. Ektalure was a beautiful paper.

I still have some G surface in unopened package . It really is a marvelous paper . The dry down is, as mentioned quite significant . When I followed up with Selenium toner it seems like when dry it required about 10-15% reduction in exposure to match a wet untoned print.
Oh how I miss the old papers . However I wouldn't give up the current Ilford multigrade papers for any of the old stuff . Well maybe for Ektalure and Medalist
Mike

At that age, I'd be very surprised if it doesn't show plenty of fog.

The only way to know is to try it and see!

It is a warm-tone paper. With a warm-tone developer and selenium toner the image takes on an incredibly beautiful cool chocolate-brown color. I was sad to see that paper go.

I used to print for a studio, I hated Ektalure when I had to print on it, the boss was using Dektol, when I switched to Ektonol and then when Ektonol was discontinued to Selectol my thinking started to come around. I loved it when I was printing my own work. Another I'll put in the same class is the Luminos Classic Pearl which we switched to when Kodak discontinued Ektalure the first time. Both gone but not forgotten.

Yes the use of Ektonal really changed a lot of papers. I wish Kodak would release the formula for Ektonal.

I've used a lot of Ektalure, all of it expired. It's a beautiful paper; I would say I like it has as much charm as the vaunted Portriga. I think you've got to try and use the paper to its fullest. Benzotriazole is often a life saver. Here's an example of some (funnily enough 1981) Ektalure with two step wedges taped to the box. One is developed in regular Dektol 1:2, the other has BZT added. In my eyes it is the difference between a paper that is not usable, and one that is.



In this instance I used 20ml of 2% BZT in 750ml working strength Dektol. Obviously, it will vary from paper to paper, and probably from developer to developer.

Another thing I would say is to keep your developing times as short as possible. The longer the paper is in the developer, the more likely the fog hiding underneath is going to come out. And if the paper is a bit flat, live with it, and find a negative that has a lot of contrast. Or shoot and develop some new stuff with the paper's limitations in mind.

Be warned that BZT changes the way a paper tones in selenium, quite significantly. Ektalure can take on beautiful chocolate browns in selenium; some of the nicest I've seen. It's less apparent with BZT in the developer. You can certainly still tone it partially, just to get the blacks up, but it may not be as nice if you go for too long.

If all that fails, try lith printing with it. I've never had any luck, but understand some people love it.

RidingWaves said:

Yes the use of Ektonal really changed a lot of papers. I wish Kodak would release the formula for Ektonal.

Click to expand...

Still some about:
http://www.kenmorecamera.com/p-3321-kodak-ektaflo-dev-type-2.aspx

Yes but shipping liquid and that particular liquid is very tough.

Ektalure is simply a holy-grail lith printing paper. Nothing quite like it - you can get amazing warm tones, which can be toned down if desired with selenium. And even pretty heavy fog can give bright whites and clean borders with lith printing.

Even in lith, the dry down takes a lot of practice to figure out when to snatch it. If you luck out and get a good test strip, put it in a tray with some water to compare to your print in the developer.

I have 8x10 and 16x20, all purchased on eBay. The 8x10 shows maybe 1/4 stop fog (it was in the very old-school Kodak packaging), the 16x20 is pristine. Stuff holds up pretty well.

If you're not into lith, cut a test strip, even 1/8" x 2" or so. Fold it in half and fill a small graduate (100ml) almost to the brim, and "hang" the strip so half of it dips into the dev. Let it sit for several minutes with mild agitation, fix and wash, examine in daylight. If half the strip is gray, you have fog, and you'll see how much compared to the paper's base white.

If it's fogged (but not fogged black), stick in on eBay with a photo of the test strip and "lith" in the description. Someone will buy it.

I have Ektalure from the 70-s and 80s also bought on ebay. No idea how it was stored and it prints well. Test a few pieces by throwing a strip in developer to see if there is any fog. If there is and a just enough anti-fog agent to remove it. Although I would be surprised f you needed any.