Just started contact printing 4x5 and 6x17, what does a contact print frame do?

[rpavich]

I have now been contact printing my 4x5 negs using my printfile contact sheet proofer; 11x14, foam back, heavy glass top.

I like the results, I get a nice black border around each image and it works great, however I realized that there were contact print frames and I'm wondering; is the main reason that folks use them to get a white border?

 

[Alan9940]

If what you have works, then use it and forget about contact printing frames unless you need something larger. I never owned a contact sheet proofer so I bought contact printing frames. I've owned one for nearly 40 years and the other two were bought from B&S for pt/pd printing because I needed something larger than 8x10.

 

[eddie]

Contact printing frames will make better contact between the paper and negative. Also, for alternative processes ( like cyanotype) the hinged back will allow you to see the progress of your exposure without the negative/paper moving.

 

[rpavich]

If what you have works, then use it and forget about contact printing frames unless you need something larger. I never owned a contact sheet proofer so I bought contact printing frames. I've owned one for nearly 40 years and the other two were bought from B&S for pt/pd printing because I needed something larger than 8x10.

Thank you.

Contact printing frames will make better contact between the paper and negative. Also, for alternative processes ( like cyanotype) the hinged back will allow you to see the progress of your exposure without the negative/paper moving.

Got it, thanks.

 

[summicron1]

the kodak contact printing frames i have used little sliding tabs of metal to enable you to have white borders, yes, but it's such a hassle to line everything up that I don't bother. The black border does very nicely.

So, like the man said, use what you have and don't sweat it.

 

[rpavich]

the kodak contact printing frames i have used little sliding tabs of metal to enable you to have white borders, yes, but it's such a hassle to line everything up that I don't bother. The black border does very nicely.

So, like the man said, use what you have and don't sweat it.

Thanks, that's about what I thought.

I'll keep doing what I'm doing.

 

[Jarin Blaschke]

You may or may not see a sharpness difference because a contact printing frame truly pushes the negative and paper together without any gap. This is more of an issue as negs get bigger, and at the center of the image. This is why those who use 11x14 and larger, for critical sharpness, go for a vacuum printing frame.

 

[mshchem]

Thanks, that's about what I thought.

I'll keep doing what I'm doing.

+1 print frames are a carry over from the old POP (print out paper) and for use with 8x10 and up negatives. My opinion is I would never use a frame bigger than needed to accommodate 1 negative. I have a nice hinged glass with good foam on a metal base, I use for proofing roll films. I use the same thing for 8x10 negs. I have an Arkay Speed Dodge professional contact printer, works great with Azo contact paper. Obsolete!
Doing what you do allows you to use an enlarger light source with filters fast and easy.

 

[566lm]

What if to use anti newton glass instead of frame? Will it work?

 

[koraks]

Yes, it should work fine. If you're having problems with newton rings, this may solve them. Note: I do get newton rings with my Paterson 35mm contact printing frame (but I don't care); I never get them with contact prints that I make using a regular glass sheet or a DIY pressure frame.

 

[jim10219]

What if to use anti newton glass instead of frame? Will it work?

Yes, but it'll scatter the light a bit and you may lose a bit of sharpness. It may not be enough to notice, so it could work for you. Though are you seeing Newton rings in the print? They won't often show up. At least they never do in my alt. process prints.

Another way the avoid Newton rings is to make a mask. Then place the mask between the negative and the glass. This gets the glass off the negative. If the paper, negative, and back of the frame are all relatively flat, the pressure created around the border should be enough to keep the negative from flat on the paper without making direct contact in the middle. Use a thick paper like a cardstock, but not too thick. 300gsm should do.