Just completing building a B&W darkroom..., where should I start

The last time I did wet printing was in Vietnam, over 50 years ago.
Have been developing negs, MF & LF for about 10 years.
I am completing a darkroom build (COVID project?).
What is suggested for papers, chemistry & such?
I have XTOL, HC110 & some Rodinal, but want some suggestions for developer choices l
I'll be doing some simple stuff, calibrating the enlarger, etc.
I have a pretty extensive library of B&W negs so plenty to play with.

Why do you need more choices? You already possess the three best.

Congratulations.
Do I understand correctly that it is print developer you are looking for advice on?
I've been using liquid Kodak PolyMax - T for years, and like it, but I'm not sure about current availability.
If you are happy with powder, each of Dektol and Bromophen are good choices. If a replenishment regime appeals to you, Ethol LPD has many fans, but there are availability issues as well.
Ilford Multigrade is another liquid option that many like.
Some of this depends on your location. Where are you?

I set up my current darkroom 20 years ago. I have gravitated to concentrated, long-lasting stock solutions for 'binge processing.' Essentially the opposite of a continuous flow of processing using replenishment.

I save up my film and process it all at once. I dilute and mix everything just before I use it and most of it is thrown out, one-shot. For example one tank holds ten rolls of 120, so I'll wait until I have ten rolls before I do a film run.

My printing sessions are similar.

I like Dektol because the development time is fixed thus removing a variable. That allows me to converge on the best print much faster.

Theres not a great deal of difference with paper developer, get what's convenient. I mostly use Bromophen and put it in 1ltr sealed bottles. The Gallon stuff left in the Gallon container usually goes bad before I finish it.
Dont use film developer, thats a waste.
Same deal with fixer. I buy it by the Gallon container and use both for film and paper, .I use Ilford Hypan.
Just buy what ever stop bath is the most economical, usually Kodaks the cheapest.
Buy fresh Ilford multi grade RC paper or similar to start with, this will give you great results and set your abilities up for different paper. Fiber paper is costly and more unforgiving. Old paper will be fogged and give varying results.
Get a F stop timer chart and learn how to expose using f stops, then save up and get a F stop timer. I printed a F stop chart at A3 laminated it and stuck it to the wall next to the enlarger. I used an analog timer with a F stop chart for a couple of years before I got a digital F stop timer. Best equipment you can have. Just like working your photography using stops of light, its best to do the same with enlarging. Easiest to learn from the beginning.
Selenium is good to use, but not necessary.

Most importantly, get a big bin for all your rubbish. If your not going through 10 sheets to get a good print then you arent trying hard enough.

Good luck

Yep, Dektol, Bromophen or one of the other standards will do you just fine. If you feel more adventurous, it's really easy to mix your own D-72 or (my favorite these days) ID-62, but you have to make the initial investment in raw chemicals. Your decision.

Stop bath: Kodak indicator stop is cheap and lasts forever. Ilford stop bath is citric-acid based and the working solution doesn't last as long, but it's just fine too.

I like Ilford Rapid Fixer or Hypam without the hardener for paper fixing. The concentrate comes in a five-liter jug that lasts a long time and is easy to mix. I use 1+9 for print fixing; others like 1+4. I suggest you read up on print-fixing techniques before beginning. What you do will depend on whether you print on RC or fiber-base paper and if you want to fix for optimum permanence, etc. Ilford has a great document here: https://assets.website-files.com/5b...3a2b1b17efb_tech specs ilford rapid fixer.pdf that has lots of useful information. Do pay attention to the reduced capacity for optimum permanence that's hidden in the section on Silver concentration.

Likewise, read up on washing.

If you print on RC paper, things are a lot simpler, but if you want the look and quality of fiber-base paper, you'll have to go to a bit more trouble.

And, ask here when you run into a problem.

Best,

Doremus

Sirius Glass said:

I like Dektol because the development time is fixed thus removing a variable. That allows me to converge on the best print much faster.

Click to expand...

Absolutely agree on the consistent print development times. It was not until I did this that I got a handle on my printing. Now, I keep the safe light illumination so dim that I can barely see the tray, and can in no way see the image on the print. One enormous variable eliminated! (PS. I use Dektol, but that is habit. I am sure there are many other developers worth using.)

Sirius Glass said:

I like Dektol because the development time is fixed thus removing a variable. That allows me to converge on the best print much faster.

Click to expand...

Brendan Quirk said:

Absolutely agree on the consistent print development times. It was not until I did this that I got a handle on my printing. Now, I keep the safe light illumination so dim that I can barely see the tray, and can in no way see the image on the print. One enormous variable eliminated! (PS. I use Dektol, but that is habit. I am sure there are many other developers worth using.)

Click to expand...

Alan Ross pointed this out to me in his workshop in Yosemite. Once I started doing that, printing got a lot easier for me.

You'll want some trays to develop in, sized for the prints you'll want to make. Good starting sizes are 8x10 and 5x7 prints. You can use official photo trays or plastic bins of the right size. You'll want a developer. I recommend Ilford Multigrade for dead simple ease of use, good shelf life, and no powder to mess with. You can mix one batch at a time. For paper printing you'll want a stop bath to make the process faster and more predictable than plain water. The less smelly options are better. It's nice to have a neutral or alkaline fixer for the same reason and also because it makes washing shorter. You can just use what you have for film, though. Just check the dilution. I'd start out with Ilford RC papers because they are easy to wash and dry and Ilford quality is excellent. Nitrile gloves and/or tongs are a necessity, too.

Hope that helps

I'm a big fan of Ilford, but also have used Sprint Systems chemicals. Currently, I'm using Ilford Multigrade developer, Sprint Stop bath (it's vanilla scented), and Ilford Rapid Fixer. My choices are based on the fact that they come as liquids - I have asthma and do not like mixing from powder.

Most of the paper I use is also Ilford. I'd advise starting with RC to learn / relearn the mechanics and basics. I use RC for quick prints to see if I like an image bigger, but my good prints are on fiber. Try some different ones and see which is your favorite.

Big point - RTFM. All the chemicals and paper will come with instructions - read them. And have fun!
Good luck! If you have issues, you'll probably find an answer here, too. There's already been good advice in this thread.

I've used XTOL for a long time, most all the Kodak & Ilford films. IMHO, it's and excellent all-around developer. I blend up 5 liters, fill 12oz. 'Nalgene" (HDPE) bottles, you can fill 3-to-14 to the brim. Every time I develop, I use a fresh 12 oz. bottle, Like that, they store for at least 4 months (6 is doable).

Strike all that, I read further

Ilford Multigrade Developer or DEKTOL.

I'm just starting out with printing. I've been using Dektol and Kodak Rapid Fixer. My current batch of Dektol is weird. It's dark like coffee, but it works perfectly fine. There's a product alert about it the color, but Kodak says don't worry about it. I have some Ilford chemistry that I'll dip into when I finish up my current batches.

I'm using all Ilford RC multi-grade papers now. I'll probably stick with that for some time.

For film, I've used Xtol, D-76, PMK, DK-50, D96, DF96, and I've also done some C41 and E6 processing. I've used Kodak Rapid Fixer for most of my film, but I got TF-5 for use with PMK, and it seems really nice and clean. I can't exactly explain why it seems cleaner, but it does. I've only been developing film for a little over a year now, so I'm still playing with it.

For all of this, though, I could see myself getting down to one or two film developers, and just settling on all the rest of my chemistry. Maybe I'll do fiber based papers at some point. I want control, and I want to know what I'm doing, but I'm not super interested in chemistry as a hobby in itself.