Here's another version of the Cathedral door detail printed with the kallitype process.
This one is dev'd in Borax/Rochelle Salts and cleared in Citric Acid. No toners applied. The Paper is Arches Aquarelle HP 300g
My question here is why am I getting the stain most noticable at the top of the image? Is this incomplete clearing? It is clearly where the sensitizer was applied.
I have printed this before with just Borax dev and dont remember the stain on the same paper.
Any ideas?
Cheers
Phill
Sandy, Paul
Thanks for the replies. I have some sodium citrate now so I wiill try it with the acid dev. Cheers
Phill
Phil,
very shortly: as I said in another thread, I would just about forget Arches Aquarelle for metal salt prints.
The combination of Sodium Citrate and Arches Platine should be unproblematic. In about four minutes, the margin stain should have very nearly gone, then, after a short rinse in slightly acidified water, a citiric acid bath of a a few minutes should clear all. Agitation and developer volume are no reasons for concern in my experience.
This precipitate is something I have not seen with Kallitypes, so let me make two suggestions:
1) have you taken care the developer is acidic, as Sandy wrote?
2) what sort of ferric oxalate do you use? Is it yellow or green? Do yoiu use any additives?
FO for kallitypes i.m.e. should be yellow, with no EDTA or oxalic acid added.
Did you perhaps acidify he paper prior to coating?
I'm using 20% solution of Sodium Citrate as developer. I pour the developer over the print & image appears almost immediately (between prints, pour developer back in bottle). The developer is almost opaque black from ferrous iron. Sandy King says in article to replenish developer with about 20% fresh - decant from top leaving the ferrous iron on bottom to be discarded. He says that, unless replenished, difficult to clear. I've had trouble decanting - seems that the iron remains suspended instead of settling to bottom.
Btw, I tried Selenium toning before fixing, and did not see any Selenium stain; and it did stop the shadow solarization.
I develop for 3 mins which sounds like it might not be enough (but will increase to see if this removed the problem). The dev liquid was very grey and murky after the 4 prints I made last night and was discarded. I will make up a larger batch over the weekend.
Phill
Arches Aquarelle is definitely not a good paper for metal salt processes so you should start by trying a new paper. The problem with Aquarelles is that is has a lot of buffering to make it alkaline and this intereferes with the formation of good shadow density and also contributes to the formation of iron stain.
Time of development is not particulary important in kallitype, except for the fact that the print continues to clear in the developer. However, I normally not develop for more than two minutes, and then take the print directly to the first clearing bath. A rinse in alkaline water between the developer and the clearing bath could cause stain.
Replensihment of the developer is absolutely necessary with kallitype. If you don't replenish your prints will stain. For most consistent results you might even consider using the sodium citrate fresh every time and then discarding it. You don't need a lot to develop a print, maybe about 500ml for a 16X20 print and if bought in volume sodium citrate is not very expensive. In any event, I expect to see the print come out of the developer about 95% clear. It is always a bad sign if after two or three minutes in the developer there is a lot of stain because it will be difficult or impossible to clear.
The native color of kallitype and sodum citrate is not attractive, but that does not bother me because for permanence kallitypes should be toned, and when you tone them they take on an entirely different color, warm black with platinum and pallaidum toners, blue black with gold.
Sandy
Phil,
I admit I find this difficult to fathom. Did I understand you correctly that you used Arches Platine insterad of Aquarelle the second time?
One of the points I made earlier has not had any comments on yet is the fact that I lost about 1.5 stops (and I am getting a 5.5 stop final density range) of contrast using Sodium Citrate compared to Borax. They look like I have printed on the equivalent of a grade 4.5 silver paper . Is this a known attribute of Sodium Citrate?
Phill
Do you mean that you lost 1.5 stops of printing speed or 1.5 stops of tonal range? If the former, I have never compared the printing speed of borax with sodium citrate. However, I have found that sodium citrate gives about the same printing speed as potassium oxalate and ammmonium citrate. I prefer sodium citrate because it is not as toxic as oxalate and is much less expensive.
Sandy
I lose about 1.5 stops of tonal range. Print speed is about the same.
Phill
How are you determining that you lost 1.5 stops of tonal range? Are you using a step wedge? If so, from where to where on the print scale are you counting? Just so we are on the same page, for in-camera negatives I count from about 90% of maximum black to paper white. For in-camera negatives, from maximum black to paper white.
Sandy
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