Kallitypes , Fabriano & Oxallic Acid Needed?

[menglert]

Greetings,

I would like to start test prints for Kallitypes again, but my paper stock (Stonehenge) has been discontinued. Will I need to do the oxallic acid bath for Fabriano EW with the Kallitype process? They will be toned in gold, platinum, and palladium, but I wasn't sure if the paper needed the oxallic acid bath like pure platinum & palladium prints.

Thanks,
Martin

 

[Wolfgang Moersch]

What you need is ferric oxalate (20%) and Silver nitrate (10%).
To make a platinum- or palladium toner, you will need citric acid.
http://www.moersch-photochemie.com/daten/pdf/Kallitype-eng.pdf

Regards
wm

 

[menglert]

What you need is ferric oxalate (20%) and Silver nitrate (10%).
To make a platinum- or palladium toner, you will need citric acid.
http://www.moersch-photochemie.com/daten/pdf/Kallitype-eng.pdf

Regards
wm

Thanks for the direction Wolfgang, but maybe my question wasn't clear.

It was more about preparing the paper before the coating, as I've seen people dicussing in the platinum and palladium threads as it pertains to Fabriano papers specifically.

Also, I've come across your website before, and really enjoyed the PDF on Kallitype printing. Very informative outline!

Thanks,
Martin

 

[menglert]

:confused:

 

[donbga]

:confused:

I've printed kallitypes on FAEW that was treated in oxalic acid but I had trouble clearing the paper. But I've since change my workflow but haven't tried oxalic treated FAEW since the change.

I now go straight from the developer into a clearing bath of 3% citric acid. I also dump the developer (sodium citrate) after every 8x10 print.

Don't know if that helps.

 

[menglert]

I've printed kallitypes on FAEW that was treated in oxalic acid but I had trouble clearing the paper. But I've since change my workflow but haven't tried oxalic treated FAEW since the change.

I now go straight from the developer into a clearing bath of 3% citric acid. I also dump the developer (sodium citrate) after every 8x10 print.

Don't know if that helps.

Did you settle on another paper?

Do you think if I were to apply a few layers of gelatin sizing this may help with FAEW?

 

[philsweeney]

Hi Martin,

just my 2 cents. if you are just needing to use a new paper I suggest COT320 for kallitypes. it double coats well and needs no oxalate acid treatment. many papers do not do well! I have lost track on the ones that do not do well.

 

[sanking]

Hi Martin,

just my 2 cents. if you are just needing to use a new paper I suggest COT320 for kallitypes. it double coats well and needs no oxalate acid treatment. many papers do not do well! I have lost track on the ones that do not do well.

COT320 is definitely a great paper for kallitype, as it also is for pt/pd. It gives very good Dmax right out of the box and does not need treatment with oxalic acid.

Curiously, I have found that the same COt320 gives very low Dmax with vandyke, which came as a considerable surprise to to me.

Sandy King

 

[donbga]

Did you settle on another paper?

Yes. I only tried the oxalic FAEW as an experiment.

Do you think if I were to apply a few layers of gelatin sizing this may help with FAEW?

Martin,

As a general piece of advice, IMO avoid siziing paper as a solution to make it work with a process, look for a differnt paper. As Phil and Sandy suggested Cot320 works well. I've also used Platine and Cranes Diploma Parchment. But Cot320 works really well.

 

[menglert]

Thank you everyone for taking the time to answer my question.

When I get a little more money I may try COT 320, but until then may try Platine because my local art store stocks it.

 

[Mark Fisher]

Platine is a fine paper with Kallitype. I can get it locally so that is what I use (plus it just looks nice!) I find that it cleared better with hypo clear than the other clearing agents, though.