Kallitype Print Of Holy Ascension (Video)

tnp651

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Thanks for this. It’s always interesting to see another’s working method. Sandy King recommends toning before fixing, and that’s what I do, but you’re getting marvelous tonalities with your technique.
 

koraks

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I'm not laughing about the hose & pebble setup - I have similar contraptions for washing prints! I also prefer flat-bottomed trays for the same reasons, plus if you tone in a ribbed tray, the toning tends to be uneven due to the flow patterns across the ribs unless you use an enormous volume of toner, which is uneconomical in the case of e.g. gold toner.

What gold toner recipe are you using, or is this a commercial preparation?

That's a fine print; very nice indeed.
 

Franswa

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Nice, always enjoy your videos Andrew.

I didn’t realize this sub forum existed!
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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@koraks I have been using Gold Toner #2, in Sandy King's Kallitype article over at Alternativephotography. His article is what got me interested
in alt printing back in '07. It's all his fault!
@Raghu Kuvempunagar I have never fixed after toning, but I do give it a rinse in HCA, and thorough wash.
 

pentaxuser

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This sort of begs the question why aren't all trays flat. Do ribbed trays, such as a lot of the commercially sold trays, have any advantages such as in "normal" printing?

Thanks

pentaxuser
 
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Andrew O'Neill

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pentaxuser said:
This sort of begs the question why aren't all trays flat. Do ribbed trays, such as a lot of the commercially sold trays, have any advantages such as in "normal" printing?

Thanks

pentaxuser
Click to expand...

I don't mind using using ribbed trays, but only if the ribs are recessed...without those silly little raised dimples... I'm always on the lookout for flat-bottomed trays, but proper ones are outrageously priced.
 

koraks

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pentaxuser said:
This sort of begs the question why aren't all trays flat. Do ribbed trays, such as a lot of the commercially sold trays, have any advantages such as in "normal" printing?

Thanks

pentaxuser
Click to expand...

It's easier to grab the print from the tray if it doesn't stick to the bottom. I think that's what the ribs for. Plus mechanical stability of the tray itself; the ribs make the bottom plate less flexible. So the material can be thinner for the same degree of rigidity.
 

gary mulder

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For small formats I like to use glass tray’s.


 
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Franswa

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Andrew O'Neill said:
I'm always on the lookout for flat-bottomed trays, but proper ones are outrageously priced.
Click to expand...
That they are. I got two flat ones from BH last month and they(8x10) were $20 a piece. I looked on BH again just now and they've gone up to $28 a piece
 

pentaxuser

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Thanks. Looking at Andrew's and another's response you wouldn't think that the saving in material in a ribbed tray would be enough to make an appreciable difference to the greater price of flat trays although it apparently does

pentaxuser
 

MattKing

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I expect that chemicals are more likely to be trapped between the print and the bottom of the tray if the tray is flat bottomed.
If you ever have had an RC print stick to the bottom of a tray much like a suction cup, you will know of at least one advantage of a non-flat bottom.
Substantial channels - like those found in Paterson trays - seem to permit trays that are both light and rigid.
 

tnp651

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pentaxuser said:
This sort of begs the question why aren't all trays flat. Do ribbed trays, such as a lot of the commercially sold trays, have any advantages such as in "normal" printing?

Thanks

pentaxuser
Click to expand...

Ribbed trays give more support to prevent bending, letting the manufacturer use less plastic. But more importantly, ribbing prevents prints from sticking.
 
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