Kodak E-Dupe in camera? Possible? Logical?

hey all,

i know that the primary use for this film is for either film-recorder duplication( digital images recorded to film, think reverse drum scanner or for art reproction of high contrast color prints according to EK, but have any of you used this before for in-camera shooting? Well, before I plunk down some money to test out a bulk roll(100 foot), I need to ask and see if any of you have done this before?

1. what asa to rate it at(to start, i might over/underexpose, but looking for starting point)
2. is this a tungsten or daylight balanced film?
3. compared to say e100g/gx (currently my favorite e6 films), how is the grain? i like the e100g/gx grain, and i'm looking for something that is versatile, has good reciprocity(see below question).
4. what is reciprocity on this compared to other e6 films?
5. please post any recommendations you might have


thanks

dan

Anything goes...

But an important feature of all second stage films is their sensitization, which is aimed at the dyes of the camera film.

1. start with 64
2. Tungsten
3. Grain depends on age - 5 years old film or 20?
4. ? ("Excellent reciprocity ")
5. Start with warm filter for daylight use (I use B+W KR12, and compensate according to measured value.
Try out both high contrast and low contrast motivs, and report back

I have about 350 feet of expired Kodak 5071 slide duplicating film (direct predecessor to Edupe) that I've been going through slowly. The film is tungsten balanced, so I use an 85B filter on it and shoot outside. The film is technically rated at 25, but since it is about 12 years old, I shoot it at around 10, with the 85B filter, it drops to around 8 or 9. If you want more accuracy, the specific filtration is printed on the pack (mine is +05CC M, +10Y), but I wouldn't bother as you're probably not looking for exact color reproduction. Grain is extremely fine. I haven't tried long exposures, but it should be very forgiving to them, as tungsten film is usually designed for long exposures. I haven't noticed anything out to 15 seconds. I've found it pretty saturated, and close, but not quite as contrasty as E100VS.

Unless you have a very specific reason for shooting it I don't know that you'll get optimal results from it. Why use a film for something other than its purpose when there are plenty of films designed for your intended use? You could probably use it for that use if you used an 85B filter and don't mind low contrast. You might do well to push it. I heard it was ASA 12 or something like that (might have been the fuji equivalent...) which would put you at 8 or so with filter.

tiberiustibz said:

Unless you have a very specific reason for shooting it I don't know that you'll get optimal results from it. Why use a film for something other than its purpose when there are plenty of films designed for your intended use? You could probably use it for that use if you used an 85B filter and don't mind low contrast. You might do well to push it. I heard it was ASA 12 or something like that (might have been the fuji equivalent...) which would put you at 8 or so with filter.

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thank you all for your insight.

my main reason for wanting to try this is this:lower contrast . i have read that because this is a lower contrast film, mostly to counter the higher contrast of a film recorder, or reproducing a high contrast color print, that is my reasoning.

also, i was looking at getting a new roll, not one that is expired by a few years.

i'll try the 64, thanks for the tip on that one

if anyone else has some recommendations, please let me know

thanks

dan

The ISO of the film is usually printed on the box that you get it in. I have seen rolls at ASA 8 and ASA 12.

DanielStone said:

i have read that because this is a lower contrast film, mostly to counter the higher contrast of a film recorder, or reproducing a high contrast color print, that is my reasoning.

Click to expand...

"Final gamma is the product of the gammas of the component films."

The original use of that kind of dupe film was making duplicates of slides. (Professional photographers exposing slide film as that was what agencies liked back then, but the same being reluctant to give away their originals, or willing to serve several stock agencies, duplicated their original slides.
To maintain the contrast of the original in the duplicate the dupe emulsion must have half the slope in the characterisc curve than the emulsion of the original camera film.
Looking at the curve of the E-dupe you will see that it is about half as steep as those of the Ektachrome camera films.

I think you should try pulling other films before trying dupe film. You want low contrast AND high saturation?

tiberiustibz said:

I think you should try pulling other films before trying dupe film. You want low contrast AND high saturation?

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no, i want lower contrast, with normal saturation. i'm looking for a slow film, with excellent reciprocity and a flatter color palette. basically, portra NC in a e6 format.

-dan

p.s.

kind of like Kodak EPN, but slower a.s.a.

I'm interested in trying some now too.

Hi,

Check this info:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/edupe/edupe.jhtml?pq-path=13319/13322