The longer the film is in the developer, the more the shadows will develop, so it's false to say that having shorter dev times due to more frequent agitation will omit the risk of shadows that aren't fully developed.
I've seen this measured, so it's not some sort of magic or anything, just a dynamic of longer development time. This becomes practical if you photograph in high contrast lighting, or if you want to compress your tonal scale for some other reason, because if you slow down agitation to something like once every 3 minutes, or once every 5 minutes, you end up needing a longer development time. This becomes what we call compensating development, because it lifts your shadows while highlights are compressed, while mid-tones then become what you control with exposure.
I don't know why this is something that is omitted by every manufacturer out there, but was common knowledge and practice of many years ago. I guess that manufacturers want to stay away from getting too involved with people's processes, and give a standard recommendation that works 'pretty well most of the time' to be safe and not screw things up for folks. The recommended times, dilutions, and agitation patterns might give technically sound results, and yield a negative with a perfect tone scale, or whatever, but many people who use the film are less interested in technical perfection, and more interested in conveying something as abstract as emotion.
Agitation is a tool that we can use to shape our results, beyond the 'catch all' recommendation of the manufacturer, whatever it is. It helps us create a negative which results in a tonality in a print that lives up to our vision and what we want to convey.
Any recommendation from someone else, regarding what a developing cycle should be, should be taken with a grain of salt anyway, and only as a starting point where individual tweaks are then applied to get the best out of the light you're shooting in, the contrast of the lens you're using, your meter accuracy, your metering technique, the shutter accuracy of your lens, what paper you print on, and what paper developer you use, etc etc etc ad nauseum.
What manufacturers give you are recommendations. Not something you follow like some sort of gospel.