KIEV 6C: How do you set the ISO

[TNG92]

Hi all,

Had my Kiev 6C (it was made about 1981 going from serial number) for a little while and have used before once, but just a little confused about the ISO and how to set it. I bought a ton of film earlier in the year but I don't want to be making expensive mistakes by not setting the ISO to the correct setting.

I know it works via GOST/DIN but I'm unsure if I'm meant to use the red dot, or the arrows that line up with the green and yellow numbers. (Look at 2nd pic)

It seems like a really stupid question, but I can't seem to find any info on it.

Can someone tell me if I am going via the red dot or the yellow or green lines to get the film speed? Seems silly, but its not very clear to me.


Thanks to anyone that can help!

 

[koraks]

Welcome to Photrio!

AFAIK this camera only has TTL metering with the prism viewfinder, which isn't installed on your camera. Looks like you only have a waist level viewfinder installed, which is unmetered. Since there's no meter, there's also no need (or possibility) to se the ISO on the camera. Set the ISO on the external light meter you'll use instead.

 

[Sanug]

That's correct. You will need an external light meter or the TTL prism finder. The (incomplete) DIN scale is just for your memory and has no further function.

 

[Kino]

Should you get a prism finder for the camera, it's probably best you still use a hand held meter anyway for more precision.

 

[MattKing]

That setting can be used to help remind you what film you have in the camera, so it is worthwhile to set it.
But otherwise, what the earlier posts say.

 

[TNG92]

Oooh perfect, thanks so much everyone! It's been driving me up the wall all day!!

 

[TNG92]

Welcome to Photrio!

AFAIK this camera only has TTL metering with the prism viewfinder, which isn't installed on your camera. Looks like you only have a waist level viewfinder installed, which is unmetered. Since there's no meter, there's also no need (or possibility) to se the ISO on the camera. Set the ISO on the external light meter you'll use instead.

Thank you so much! I do have a prism view finder but there's no metering on that at all its plain with no extra bits. Think some of the very early Kiev 6C models didn't have that TTL! Do you know then if I wanted to push/pull any film if that is therefore possible? Or if it is would I meter as what I'm pushing/pulling the film to and inform the lab developing it? Say I wanted to use a 3200 ISO film at 1000, I'd meter to 1000 and let the lab know that I shot it at 1000?

Thanks again

 

[grain elevator]

Say I wanted to use a 3200 ISO film at 1000, I'd meter to 1000 and let the lab know?

Yes.

 

[TNG92]

Yes.

Amazing, thanks for your help !

 

[koraks]

Do you know then if I wanted to push/pull any film if that is therefore possible?

Sure. But be prepared to be lectured on what push/pull is and how useful (or not) the terminology is - it's a pet peeve of some here, for some good reasons too!

Let's just define push as underexposing and overdeveloping so that the contrast of the negative ends up more or less normal.
And let's define pull as the opposite: overexposing and underdeveloping, again aiming for a normal contrast in the negative.

As you can see, what happens on the exposure side is over- (pull) resp. underexposure (push). It really doesn't matter how you arrive at that exposure - whether it's an in-camera / TTL meter, a separate light meter or even a light meter app on your phone. Just determine correct exposure and then adjust in the desired direction. No TTL required. The camera doesn't have to 'know' what ISO film is in there.

Say I wanted to use a 3200 ISO film at 1000, I'd meter to 1000 and let the lab know that I shot it at 1000?

Yes, that's basically what you'd do. And how you exposed it, the lab basically doesn't care. They'll just take your word for it!

 

[TNG92]

Sure. But be prepared to be lectured on what push/pull is and how useful (or not) the terminology is - it's a pet peeve of some here, for some good reasons too!

Let's just define push as underexposing and overdeveloping so that the contrast of the negative ends up more or less normal.
And let's define pull as the opposite: overexposing and underdeveloping, again aiming for a normal contrast in the negative.

As you can see, what happens on the exposure side is over- (pull) resp. underexposure (push). It really doesn't matter how you arrive at that exposure - whether it's an in-camera / TTL meter, a separate light meter or even a light meter app on your phone. Just determine correct exposure and then adjust in the desired direction. No TTL required. The camera doesn't have to 'know' what ISO film is in there.



Yes, that's basically what you'd do. And how you exposed it, the lab basically doesn't care. They'll just take your word for it!

Thank you for the heads up and also for the advice. I'm still quite new in the film world, occasionally overwhelmed and I was always terrified shooting film and having to develop etc myself in the dark rooms at school and preferred digital when younger. I'm learning its a lot easier than I realised if you already shoot which has removed (some) of my anxiety, just need to take the plunge!!

 

[koraks]

Yeah, I'd really recommend doing your own film development, too, ateast for black and white.its only scary the first time - and even then, it's fun. You'll see.

 

[Tel]

Cure for anxiety: buy a brick or two of the cheapest 120 film you can find (probably Foma or Arista--really just rebranded Foma) and shoot everything that can't outrun you and don't worry about making good art or wasting a few frames. And maybe pick up some developing gear (a beaker or two, a thermometer, an easy-to-load tank such as a Paterson, and some clips to hang up film in your bathroom) a bottle of developer, some fixer and some photo-flo and start souping your own. That Kiev is a nice camera and you'll find it easy to use and enjoyable to shoot.

 

[Kino]

Kentmere 120 is just as cheap (at least it is here) and not so curly when dried. In any event, good luck!

 

[Prest_400]

Welcome! The advice has been given, and you have an unmetered camera and you are going totally manual. Hope you will get good results, given some of these cameras are temperamental.
I second developing and printing B&W yourself. Colour film in medium format is as well beautiful, so wholeheartedly recommend to pay the premium to also do colour if it can be your thing.

Without a light meter, there are phone apps that do reasonable readings. As you are in the UK, I second starting out with Kentmere (or Ilford).