Joy Goldkind Bromoil clip

Jerevan

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I found this a few days ago and I just wanted to share this, in case someone has missed this: [YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddzbnHQ1mJU[/YOUTUBE]

I have never worked with this process so I am interested in any expert comments.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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She spoke fondly of you, Gene, when she made a presentation as part of the f:295 Seminar at B&H earlier this year.
 

Paul Cocklin

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Wow, after having just watched this a second time, I'm amazed at how roughly the print can be treated. She really goes at it with that brush! I was also very happy to see how the excess water is wiped off, because I would have been deathly afraid of smearing the ink via the method she uses, but apparently it's not an issue.

My matrices are drying. I'll super-dry in the morning and resoak; then I'm off on a brand new adventure! (although I only have the black ink, no colors. )

Gene, if you don't mind my asking, what paper do you use for your bromoils? You're the reason I've decided to take up the process. I've just been blown away with your work.

Paul
 

ann

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i love her work, and the best thing she is also a very nice lady to match the quality of her images.
 

Gene_Laughter

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I'm using Kentmere fineprint VC fine grain matt (semi matt) - not warmtone.
Also Slavich Matt - grade 2
 

Gene_Laughter

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My matrices are drying. I'll super-dry in the morning and resoak; then I'm off on a brand new adventure! (although I only have the black ink, no colors. )

Paul. I would suggest that you ink with black ink only until you have the inking nailed down. Color inks are thinner and much more difficult to "tame!"

Good luck!

Gene
 
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Jerevan

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Nice to see that some more people enjoyed looking at it. After reading up a bit on the process (mainly the things Emil Mayer wrote) I find it interesting that the delicate brush handling he describes is not as delicate and paper towels are used in the clip, which seemed to be a no-no according to him.
 

Paul Cocklin

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Well, I just finished inking 4 bromoils. These were the first 4 I've ever done, and I think the first one was the easiest. I can tell right off the bat that I'm going to need to get some brushes that don't shed like crazy. I pretty much ruined the second one trying to get a very stubborn hair off of it, and the last two have tiny hairs that I was afraid to try and remove before the ink dries. But I'll say one thing; I have never felt the amazement I did when I leaned back and looked at the first one when I finished. It truly is a beautiful process, and oh so much fun to do! Gene, if I can pick your brain for one more thing, what type of brushes do you use, and how much hair loss is acceptable?
 

Gene_Laughter

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New brushes shed far more than they do after some use. Most will shed some. I normally wait a day to clean off the hairs. Then they'll usually float off if the bromoil is placed in water. If not, they're easy to coax off with a water color brush. I mainly use 1" round boars hair basting brushes from Williams-Sonoma. Many prefer to trim these to a stag foot shape. I use 'em untrimmed, as they come from the store. Not sure that Williams-Sonoma still carries these brushes as they are not on their web site. My local Williams-Sonoma still has these, however. They sell for about $10.00. My friend, Maija McDougal, Pres. of the Bromoil Circle of Great Britain, prefers inexpensive shaving brushes which she trims with scissors. Home Depot has a Ralph Lauren faux finishing brush. It's stag foot and about $12.00. It's fine for bromoil. My manual, Bromoil 101, devotes several pages to brushes. Don't mean to spam. Got it?

Cheers,
Gene
 
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Jerevan

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Paul, why don't you show us some of your work? And as always, Gene, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

By the way, do a google search for Joy Goldkinds bromoils. Great stuff indeed.

EDIT: Just saw your bromoil in the gallery. Sweet...
 
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Gene_Laughter

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BTW, Joy's use of hard brayers is not the method that I use. Essentially my bromoils are produced with brushes only. Occasionly I will use a soft foam decorator's brayer to even out the inking. Bromoil is a different strokes for different folks process. Anything that works goes!
 

36cm2

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Very very cool.
 
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Jerevan

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Charbonnel black ink, I think, has been mentioned once or twice in the threads about bromoil. In the older literature, there are instructions to make your own ink, but that may be a bit overdoing it, I suppose.

EDIT: Can be found here, http://www.ibwahlstrom.se/epages/IBWAHLSTROM.sf for example.
 
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Perry Way

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kompressor said:
The only thing i now struggle with is INK. I live in the high-tech country Norway, where nobody sells or use ink any more. It seems like its totaly gone. Any brand name i can search for on google? Please help
Click to expand...

Bostick-Sullivan carry a number of them. See this link:
http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/cart/home.php?cat=41

By the way they are a Sponsor of APUG. It would be nice to send some business their way for their support of this place.
 

Marco B

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Very nice video.

It raised three questions for me though:

- Can I use a regular potassium ferricyanide bleach for the bleaching step, as I already have that from my two bath sepia toner?

- What kind and brand of tape is she using to tape down the matrix onto the glass before inking? I was surprised to see the tape come of so easily without damaging the paper. Is this is a special tape type developed for this purpose?

- I noticed it uses lithographic inks? How do I know if the inks are durable and will withstand time? Many lithographic inks are not designed to withstand time, since they are only used in applications (like newspapers) that do not have a long lifespan. With classic oil paints, there is a classification system for the durability of the color pigment and resistance to fading. Is there a similar system for the inks used in bromoil / lithographic inks?

Marco
 
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