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Jordan

Parliament Square.

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Parliament Square.

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Courtyard

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thefizz

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Hi, I'm heading to Jordan for ten days in March and would love to hear from anyone who has been there.

I will be hiring a car and plan to visit the following places:

Dead Sea
Wadi Mujib
Dana Wildlife Reserve
Petra
Wadi Rum

I'm very active so any suggestions for good hiking, mountain biking, Paragliding or Scuba Diving locations would be great. And of course good places to photograph.

Thanks,
Peter
 
Great place for photography.
The locals are very friendly, even the ones carrying the Kalasnikovs who will gladly pose for you. Cities and villages are very traditionally built and retain the atmosphere of another era. My brother who was the one who visited is an avid trekker and mountain climber and had a wonderful time. He rented the services of a driver and his car who drove them around and acted as a guide and translator, all very cheaply.
You should take care of the police and the army as they can be unpredictable.
There has been some kidnappings in the past, but the kidnapped ones were treated so nice, they wanted to go back and be kidnapped again! It was done by desperate locals that wanted attention by the government to their problems.
Of course my brother and his friend who visited are Greeks, I don't know how they would treat anglophones.

Below are photographs by my brother (at the wedding dance scene, my brother's friend who came along is dancing with the locals).
 
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Thanks for the information Ari. I'm glad you're still here on apug.
Love the first photo.
 
No problem Peter.
As a matter of fact, I lent him my Nikon F90X and "forced" him to use film for his photographs (don't you want those memories to survive?) and he brought some really nice work, that I am quite jealous of. I wish I was with him! It sounded and looked like a fantastic place and I am a sucker for old cultures and friendly people. We discussed the possibility of writing a story for APUG when he got back, but that didn't happen. I remember some details, like the capital having only one hotel and two restaurants and staying at families when visiting villages.
Be prepared for a wonderful adventure!

If you have any further questions, give them to me and I will try to get answers from him ASAP.
 
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Peter,

PM sent separately, but plan to go scuba diving in Aqaba. Next to Ras Muhamad off the Sinai, it's one of the best scuba locations in the world.

Wadi Rum is great for camping, but plan to freeze at night, even in March! But for trekking, it's amazing. Also, if you stay at the Dead Sea for a couple of days, there are some really great treks to do in that area as there is a spectacular gorge that can only be hiked nearby.

Plan to do a day trip to Jerash, too, as it is a beautiful Roman city with great ruins (yes, even if you've been to Italy, it's still worth seeing!).

When you say "hire a car," you might want to consider hiring an English-speaking driver along with it. English is not spoken that much outside the hotels and tourist areas. The cost is reasonable.

As for hotels, PM me. 4 and 5 star hotels will run in the range of 100 - 200 Euros/night and while cheaper ones are out there, the difference can be pretty big for the money saved. All depends on the budget, of course.

Plan on a minimum of two days in Petra. You can hike to your heart's content in Petra and they sell multi-day passes for just a little extra money. One day is around 20 Euros/person and three days is maybe 30, so it's a good deal to stay on. There is so much to see and photograph there that you will want to take the extra time.

Keep in mind that March is ultra peak time for Petra so crowds will be huge. If you get a hotel at the entrance (Movenpick or Petra Palace) you can be at the gate when it opens and get in there to photograph in the soft morning light before the mobs hit. The best shot I made of the Treasury was at 0800 or so and I was all alone there when I made it. Try to get to the Treasury and the Monastery early . . . .

Wadi Musa is a landscape photographer's paradise! You'll need to hire a Bedouin driver with a 4WD to do it, but be sure to hire your own and not get put into a group. Cost a bit more, but you'll have time to stop and photograph and not be rushed all the time. Plan on a full day in Wadi Rum. Also, the Dead Sea has some spectacular salt and stone formations around it (along with hiking in the nearby gorge and, of course, swimming and spa treatments!), so you might want to base yourself there for a couple or three days. Incidentally, Movenpick has a wonderful "village" resort where each room is like a traditional Arab house -- quite charming, but not cheap. My own preference is the Dead Sea Marriott and the price is reasonable.

Don't expect to buy any film in Jordan so take plenty with you. Incidentally, security is quite good (read "high") in Jordan so lead bags for the film are good, carry your cameras with you, be careful where you aim your cameras (NEVER photograph a soldier or policeman without asking first!!), etc.

The Jordanian people are about as friendly as they come. I'm obviously American, had a Palestinian driver, and never got so much as a dirty look from any of the 100s of people I encountered and dealt with during the two weeks or so I was there (over Christmas and New Year's). They are simply wonderful, engaging, delightful people and you need not worry or expect any trouble from anyone. English is widely spoken at a simple level in shops in the cities, but expect to encounter many people who do not. In Aqaba, Petra, and Amman, you will not have any real problems with English, but elsewhere people may be monolingual. A few key phrases in Arabic will go a long way to generating good will for you.

I've been to Jordan many times and never fail to be impressed with the country and the people. It's a wonderful place and your trip there will be quite memorable. Have fun and stay safe!
 
Whow, thanks for all the help Michael. I'll email you tomorrow with some more questions.
 
Go with a driver to the Shuk (market) in Amman. Its like 2,000 years old.

Also go to Mount Nebo. That is he mountain that Moses died on and you can see for miles (into Israel) and the jordan valley.
 
Sorry Ari, didn't see your second post. Thats great, I have lots of sources for information now.
 
With regards to Petra --
An easy entry point is through the Israel/Jordan checkpoint at Elat.
You cannot take your rental through, however.

Its strange to walk between the Israeli and Jordan checkpoints -- surrounded with a minefield. Once through the Jordan customs, hire a taxi 1/4 mile further at the turnaround, which will take you into Al'Aqabah. Have the driver take you to the taxi station downtown -- hire a taxi to take you to Petra. As the taxi pulls away, note the machine gun towers on the Jordan side, and ask yourself why the guards are pointed inwards towards Jordan....

The highway north is full of heavy truck traffic. Watch for the sandstone hills on both sides of the highway, and the black bedoin tents in the distance (you can arrange a stay overnight, in advance, through some of the tourist arrangements).

As the driver drops you off, negotiate a time for pickup on the following date - they will be there.
Once at Petra, stay in the Movenpick. Extremely nice quarters, and right at the entrance to the park.
Be certain to purchase some bottled water to take with you into the park.

Enter at the opening time and hire a pony-cart to take you as far as the Treasury. While going down the Siq be certain to look closely -- note the two water channels carved by the Nabataeans. On the left hand side as you go down, if you look carefully, you will see several friezes carved into the sandstone over the channel. The best is the caravan of camels. Alas the rocks filling the canyon (now removed) carried away the legs of the camels and men.

Once at the treasury, go right past many tombs until it opens up to a roman amplitheatre (carved into the tombs). Passing the Roman city, go to the base of the canyon to hire a donkey ride to the Montesary. Its a very very steep path. You can climb the rear of the hill for an image of the big urn on top (locals aways thought these were filled with magical treasure - so you will see a few bullet holes in each one)

Once you return, be certain to climb the south wall betweent the treasury and the Roman city - it leads to a spectacular altar site on top of the plateau (called "the High Place at El Kubtha). (don't wear flat soled shoes -- a business associate tried the steps in his black loafers and had difficulty on the steep sandstone steps goin up.

Don't be the last one out in the evening. On my last trip, it was a moonlight walk up the Siq with several locals following furtively behind (we had been warned to watch for evening thieves by the hotel management.)

Also in Jordan are several spectacular Crusader-era forts -- Kerak is the best of the Crusadar castles in Jordan. On the opposing side, Ajlun castle is superb for 1200 era - Saladin used this as the base to drive the Crusaders out of the Holy Land in 1189.

No matter what - you will find the people to be extremely friendly.

What ever you do, DON'T give them a thumbs up or attempt to hitchhike with a thumb gesture (you'll see them pointing a finger to the ground instead). Its a western-world third finger salute you will give them if you do this....

Have fun. Remember that in Jordan, the clock does not move for the locals like it does for westerners. Its very relaxed.
 
Don,

Good advice, but I would NOT go through Israel if you plan on going through other Arab airports on that same passport (e.g., Dubai on Emirates) in the months/years ahead. While you can ask the Israelis to put the visa stamp on a separate piece of paper, they do not always do it, and even if they do, the Jordanian border crossing will show where you've been. As for the guns pointing in toward Jordan, they're there to protect Israel from infiltrators. :smile:

I would fly straight into Amman. From there, it's very easy to visit Jerash and the drive to the Dead Sea (Mt. Nebo is on the way, as is Madaba with the old Greek mosaics) is only 90 minutes. From the Dead Sea, you can drive to Kerak Castle and then to Petra and see a lot of nice scenery along the way. From Petra, it's another easy drive to Aqaba, which is quite nice and good for scuba diving.

It's a great trip any way you do it and you'll have a very positive experience. The Jordanians are about as friendly as they come, they'll go out of their way to help you with anything, and there is virtually no crime to speak of. Have a great trip and post some photos here for the rest of us to see! :smile:
 
Regular visitors on business to Israel have two passports, as I do.
One for the Israeli/Jordan stamps and one for the Arab countries
A bigger problem that visiting Arab countries with an Israeli stamp is going to Israel with Syria, Lebanon or Iranian stamps...you may not get into the country. And if you do, plan on spending endless hours getting hassled at the exit.

Yes the guns are there to protect israel...but at the Elat crossing, they are manned by Jordanians, on the Jordanian side, and the towers are facing east, not towards Israel!
 
Going on Friday 21st March, just one week to go :smile:

I'll be sure to let you all know how it goes. I'm going to need an extra bag just for the amount of film I'm bringing :D
 
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I am off on the 5th of April. I have decided to try medium format as I have a tilt shift lens for that camera. which means 2-120 rolls for every 35mm I would have taken. many many roills! I know you will likely be busy after you get back but if you can post any really good tips that would be nice.
Regards
Bill
 
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