Just purchased my first medium format slide projector.

I wanted a Rolleivision 66 Dual P, but I could not find a single one for sale. I'm thinking even if I did, it would be way more money than I have right now. I settled for a P66S which came with a 110-160 zoom lens. I have read that the lens is not the best, but it will be good for me to determine which focal length I will need. I sit about 12 feet away, so I'm guessing I may want a 90mm lens. My screen is 94". I hope I can afford a good lens. I have no idea how much I'll need to spend. Anyway I was all excited about receiving the projector, as the listing said tested and working, with a 9-10 rating on condition. Unfortunately it was DOA. Before I turned it on I wanted to open the top cover and clean it. The inside was devoid of dust, which was a real surprise. However when I saw the lamp it looked very dark. When I pulled it to inspect, I discovered it was broken. I then decided to see if it would run without the lamp, and it doesn't. When I plug it in the motor doesn't turn on so I can't tell if the cycling works or not. The only thing that is working at this point is the focus mechanism. I just found the repair manual so I'll see if I can figure out what is wrong. Here is the link to the Repair Manual pdf. http://ms-photo.de/Rollei-P/PDF-Documents/Rollei-P66s_Rep.book.PDF Finally I'm wondering if I should use 110v or 120v setting. My actual line voltage is usually around 115v.

I would not worry about the voltage level, you are within the range. Do a search for a replacement bulb. When I wanted a 120 6x6 projector ten years ago I could not find any. I am glad you found one. When you find a source of bulbs, buy some extras for the future.

Sirius Glass said:

I would not worry about the voltage level, you are within the range. Do a search for a replacement bulb. When I wanted a 120 6x6 projector ten years ago I could not find any. I am glad you found one. When you find a source of bulbs, buy some extras for the future.

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Unlike my 35mm Kodak Cavalcade, which I really like, the P66S uses a common bi pin halogen lamp. I purchased several HXL type. These are supposed to be 10% brighter over their lifespan. I purchased mine on amazon and should have them Monday. I got the unit open and so far I have no voltage going to the multi tap switch. This maybe an easy fix, keeping my fingers crossed! These still seem to be hard to come by. I only found a few on an auction site sold history, and only two more for sale now. One was over $500 and didn't have a very good lens.

sruddy said:

Finally I'm wondering if I should use 110v or 120v setting. My actual line voltage is usually around 115v.

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On the assumption that you rather want a too low than a too high voltage at the lamp, you should set the switch at 120V.

Has anyone tried an overhead projector? They are readily available and were designed for large transparencies.

I just got the projector working. It turns out the motor won't work on 110 or 120v. However it's working on 240v, and I have an outlet for my sub-woofer that I'm using. I found a place in Germany that has stock of spare parts and they had a new motor for a very reasonable price! The auto focus doesn't work either so I have taped up the sensors and am focusing manually until I fix the AF. The Vario Heidosmat 160-110 lens is not very good. The edge to edge sharpness is really not bad but overall detail is soft and their are chromatic aberrations near the right border. I'm looking for a better lens but need about 180mm to get the projector behind me and reachable. My newly found dealer is suggesting a AV XENOTAR or AV APOGON 150mm/2,8. He say's" The difference between APOGON or XENOTAR is only philosophy, not real to see." However 150mm is to wide for my set up. Finally I'm not happy with the Gepe Anti-Newton glass mounts. I can clearly see the pattern of the glass. I purchased these mounts on numerous recommendations from users of many forums. Nobody has mentioned this issue so I'm wondering why I'm having problems with it. I tried a glass less slide and it had the same sharpness across the frame as did the anti-newton mount. I left it in the projector for many minutes and the focus never changed so I don't think the projector gets them hot enough to pop. FYI Projection size 45" x 45". Viewing distance 12'. Lens set at 160mm.

sruddy said:

Finally I'm not happy with the Gepe Anti-Newton glass mounts. I can clearly see the pattern of the glass

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Are you using them in the correct orientation? Black side (= not anti newton) on the screen side, white side (= anti newton) on the bulb side ?
(NOTE: now I need to double check what I wrote to be sure I don't have it reversed - but you get the idea)

etn said:

Are you using them in the correct orientation? Black side (= not anti newton) on the screen side, white side (= anti newton) on the bulb side ?
(NOTE: now I need to double check what I wrote to be sure I don't have it reversed - but you get the idea)

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Yes and I tried one using both gray pieces. These are plane glass and the pattern is obviously gone.

sruddy said:

Yes and I tried one using both gray pieces. These are plane glass and the pattern is obviously gone.

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Strange. I've never seen newton rings with mine (and I have hundreds of them (*))
What is the f/stop of your lens? maybe the depth of field is larger? (mine is a 150mm f/3.5)

(*) EDIT: slide mounts, not projectors

I have a nice Kindermann unit. Has condenser and heat absorbing glass. Love it. Projection is the reason to shoot chromes.

etn said:

Strange. I've never seen newton rings with mine.

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He does not see Newron rings, but the pattern of the glass surface.

etn said:

Strange. I've never seen newton rings with mine (and I have hundreds of them (*))
What is the f/stop of your lens? maybe the depth of field is larger? (mine is a 150mm f/3.5)

(*) EDIT: slide mounts, not projectors

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I believe it’s 3.5 same as yours.

Reading this thread makes me appreciate my Leitz Prado 500 and Linhof MF projectors all the more. Completely manual, will function smoothly as long as my own body parts continue to work as designed.