Hello Noel.
Would you, by chance, know what the M in Jupiter 8M signifies? How is it different from a Jupiter 8? I have asked this question many times but I have never learned the answer to this question.
Thanks, Eric!I have read that it signifies a model with click stops on the aperture ring, something that earlier models lacked. I am not sure, but camerapedia says so.
http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Jupiter-8
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Without framelines, how does one use this camera in conjunction with any non-50mm lens? Is an accessory viewfinder required?
yes an aux veiwfinder needed, everything is possible with experience...
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I'm with you Dan. The fingger focus wheel always puts my finger in front of the RF window. Also the lens locks at infinity, and you have to release it at the focus wheel. I have a Kiev 4, and the first "test" roll netted me about 6 keepers. The Jupiter that came with it is a wonderful lens.
Use contax grip-no problem...
As well as click stops in later lenses (8M as mentioned above) I think they altered the optical design to make it easier to manufacture.Hello Noel.
Would you, by chance, know what the M in Jupiter 8M signifies? How is it different from a Jupiter 8?.
ah the Triumph TR8: a perfect example of why government shouldn't run industry.
Lucas was known in Great Britain as "The Prince of Darkness". The British Leica copy, made by Reid and Sigrist in Leicester was a wonderful machine with Taylor Taylor-Hobson lenses, but was taxed out of existence by a Labour government ( One sir Stafford Cripps saw photography as a luxury.... Of Sir S. Cripps, Sir W.S. Churchill once said: "There, but for the Grace of God , goes God).
The first Leica Summicron M 50mm (collapsible) used glass from the Chance factory in Birmingham, not tremendously far from Lucas.
David
I own such a camera as well, which I like a lot. However, it has the quirk that after the 24th picture, the frames start to overlap.
The range finder is the best focus aid I have tried. And yes, you can focus with the lens as well, of course.
My Kiev 3 isnt too bad if I keep the spool tight using the winding knob, also gets better more I use it. I usually get a couple of butt up negs that dont overlap. The last roll I developed had surprisingly even gaps, well mostly....small price to pay for a cool camera.Interesting. This is the first reference to this problem I have been able to find. I am having this problem on my Kiev 4a. It is in the shop now, so we will see if the repairman can figure out the problem. Did you ever figure out why yours did that?
I started with 36 exposure rolls; always started failing after 30 exposures. I thought- try 24 exposure- problems started as I approached 24! In the case of 36 exposure, I even tore a roll near the end.
Other that that (and hopefully it will get addressed), It is a very nice camera to shoot.
My Kiev 3 isnt too bad if I keep the spool tight using the winding knob, also gets better more I use it. I usually get a couple of butt up negs that dont overlap. The last roll I developed had surprisingly even gaps, well mostly....small price to pay for a cool camera.
There abouts, I use b&w and roll my own.Sounds like this is a fairly common problem for Kiev Contax based rangefinders. Are you shooting 36 exposures (it's about all you can find these days).
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