Just developed my first roll of 120 Tri-X

Thanasis · Mar 9, 2008

Hi there,
Just wanted to let you all know that I managed to succesfully load a roll of 120 Tri-X onto a stainless steel reel and develop it (in ID-11 for 8 minutes @20C if you must know). Even though I've done it quite a few times now with 35mm, I was a bit worried about the reel loading what with the paper backing and all. Thanks must go to J Brunner for the very informative youtube video on loading 120 film onto stainless steel reels. I did find it easier to remove the paper backing altogether as my changing bag is of the flat variety and it was easier to do with the paper removed and completely out of the way. Loading it onto the reel after that was not that difficult.

Now looking forward to printing a proofsheet.

zenrhino · Mar 9, 2008

Just wait till you see the increased detail in 120 as compared to 35mm. It's just astounding.

Then again, the large format guys say the same thing about LF vs 120.

Thanasis · Mar 10, 2008

I was looking at the dried negs through a 4x loupe and i can most definititely see the difference.

With regards to LF....let me just say "one step at a time"

Curt · Mar 10, 2008

120 roll film is geat isn't it? What format are you using the film in?

Curt

Thomas Bertilsson · Mar 10, 2008

Congratulations. I think you will find that it's easier to get good 'weight' and punch in the prints from medium format negatives. But all formats are viable, just don't do what I did and get lost in the jungle of multiple formats. If you have the time to focus on all of those formats, go for it, but I seriously diluted my content that way.
By the way, medium format is good for huge prints. Granted, a contact print from a ULF negative will have an edge, but the flexibility the medium format allows you is worth at least as much. It depends on what you like to photograph.
Show us some results here after you print some.
- Thomas

kristopher_lawrence · Mar 10, 2008

Well well, your not the only one...

I developped and wet printed my first Minox shot 2 days ago: APX 25 in Rodinal 1+50. I have shooted a lot of Medium format an 35mm and I must say that I was surprised!! So much details in this tiny negative! At first, I thought that I would just have fun with this old camera (Minox IIIs), but I was so much impressed that I made a cutting machine to slice my own today. I am planning to use it a lot more than I thought at first.

Its such a shame that APX 25 is not available anymore, I can't imagine how it could look on medium format!

Thomas Bertilsson · Mar 10, 2008

That's a neat story, Kristopher. APX 25 was an amazing film, I used a bit of it before it disappeared. If you can find some APX 100 still, it's just as good in my opinion. Just slightly larger grain, but easier to process.
Those Minox cameras are cool. I have a 35mm Minox 35GT. Small enough for me...
- Thomas

Thanasis · Mar 10, 2008

Curt said:
120 roll film is geat isn't it? What format are you using the film in?

Curt

Yeah, I love it. 6x6 out of a Hasselblad 501CM.

IloveTLRs · Mar 10, 2008

120 film is great. Here's hoping you don't get GAS like a lot of other people and start buying up all kinds of MF equipment

Mark Antony · Mar 10, 2008

I'm rediscovering 120 after selling my Rollei TLR about 6 years ago. Just bought a Fuji 6x7 RF and at the moment I'm enjoying Delta 3200 for low light.
Mark

arigram · Mar 10, 2008

I've used some Trix 320, but I prefer HP5+ which is easier to get around here, better much for my Ilford developers and really like its output.

Colin Corneau · Mar 10, 2008

I just picked up a Bronica for a project I'm working on - I haven't worked on MF since high school, and it's been really fun (except the learning curve for loading the magazine).

I can't wait to print them, but I may be falling prey to the format chaos Thomas mentioned -- digital, panoramic, a Shen Hao 4x5 and now this...I may need professional intervention.

ajmiller · Mar 10, 2008

I've just set up my first darkroom at home, installed new sink and worktops last weekend in the utility room. My wife made blackout curtains. Yesterday I developed my first roll of 120 in there and it was also Tri-x 400. I sat in the bath last night, looking at the negs drying in the shower cubicle just across the bathroom, with a warm glow in my heart.
Only you guys would understand that!

Tony

Michel Hardy-Vallée · Mar 10, 2008

To my surprise, I'm a fan of 400TX in 35mm, but not yet in 120. The absence of grain of the larger format and its particular response to light work better for me in a small format. In 120, I prefer 320TXP, but it's so expensive here (8$ a roll of 120) that I've been using Plus-X for a similar look.

I rented a Hasselblad a few weekends ago, and I'm still drooling over the negs.

Christopher Walrath · Mar 10, 2008

Welcome to the MF club. I wish I had a Hassy. I have the Rolls Royce of the Mamiya M645j line.

Thanasis · Mar 10, 2008

arigram said:
I've used some Trix 320, but I prefer HP5+ which is easier to get around here, better much for my Ilford developers and really like its output.

I've been thinking about trying the Trix-320. What's the main difference visually, with it and the Tri-X 400? Most of my shooting is outdoors and I understand the 320 is better suited for indoors.

Michel Hardy-Vallée · Mar 10, 2008

Thanasis said:
I've been thinking about trying the Trix-320. What's the main difference visually, with it and the Tri-X 400? Most of my shooting is outdoors and I understand the 320 is better suited for indoors.

It's mostly the shape of the film's curve. Tri-X 400 has a straight curve, whereas 320 has an upswept curve. What it means in practice is that for the same scene, 400 will give you pretty even separation of high, mid, and low values. 320, on the other hand, will give you darker shadows and brighter highlights.

320 is very nice outdoors or indoors; it's just a matter of whether the film matches your style. I actually find 320 to be very nice for harshly lit snow scene because it emphasizes the black/white tonal opposition.

You just have to make sure that you do not over develop 320, because it will give unprintable highlights. A rather dilute developer like HC-110 dil. H or Rodinal 1+50 is a good match.

I think the traditional warning against using 320 outside has to do with flare. If I understand correctly, flare makes the shadows brighter. Because 320 does not have a lot of contrast in the shadows (everything in there is pretty much the same dark tone), then flare would raise up the shadows nearer to the midtones, and goodbye nice dark shadows. Someone correct me if I get this wrong.

Thanasis · Mar 10, 2008

mhv said:
It's mostly the shape of the film's curve. Tri-X 400 has a straight curve, whereas 320 has an upswept curve. What it means in practice is that for the same scene, 400 will give you pretty even separation of high, mid, and low values. 320, on the other hand, will give you darker shadows and brighter highlights.

320 is very nice outdoors or indoors; it's just a matter of whether the film matches your style. I actually find 320 to be very nice for harshly lit snow scene because it emphasizes the black/white tonal opposition.

You just have to make sure that you do not over develop 320, because it will give unprintable highlights. A rather dilute developer like HC-110 dil. H or Rodinal 1+50 is a good match.

I think the traditional warning against using 320 outside has to do with flare. If I understand correctly, flare makes the shadows brighter. Because 320 does not have a lot of contrast in the shadows (everything in there is pretty much the same dark tone), then flare would raise up the shadows nearer to the midtones, and goodbye nice dark shadows. Someone correct me if I get this wrong.

Thanks, Michel. I'll keep it in mind. We have very strong, contrasty light here in Australia, particularly in summer, ( and not much snow either ) so i often find myself shooting late in the day where the light is a bit more even and creates nicer shadows. Sometimes this works too well and i get flat negatives. The Tri-X 320 might be a good option to boost contrast a bit.

Thanasis · Mar 11, 2008

As an aside...while i was fiddling in the changing bag, my partner walks in and says, "but you still can't undo a bra in the dark for shit".
I saw this as a challenge and once the film was in the tank, she handed me a fastened bra which i then placed in the changing bag and proceeded to undo it with her timing me with a stopwatch. I undid it in 9 seconds...er...flat.

Just developed my first roll of 120 Tri-X

Thanasis

zenrhino

Thanasis

Curt

Thomas Bertilsson

kristopher_lawrence

Thomas Bertilsson

Thanasis

IloveTLRs

Mark Antony

arigram

Colin Corneau

ajmiller

Michel Hardy-Vallée

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Christopher Walrath

Thanasis

Michel Hardy-Vallée

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Thanasis

Thanasis

Just developed my first roll of 120 Tri-X

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