kallitype questions

eclarke · Apr 23, 2010

Thanks Guys, I have been using one 8x10 negative which prints just fine with pt/pd so it seems that the Kallitype is a little trickier! I have been all over the map with the exposure from about 150 units to 400 units in my Amergraph. What exposure units are you guys using and what kind of units??...Evan Clarke

rst · Apr 23, 2010

eclarke said:
Thanks Guys, I have been using one 8x10 negative which prints just fine with pt/pd so it seems that the Kallitype is a little trickier! I have been all over the map with the exposure from about 150 units to 400 units in my Amergraph. What exposure units are you guys using and what kind of units??...Evan Clarke

If it prints with pt/pd then it can not be totally wrong for kallitype.

To expose my kallitypes I use something a bit bigger than a facial tanner. Not very professional, but it works very well for me and it is sufficient to do up to 8x10 negatives. Exposure usually lies in the range of 2-3 minutes. But as I said, the exposed but undeveloped kallitype should look yellow except the shadow areas which show up slightly orange.

Cheers
Ruediger

eclarke · Apr 23, 2010

rst said:
If it prints with pt/pd then it can not be totally wrong for kallitype.

To expose my kallitypes I use something a bit bigger than a facial tanner. Not very professional, but it works very well for me and it is sufficient to do up to 8x10 negatives. Exposure usually lies in the range of 2-3 minutes. But as I said, the exposed but undeveloped kallitype should look yellow except the shadow areas which show up slightly orange.

Cheers
Ruediger

Thanks Ruediger, I am WAY overexposing them then which is too bad because what I see on the paper is really pretty. I will have some other papers tonight and will back the exposure down. The surface of the Stonehenge seems to get a little ratty after a fair amount of wet time...Evan Clarke

rst · Apr 23, 2010

eclarke said:
Thanks Ruediger, I am WAY overexposing them then which is too bad because what I see on the paper is really pretty. I will have some other papers tonight and will back the exposure down. The surface of the Stonehenge seems to get a little ratty after a fair amount of wet time...Evan Clarke

I have just coated some paper and I am going to take some images of the exposed but undeveloped image which I may show here. give me some time.

Cheers
Ruediger

R Shaffer · Apr 23, 2010

eclarke said:
Thanks Guys, I have been using one 8x10 negative which prints just fine with pt/pd so it seems that the Kallitype is a little trickier! I have been all over the map with the exposure from about 150 units to 400 units in my Amergraph. What exposure units are you guys using and what kind of units??...Evan Clarke

This may be way off base, but are you using your pt/pd 27% FO for kallitype?

I ran out of my kallitype FO a while back ago and tried diluting my pt/pd FO for the emulsion. It did not work and I got a print with very very weak d-max and it looked just awful. I think the only difference between the two is a bit of oxalic acid in the pt/pd FO, other than dilution, and I may have screwed that up too.

eclarke · Apr 23, 2010

R Shaffer said:
This may be way off base, but are you using your pt/pd 27% FO for kallitype?

I ran out of my kallitype FO a while back ago and tried diluting my pt/pd FO for the emulsion. It did not work and I got a print with very very weak d-max and it looked just awful. I think the only difference between the two is a bit of oxalic acid in the pt/pd FO, other than dilution, and I may have screwed that up too.

HI,
No, mixing from fresh powder..EC

MVNelson · Apr 23, 2010

it is hard to compare exposure times because everyone's sources and timing methods are so different and units are based on how each type of exposure source is calibrated. I have a huge nuarc unit with settings for 1000w, 3000w, 6000w. I think the last time I used 180 units @ 3000w (about 2 mins).

rst · Apr 24, 2010

So, this is how the "Dung Fork" image looks just before the development (you can find a scan of a finished version in my gallery on APUG (there was a url link here which no longer exists)):

Cheers
Ruediger

eclarke · Apr 24, 2010

rst said:
So, this is how the "Dung Fork" image looks just before the development (you can find a scan of a finished version in my gallery on APUG (there was a url link here which no longer exists)):

Cheers
Ruediger

Thanks, Ruediger, this was very generous of you. I was desparately over exposing. I have better paper and better exposure today and the results are better.Thanks..Evan Clarke

MVNelson · Apr 25, 2010

my exposed but not developed prints have very similar density as this ...

eclarke · Apr 26, 2010

MVNelson said:
my exposed but not developed prints have very similar density as this ...

Now, that's how mine look. Thanks all the proper exposure and a nicer paper have made the prints look pretty good, sharp and bright. I messed up the little bit of developer I had playing with contrast but have my benchmarks for that too. Next weekend, I will make some serious prints..Evan Clarke

eclarke · May 3, 2010

Update, much fun with kallitype. I am using a sodium acetate/dichromate/tartaric acid developer, clear in 3% edta, gold/thiourea toner (from Sandy's article) and fix in normal strength TF-4. A nice, warm black with some chocolate shadows..This week I will advance to 11x14s from in camera negs..Thanks everybody...Evan Clarke

MVNelson · May 3, 2010

great news to here of your progress ... I do use Na-Acetate developer also to get more true black low values . I have switched to using 1/2 strength TF-4. The switch has caused to shift in tonality and complete fix time doesn't change either. Please post you stuff . I have a couple of prints hanging to dry and post this p.m. when i get home. We all learn by sharing ...

eclarke · May 3, 2010

MVNelson said:
great news to here of your progress ... I do use Na-Acetate developer also to get more true black low values . I have switched to using 1/2 strength TF-4. The switch has caused to shift in tonality and complete fix time doesn't change either. Please post you stuff . I have a couple of prints hanging to dry and post this p.m. when i get home. We all learn by sharing ...

I love this color and tone. I just need to fine tune the contrast vs. exposure time a little bit and then I think I can just make photographs. I have digital aversion but will scan something and post it..Thanks..Evan

R Shaffer · May 3, 2010

eclarke said:
Update, much fun with kallitype. I am using a sodium acetate/dichromate/tartaric acid developer, clear in 3% edta, gold/thiourea toner (from Sandy's article) and fix in normal strength TF-4. A nice, warm black with some chocolate shadows..This week I will advance to 11x14s from in camera negs..Thanks everybody...Evan Clarke

Very good news. I really like the gold/thiouria toner. With the sodium citrate developer you get a plum color that is also very nice.

The great thing with kallitype is the cost is very minimal and the results are quite beautiful. So there is no hesitation at making big prints or experimenting.

rst · May 4, 2010

eclarke said:
... I have digital aversion but will scan something and post it..Thanks..Evan

I am looking forward to see some of them.

Cheers
Ruediger

kallitype questions

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